Advice on buying car already restored

[preid]

Hi everyone,
Just recently joined so let me first introduce myself. 

Had an all original '68 charger w/ 383 when I was 15 years old, paid $850 for it, don't even want to think what it would be worth had I kept it.  Now, that I'm much older, I want to get my dream car back. 

While I'd love to take on the challenge of restoring one of these beauties, I don't have the time w/ my work schedule and 3 small kids.  The wife just gave me the green light to buy one already restored so here is what I need advice on. 

Not looking for #s matching but want a real nice driver,  looking for a recently restored 2nd generation charger, 440 R/T, I know these are expensive and few and far between.  Thats my issue.  The ones I've seen on line are scattered across the country and while pictures are nice, they don't tell enough about how well the car was restored.  I'm looking for a way to ensure I'm buying a quality restoration and not a car that was recently flipped. 

My question is what advice can you give me towards going about checking a car out thats half way across the country?  What I've come up with so far is the following:

1.  Have the seller send me pictures of receipts / documentation on what was done during the restore / engine rebuild sheets (more specific?)
2.  If his documentation is convincing, take a trip out there to check the car out.
3.  Set up an appointment (ahead of time) to take the  car to a local garage that works on muscle cars (may be hard to find) to put the car up on the rack, remove valve covers, etc.  Would love to get advice on what all to check out.
4.  If all checks out, I'm good to go (hopefully).

Would appreciate any advice you have on what would be a smart way about going about doing what I've described above to ensure I get a nice, high quality restoration that will last.   

[Ghoste]

You might have a hard time finding a seller who is willing to let you take the car to a garage and start opening it up.  Then again maybe not.

[hawkeye]

the problem is, there are so few of them around,  you are going haft to deal with it on a case by case basis.  they can show you all the documentation in the world and if the work was done by harry halfass it won't do you much good.  i always like to talk at length with the owner, you can tell in a hurry if they are blowing smoke up your skirt.  i would avoid dealers and people who just flip cars.  crawl around under the car and if you see anything other than a little surface rust, walk away. take a magnet and check for bondo.  the mechanics are just details, the body work can eat you alive.   be prepared to pull the trigger-- if it truely is a good deal, it won't last long.  if you are just looking for a good driver and something to take to local car shows maybe a clone would work.  1/2 the price and 99% of the people looking at it couldn't tell the difference anyway. hawkeye

[DC_1]

If I was to ever sell my car and you called and said you wanted to bring it to a mechanic to pull valve covers and go through the thing with a fine tooth comb I would say, I pass. Not because I am hiding anything or the quality of workmanship is bad but because it's too much hassle. I would hope who ever I sold my car to would come out and know what he was looking at, or have someone with him that does. A good visual inspection and crawling around the car will quickly tell you what you have. You just need to look past the shiny paint! 

[DixieRestoParts]

Something else to consider is finding a local Mopar expert to help you. Not sure what your level of expertise is, but maybe a local Mopar club has a few guys that know their stuff and wouldn't mind visiting a potential car for sale with you. Based on their assessment, you can make a choice. Obviously, you will have to be clear on your expectations of what you're looking for and what's acceptable and not quality wise. Additionally, I'd say try to find something relatively local. It's much easier to personally inspect, and I think you'll find even an honest seller may have a different interpretation of quality than you. You'll get burned out quickly flying around looking at various cars. Hope that helps some. Good luck !

It's fun to look !!

Randy

[Ghoste]

On that note, there is a pretty good network right here on this site.

[bill440rt]

Welcome to DC.com! 

My advice is NEVER purchase a car sight unseen! 
I've heard too many horror stories vs success stories.

If you are unable to travel to look at a car personally, then I would look into a neutral 3rd party classic car inspection service. A buddy of mine used one when he purchased a car located out in NM, he is from NJ. He got a VERY detailed inspection report, numerous pages long complete with photos & detailing any "trouble" areas. He bought the car that way sight unseen, & was thrilled with both the car & the inspection services. There were basically no surprises.

