News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

I think I found my pinging problem

Started by Nacho-RT74, June 05, 2012, 10:50:43 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

Nacho-RT74

Since I finally got in hands my equus 3568 ignition lamp:



got to check by myself the timming. Set at 12º the initial at around 800 RPMs, and went up to 3000 RPMs and set the advance on lamp up to get the balancer mark to 0º again and SURPRISE... ign lamp gave me 40º advanced!!!!  :o

now, if I used the 20º degrees gap insert from the MP kit on counterweights setup, HOW I CAN GET 40º TOTAL AT 3000 RPMs!!! ?

can't recall the springs I used at this moment though.

and another question... why I have a jumping ign lamp light more less 2 or 3 degrees +/-
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

b5blue

We covered that in your ECU eating engine topic.... :lol:

Nacho-RT74

I don't think the timing has to do with the ECU eater deal LOL
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

firefighter3931

You need to limit the mechanical advance or retard the base timing to achieve the desired total timing.  :yesnod:

I would shoot for 36* total @ 3000 rpm.  :2thumbs:


Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

68r/t

I have the same timing light and it also  jumps around when you use the dial back feature but is good if you use it on 0 deg setting,  set the light so it on 0 deg and see if it still does it.

charger Downunder

I haven't come across a newer adjustable timing light that does not jump around. I think the lights are set up for four cylinder cars.?
Put a normal timing light on it and i bet it does not jump around.
[/quote]

Nacho-RT74

it has been jumping with several timming lights in all his life, old kind and this one, before rebuilt engine and now. I don't think is a timming light deal.

yes, setting to 0 degrees still jumps

The only moment I never got a jumping timming it was back in 2002 when I rebuilt the engine to original specs, but some years later got it jumping ( was the first time I made the engine, the stroked job is the second time for me ).

I'm searching for a clear dist cap locally to check what is happening internally and checking for phasing ( I got a Rick Ehrenbergs CNC reluctor to set it up right ). They were available some time ago, now it looks harder to find.

whatever, I'm still wondering. If I set the counterweights adjuster using the 20º piece, and had set the initial in 12º HOW I CAN GET 40º AT 3000 RPMS IF IT SHOULD BE 32º ?

I simply don't get it.

at those RPMS the vacuum advance shouldn't have effect ( it was conected )

RON.... I SENT YOU A PM REQUESTING FOR SPARK PLUG WIRES... DID YOU GET IT ?
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Chryco Psycho

yes the vacuum advance can affect the timing , remove the vacuum & test again , the mech should be 12-16 at idle & 36 total , I would leave the vacuum disconnected .

charger Downunder

If vac advance is cutting in at low revs try some heavier springs.
[/quote]

Budnicks

If you have a newer type CEI distributor with an ajdustabe Vacuum advance pot/canister you could turn the allen head adjuster inside the vacuum advance pot/canister, remove the hose to access it thru the nipple, turn clockwise to decrease added timing & counter clockwise to increase ignition timing, "that's if I remember correctly"... If you don't have a newer adjustable vacuum advance, just disconnect & plug the vacuum line & run without it, if it keeps giving you trouble, change the mechanical advance &/or springs or get a distributor with an adjustable vacuum advance canister/pot... I set the air gap @ 0.008" & I set my initial timing at 18* & total with the mech. advance {heavy springs} & vacuum advance all in at 3000rpm at 36*, It works well with my 11:1 479ci alum. head stroker, roller cam & CEI with a MP Chrome box for the street & a MP Gold Race box for at the track, Blaster 2 ciol, not some cheap reproduction stuff, never had an issue ever, even on pump gas...
"fill your library before you fill your garage"   Budnicks

Nacho-RT74

Haynes manual says the same about the vacuum adjust. Its an MP ditributor

Now I have question.... shouldn't the vacuum just work at first moments of the throttle opening and then get to rest position again once the carb is giving all the mixture to the engine from top ?

or for a while I'm giving gas the vacuum port keeps sucking ?

I checked the timing with vacuum unplugged and got around 26º-28º ( is hard make the check alone, giving gas and using the ign lamp at the time on a BB )
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html