alternator discharging

[RamblinMan69]

I replaced the voltage regulator recently on my 69. Now when I'm running normal with nothing on (radio, a/c, lights, etc) the gauge sits right in the middle. If I turn anything on it shows discharge, especially head lights. I have taken car to alternator shop and they tested the alternator and voltage regulator and said they were charging properly. Anybody got any answers or directions?

[W4ATL]

If it is a mechanical alternator it may need adjusting. There are instructions in the service manual on how to do this. An electronic voltage regulator doesn't need adjustment and should be fine (charge when engine RPMs are above idle.)

According to my service manual on a mechanical regulator, there is an adjustment screw for regulated voltage with an access hole on the top of the regulator. You might have to open the regulator. Turning it clockwise increases voltage. Shoot for about 13.6 volts at the battery with the engine revved. That should get you a charge at hwy speeds.

[GOTWING]

I went through a discharge headache when i first got the bird on the road after sitting over 20 years, i also had new alternator,regulator etc. I ended up having some "chewed" wiring back behind the intake. Fixed the wiring has been fine for 7 years so far, i wrapped some newer black spiral wrap around the wiring from the alternator back.

[Cooter]

Wouldn't pay alot of attention to the guage. I'd check with meter when "Discharge" is happening. Find out if the Alternator is in fact charging or not. I can tell you I haven't had the best luck with Chrysler alternators.

[W4ATL]

Great idea on checking the wire. Make sure the Fld connection from the regulator to the Alternator is good. If it is a dual field alternator (2 Field connectors) one must be grounded and the other attached to FLD on the regulator.

[GOTWING]

Also i have had a brand new Napa alternator leave me on the side of the road on the way to O.C. in the past! i was pissed!

[W4ATL]

Yep...me too. Just bought a Powermaster from Summit to replace the one that shorted internally that was from Napa. I'm hoping it will last.

[GOTWING]

I love my old Mopars, but one of the reasons i got a new Challenger was for hasle free performance!

[resq302]

One thing I have found out is that the rebuilt units tend to have the pos stud work loose and then short out directly to the housing which not only could fry the alternator but also fry your wiring and then some.  One thing I have found out that if I can rebuild my alternator, I do it myself, other wise I send it out to a company who has a good rep for rebuilding them.  Im tired of going through the mistakes of other mass companies that do a "spray and pray" for their rebuild.  Specifically A-1 cardone!

[Cooter]

I love my old Mopars, but one of the reasons i got a new Challenger was for hasle free performance!

Until it breaks.....Gotta another buddy on another forum that I tried in vain to tell him NOT to buy a new Charger. Had to have it...He calls me up the other day complaining about how the brakes are screwed up, recalls out the a$$, etc. Dealer was giving him a hard time about warranty. I tried to tell him that on a sports car, the dealer is NOT gonna try and help you warranty anything related to the brakes after the first 12K miles. Kinda like the first 5.0 Mustangs and Warranty T-5 trannies. i bet I installed 75 before Ford finally caught up with the times and stopped warrantying trannies before looking inside for signs of abuse.

[c00nhunterjoe]

I just converted my car to a gm si series alternatr. I was eating the factory alternators. If I didn't blow the back out of them then they were full fielding themselves and charging at 16 volts all the time.  The conversion was quick and easy to wire, internally regulated, hassle free. So far I'm happy. It has a lifetime warenty so if it goes up, no worries.  A 63 amp from advance was 40 bucks, an 78 amp was 80 bucks.

[RamblinMan69]

Thanks for the infor folks. I drove it quite a while last night with gauge showing discharge all the time, but all lights and gauges appeared to be well lighted and it cranked up every time. Maybe, I should drive it till it stops charging at all. I like the idea about converting to the newer style alternator.

[Nacho-RT74]

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,33574.0.html

[resq302]

I have to say that with my charger, even with the blinkers or 4 ways are one, the ammeter needle bounces back and forth quite a bit.  However, with the accessories such as headlights and fan and whatever off, the needle stays pretty much at dead zero unless there was a significant draw on the system which would show it in either charge or discharge mode.

Like others have said, just check the battery and see what the charge is at the battery when the car is idling at curb idle and what it would be at fast idle so you get an idea of what the alternator is putting out a varying rpms to see if it is indeed charging or not.  I would also check the two idles with and without the lights on to see what the difference is too.

[W4ATL]

Thanks for the infor folks. I drove it quite a while last night with gauge showing discharge all the time, but all lights and gauges appeared to be well lighted and it cranked up every time. Maybe, I should drive it till it stops charging at all. I like the idea about converting to the newer style alternator.

That discharge reading still concerns me. You need to check the voltage at the battery with the engine revved a bit above idle. You should be in the 14 volt area. If so, all is well and your ammeter is reading weird. If you read more like 12.5 volts, then you are not charging for some reason and you need to find out why.

[b5blue]

Check the battery voltage. It should be 13.5 minimum.