1968 RT Charger Trunk Removal!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[gpnavar]

I have several question and hope that someone can give me some advice and help on disassemly of the trunk in my Charger  and assembly of the new sections. I have started drilling the spot welds out with a spot weld remover seems like an awfully slow way but I'm getting it also I need to know if there are any spotweld in the wheelwells and around the lip where the jack mounts? Also I had to cut the bumper braces out so that I could remove the trunk and I need to know if anyone knows where I can buy a new set of those? Also I cut the trunk locking mechasim loose at the bottom of the trunk and wonder if I'm going to be able to get the new sections in witout removing it? Any information or help that anyone can give me on this project will be greatly appreciated. I look forward to hearing from you soon. Thanks Gary

[Troy]

One thread is plenty...

Drilling the spotwelds is time-consuming but that's the way to do it. The trunk pans fold down along the edges and these "lips" are welded to the trunk extensions and wheelhouses.it may be easier to remove asection of the floor near the edges so you can reach these from the top. You can get the bumper braces at almost every repro distributor. I know Sherman's carries them but I've seen them in lots of places. You can get the new sections of the trunk in under the brace. You can notch the new pans and butt weld it to the old one as long as there's good metal and you haven't already cut that piece out. I should have pics somewhere but it might be some time before I can get them posted.

Troy

[BigBlockSam]

Howdy this place has the bumber braces for $99. thats the cheapest i could find them. other people wanted $200. i think $99 is to much but there well made . mine fit nice. hope this helps. we just finished my trunk. Rene

http://www.chargerspecialties.com/

[69hemi]

I posted a step by step pictorial on my website. Got to www.69hemi.com then to restoration then sheet metal then trunk.  I have found it easier to cut out the metal in the middle leaving the strips that are spot welded to the frame rails.   But dividing it into smaller sections it is easier to get it out.  The wheel wells are indeed welded to the floor and must be cut our also.  Since you will be welding from the inside of the wheel wells to the floor it is easier to use a drill than a cuter for these spots.  Any questions, just e-mail me and I will be happy to help.

[GT]

I agree   with 69hemi.   He has great info on his web site.
It took a buddy and me 8 hours to remove the old one.   We had dual grinders/cutters/etc. running.
It has to be one of nastiest jobs... must be 200+ spot welds.

[smasherofall]

I'm with you there. While removing mine I must of stopped 100 times thinking I was overwelmed with how much work was involved. Turned out great, (I show everybody   )

[Ex President]

Where's the best place to get a "replacement" trunk panel?

[8WHEELER]

The Paddock is where I bought all my sheet metal and had good luck with them

On the other hand I had no luck trying to make the guy ''I was paying big money to restore
my car'' to use spot welds anywhere. He would not do one spot weld on the trunk, lower
quarter ext or the rear valance and corners, he said the liquid metal stuff was better than
welding and would only use it. So anyway I don't have an engine in it yet and the seems in
the trunk are coming apart, I am tying to find a new body man.

Dan

[69hemi]

The best way to attach any metal to older cars is to weld.  If the panels are new and prepared correctly I have seen the panel adhesives work well.  I have also seen an entire glued quarter panel crack at the seam when a guy launched at the dragstrip.

[BigBlockSam]

my guy used seam sealer, like the factory did.