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Making wiper pivots serviceable.

Started by 440, June 25, 2012, 08:22:28 AM

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440

Here are my wiper pivots being restored. I read a thread from Shakey using heat shrink and thought I could improve on it, so here's what I did.

Here is the thread from Shakey http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,17700.0.html

I originally wanted to drill the hole in the middle so the grease would distribute evenly but when installed in the car you couldn't service it without removing the pivots. I chose to drill it just below the mounting flange so you don't need to remove them.

I drilled the hole with a 2.5mm drill bit. Make sure you go slow so you can feel when your about to break through. Of course it probably doesn't matter if you drill into the shaft but I'd still try not to.

I followed it up by a 5-40 bottoming/plug tap. Don't tap the entire hole, just enough to sink the set screw flush with the body. The taper will also tighten on the set screw and hold it snug.

The set screws are 5-40 thread and use a 1/16" Allen key. Just use a syringe to inject some grease into the pivot till you see it start to come out the top and bottom bushing.

Pardon the crappy pictures as the light was terrible and my phone couldn't zoom into the detail.

I am probably going to paint the steel arms a bit darker as the paint in the can was lighter than the cap.

tylerk

Thank yuns kindly for this!
Fixing to do it myself.  :cheers:

resq302

I just got the seal kit from Schumacher and installed the zerk fittings after drilling and tapping out the shaft housing.  Now I can grease them whenever I want, not that I use them that much!
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

440

Wouldn't normal sized zerk fittings be pretty bulky?

resq302

Don't know.  I used the ones that came in the kit and fit flush to the housing just with the nut part to insall it and the nipple that clicks onto the grease gun exposed.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Patronus

'73 Cuda 340 5spd RMS
'69 Charger 383 "Luci"
'08 CRF 450r
'12.5 450SX FE

bull

Quote from: resq302 on July 01, 2012, 07:28:28 PM
I just got the seal kit from Schumacher and installed the zerk fittings after drilling and tapping out the shaft housing.  Now I can grease them whenever I want, not that I use them that much!

Yea, the procedure in this thread is pretty much identical to the instructions that come with the rebuild kit. But those use the press-in grease fittings and you also get all the gaskets and seals.

440

I already had all of the seals and caulk. I've heard of putting zerk fittings in instead but they are bulky and fancy getting to them when the dash is in the car.

tylerk

Are the pivot ends supposed to move freely? Mine are not giving at all and I wasn't sure just how much torque to put on them. If they are supposed to move...  :shruggy:

y3chargerrt


tylerk

Will injecting the grease fix that, or should I look into another problem?

440

I would soak them in a penetrating oil to try and free them up. Mine were somewhat stiff but still moved due to old grease. The tolerances between the wiper shaft and the housing were a bit tighter then I had expected. You should be able to free them up. Someone told me they may still be available new.