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Rust Encapsulator ?

Started by 440, June 06, 2012, 02:35:25 AM

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440

Well, my Charger is starting to make some real progress finally. I stripped the firewall right back and was surprised at just how little rust there was, no pinholes etc. I cleaned out the cowl vents and they are solid.

There is a little surface rust in the front bulkhead that I can't get to. I bought some rust converter like POR-15 although it's not suitable for my situation as it requires to be rinsed with water  :eek2:  How would you stop rust and protect from further rust erosion. The next best solution I can think of is rust encapsulator. I'm in Australia and havn't seen any Eastwood products. Any good alternatives? My painter is going to inquire as someone said there is a product that the Rail Road uses. I know this topic comes up all the time but I thought I'd ask again for an alternative to Eastwood.

Thanks in advance.

b5blue

Many are using Rust Bullet. I have been using Rust Encapsulator and it works well.  :scratchchin:

Musicman


440

That looks promising. It must have some sort of dessicant in it

Just wish I had some in hand before I stripped it. Hopefully it won't surface rust too bad in the time it takes to obtain a can.

chaos52

I use phosphoric acid to 'encapsulate' rust on finish work. For other stuff I've used RustOleum Rust Reformer with good results.

440

From my understanding all acids need to be neutralized, which means with some sort of watery solution.




BTW - off topic but the gas pedal bracket was a REAL PAIN is the ass to remove from the firewall with the engine w/headers in the car !!

CDN72SE

I use both, I did the roof of my 72 with the encapsulator (vinyl top going back on) and I used Rust Bullet on the interior, engine bay and inside the trunk, really tough stuff.



1972 Charger SE

440

Well, Rust Bullet doesn't have any dealers interstate and will take a good week to get here  :'(  They said painting Rust Bullet over surface rust wouldn't be a problem but I'd rather not if I can help it. It's also not cheap @ $99 a liter. The lady on the phone was quite nice and spent 10 minutes chatting with me, quite unusual these days.

FLG

Quote from: 440 on June 06, 2012, 02:35:25 AM
Well, my Charger is starting to make some real progress finally. I stripped the firewall right back and was surprised at just how little rust there was, no pinholes etc. I cleaned out the cowl vents and they are solid.

There is a little surface rust in the front bulkhead that I can't get to. I bought some rust converter like POR-15 although it's not suitable for my situation as it requires to be rinsed with water  :eek2:  How would you stop rust and protect from further rust erosion. The next best solution I can think of is rust encapsulator. I'm in Australia and havn't seen any Eastwood products. Any good alternatives? My painter is going to inquire as someone said there is a product that the Rail Road uses. I know this topic comes up all the time but I thought I'd ask again for an alternative to Eastwood.

Thanks in advance.


No where on the por-15 direction sheet, nor any rust encapsulator sheet or rust converter direction sheet does it say to rinse anything with water prior or post application.


Well just re-read it and almost put my foot in my mouth it does...but i glossed over it due to the "smooth" metal surfaces bit, yours is not smooth since its covered in rust.


"APPLICATION PROCEDURES
Surface preparation: Rusted surfaces are best; seasoned metal and
sandblasted surfaces are also good. Surface must be dry and free of
grease, oil, or other foreign substances.
TO COAT SMOOTH METAL SURFACES: First use Marine Clean to
clean and degrease the surface, when clean rinse with water and allow
area to dry. Second spray Metal Ready on surface full strength, keep wet
for 15-20 minutes then rinse with water and allow to completely dry. Use
of “rust converter” products is not recommended as they may affect
bonding of POR-15 to metal. POR-15 likes to adhere to surfaces with
“tooth” rather than smooth, glossy surfaces."





So youll be good to go with por-15 for your rusted areas.

440

It's still a bit sketchy as most of the metal is smooth apart from some minor pitting in a few small areas. It's mainly just surface rust on the bare steel in behind the door hinge bulkhead, which I could spot treat. I'd like to treat the whole thing though. Sanding it with 80 grit might give it the "toothed" texture POR-15 talks about. Rust Bullet appears to be more versatile though