[41husk]

I would agree that most people are not going to let you start opening things up, but then on the other hand when I sold my 68 I jumped through many hoops.  I went as far as to pull bucket seats and pull the carpet back so the guy could see there was no rust on the floor boards.  I thought after many request to just tell him forget it and look for another buyer, but I had to sell or I would not have been able to get the Daytona.  If the guy is in a must sell situation, you might be surprised at what he would agree to do

[triple_green]

I'll second this. Never buy a car sight unseen. Either by you or a professional. But I would reccomend you.....

[Homerr]

I agree with the above.   The more removed you are from the sale personally I would suggest to lower your expectations accordingly.  Not that you'll be buying junk, but if you want a 100% show car and it shows up with a few rock chips in the paint it might be an ego crusher for some.

Also, it may be helpful to have some contingency funds available in case something needs attention.  And some smaller items/imperfections that can be addressed in a weekend might be part of the fun.  Good luck!

[stripedelete]

When I buy out of state or long distance, I evaluate the vehicle through photos and questioning (and if I have a friend/family in the area to take a peek - great).  Then I make an offer contingent on my inspection.  I let the seller know I'm buying a round trip ticket and if it is what I think it is, I will hand him the cash, and if it's not, I'm back to the airport, no harm no foul, and no further negotiations.  This way I see it in person and the seller does not feel that he has negotiating leverage since I travelled so far ($$).    
 
Are you going to burn a couple of flights this way? Sure.  But, it's spillage compared to what you are going to spend.

[skip68]

The best inspector is going to be somebody that knows these cars specifically and has built one.   Lots of guys here on this site all over the country.   If you find a car post a thread asking if someone is close to it and can check it out.   Welcome to the site.   

[AKcharger]

Good advice on using a local club or site member for assitance, and 2nd on Body/frame, the body is EVERYTHING!!!!

[RTDaddy]

Agreeing with several above:  1. DO NOT BUY SIGHT UNSEEN! I personally know of 3 horror stories along this line.  If you don't know cars, get someone who does to go with you. 2. If you go to look at something, or go to a show/event, have cash in hand.  As others have said, if it is a real deal it will not last long, and "money talks."
3.  Look at the "clone" alternative closely.  If "# match" is not that important to you, get a nice 318 car (probably has not been abused) that drives, and accumulate the parts you want to make it what you want, then "just do it."  That way you have what you want, and you know what is in the car, and it will cost less over th elong run as you are driving the car and are not in th e"gotta have it" mode.  Good luck, and if you need assistance on Chargers near central Va., drop a line.

"IF YOU'RE UNDER CONTROL, YOU AIN'T GOING FAST ENOUGH."

[bull]

I'd be more inclined to buy one that was restored by a reputible shop if possible. Let their reputation be your guide. Probably more expensive that way but the insurance would be invaluable.

[tan top]

  hello & welcome 

[Mike DC]

 
Another vote to forget the engine and worry about the body.  Rust kills these cars more than anything else. 

If the engine or tranny turns out to be in trouble, that's frustrating, but you can usually get things fixed or replaced for a couple thousand.  But if you get burned on the condition of the sheetmetal then you will be wishing it was only a few thousand. 

[preid]

Thanks, everyone, for your responses - all good advice!  I'll keep you posted and send pics as I get closer to my goal. 

[hatersaurusrex]

Another vote to forget the engine and worry about the body.  Rust kills these cars more than anything else. 

If the engine or tranny turns out to be in trouble, that's frustrating, but you can usually get things fixed or replaced for a couple thousand.  But if you get burned on the condition of the sheetmetal then you will be wishing it was only a few thousand. 

I can attest to this personally.  Just dropped a few thousand (more) on sheetmetal I didn't think I'd have to replace, because it actually looked OK on initital inspection.