Overheating Tips

[taxspeaker]

Well

After 2 years of fighting continuous overheating problems getting worse to the point the R/T (clone) was not drivable we finally have the issues cured. Here is some guidance for anyone else.

We are running a crate hemi, with a chrome 60 amp alternator and TTI headers so lots of heat from the very beginning.

We started by replacing the original cast iron water pump housing with an aluminum after market housing and aluminum pump, along with a chrome thermostat housing. The car soon started running even hotter and leaking everywhere.

Step 1-we ordered a special radiator and dual electric fan system. It helped but still pegged the temp gauge.
Step 2-we determined that the aluminum water pump housing flexed at the thermostat neck when really hot and did not flow well and went back to the original cast iron housing.
Step 3-We determined that the chrome thermostat housing also flexed when really hot and went back to the cast iron thermostat housing, thus stopping the leaks and also probably helping overall cooling by removing any air from the cooling system. Still overheating
Step 4-After reading lots and lots of posts on overheating on this site we ordered and installed the Milodon high volume aluminum water pump from Mancini Racing. Still overheating
Step 5-Replaced temp sending unit twice-still overheating. Tested voltage at sending unit-ok
Step 6-Because we had originally had so many problems with the crate engine 3 years ago when we bought it, we narrowed the problem down to bad gauge or blockage in 1 or 2 heads or block.
Step 7-Because we weren't going to tear the GD engine out (again!) bought one of those laser temp guns for $30 at Home Depot
Step 8-Ran the laser thing and determined that gauge was reading 20-25 degrees too high! The best news in a long time
Step 9-Replaced gauge. While we were at it we also upgraded to a new instrument panel printed circuit board from Charger Specialties I think that has a built in regulator good to 60 amps, what with running the 60 amp alternator we thught this would be a good idea
Step 10-Problem solved

Hopefully this helps someone. I believe the original gauge was messed up from voltage fluctuations from the high output alternator that overwhelmed the old printed circuit board. Coincidentally the fuel gauge is also more accurate now. First big test drive will be Tuesday evening after a complete detail from sitting in the garage for 7 months. I am praying for controllable temps, but all the in-garage testing and running looks like all is now fixed.

[MagnumForce]

Hi,
My charger usually runs at like 180-200 with a 340 small block with headers, what is your running at?
I am also pretty sure you can buy some sort of material to wrap the headers in, so they dont give off so much heat.(It kinda looks like crap though)
I also ordered a wrap to put around my starter so it doesnt get heat sink. I dont know if you have that problem but I did.
Thats just my  I hope someone who knows more than me will chime in and help you out

[472 R/T SE]

What's he need help for?   

[1974dodgecharger]

30 dollar solved it....better than a 3k job. 

[FLG]

Glad you solved it!

Dont take offense to this...but your post stands as a perfect example to over-complicating a simple problem and can help others who are having similar issues

Engine was over heating and the first thing you did is change the most expensive part of the cooling system instead of doing the one thing you should have from the get go...making sure the gauge is reading correctly.

Always look at problems from the simplest solution first, the last thing you want to do is waste money on parts and still have the same problem.

[myk]

Cooling system woes can be like that: completely vexing, but once you find the issue you have one of those "why the hell didn't I think of that in the first place" moments...