Fusebox on a 70

[Sendero]

Just a quick one since I will not be driving my 70 to Carlisle this year. 

An oddity with a blower motor not working just as I was about to charge the A/C for the trip. Blower Motor jumped fine via battery. 
Fuse was good  - replaced anyway...started noticing some other oddities as I was troubleshooting the power feed to the blower motor from under the dash.  I had good voltage from the fuse box through the fuse to the black wire that was the feed to the blower motor circuitry yet I had 0 voltage down stream to the blower switch and resistor. Then the radio went out and then later back on. Then the glove box light went off and then on..  all while I was double checking the fuses with a multimeter. So I moved the box with my hand a bit and saw the same anomalies. I pulled the fuse box and found this.



The main battery feed connection just fell off. The battery feed wire insulation is melted and its connector rusted. As you can see, the fuse box's connector for the battery feed is similarly rusted. The instrument feed ( TAN feed)  got damaged by the heat a small bit but its Orange output wire was also melted and deeply corroded.

I also love the pink wire ganged connections - they extend WAY past the protection of the box. I assume the ganged connections is stock for these cars but  Are these ganged connections considered a splice in the wiring diagram ?

Guess it is time for a YO wiring harness now.

[A383Wing]

if the rest of the wiring is good, why not just repair that burnt & rusty wire end?

Bryan

[macca3441]

WOW!!
You're willing to replace the harness just because of a hotspot in the fuse box??
I mean, each to their own, and you do whatever you wish, but if that was me, I'd be repairing it.
Just my thoughts and opinions,

Wade

[Sendero]

Wiring that is near 45 years old and has 2 corroded/melted main leads, it is safe to assume that problems exists elsewhere in the harness. Call me extra cautious but when you see a buddies 73 charger go up in smoke ( sporting a new paint job no less), you appreciate wiring risks.

A quick fix may get me to Carlisle but also may leave me stranded on a 100+ degree concrete highway with a smoking dash. And while most take that risk ( including me) with every trip with these older cars, doing so with knowledge of likely problems is something else. I will certainly do a spot fix, but won't be traveling far - only local shows. I will be heading to the one 10 mintues away.

Back to the original problem that led me to the fuse box problem. The fact that the voltage is good at the lead wire to the box, from the fuse to the load side of the the single connector yet the voltage is non existent at the blower switch and downstream resistors, means I do have problems elsewhere in the harness. There is nothing in between but a harness wrapped in tape.

If I find that the blower problem is not wiring related, I may reconsider my options.

[b5blue]

Run a TEMPORARY feed replacing the main and test first. Mains can melt insulators inside the harness and cross feed anything they are now touching. Test the isolated main feed for continuity to ANYTHING else. 

[Sendero]

Well, not what I expected but cautioned payed off today. Drove to a local show, on the way back about a half mile from home I noticed some smoke..but not from under the dash but the rear. Got to my garage ok but the rear right was smoking hot. Later pulled the drum. A spring went.  Got me some gremlins.