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extreamly frustrated.... car wont restart when warm

Started by Khyron, May 17, 2012, 04:51:58 PM

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Khyron

OK, i have been chasing this problem for awhile now, and I need help.

When cold the charger runs great, no problems, no hesitation, well starting last year the car would not crank or crank hard when it was running for awhile, after sitting for about an hour it would start right up, we first thought it was the timing, checked the timing, checked the voltage during start, everything seemed fine. replaced the springs in the starter thinking it wasn't advancing right, same problem.

I figured the started was getting heat soaked, so I installed a small dodge Dakota starter and wrapped the headers, same problem.

figured the headers where crap, bough ceramic coated TTI, AND wrapped them, same problem. I just installed another new distributor, same thing...

I'm freaking lost.


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Khyron

ohhh, she's set at 32 degree advanced. She used to be extreamly happy there!


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ChgrSteve67


Khyron

a whoit whatit? it's a holley 850 mechanical. it's a very hard crank, not a fuel issue.


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c00nhunterjoe

Boiling the fuel wuldnt cause a no crank concern, just a crank-no start.  I'm wondering if the carb is leaking fuel into the engine causeing a hydrolock.

BigBlockSam

I won't be wronged, I wont be Insulted and I wont be laid a hand on. I don't do these things to others, and I require the same from them.

  [IMG]http://i45.tinypic.com/347b5v5.jpg[/img

Khyron

checked the power to the starter, not running, she sits at 11.64 , so she's getting voltage... while running, she's at 16+ Just bought a 100 amp alt also.


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terrible one

I'm thinkin you just have too much initial timing. I experienced the same symptoms, felt like the motor had gained compression or something, the starter would have a hard time and was way slower than usual once the engine was up to temp. I just turned the distributor back a hair (CCW I think) and it was a night and day difference.

Khyron

I've played with the timing several times, but I can try again.


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Memphis Mopar

Khyron this is a total shot in the dark because I am a orange juice maker "Tropicana OJ" and not a mechanic. But I had a similar problem.  When firing up my car cold it would run and start great. After running the car for 15 to 20 minutes then shutting off the car it was hell trying to get it started back up. When it cooled down the car would fire back up with no problems.The culprit was a worn spot in my "hot wire" from my battery terminal to my starter.

c00nhunterjoe

Hang on, back up..... 11 volts at the starter is not good. Neither is 16+ running. You have electrical problems.

Dodgecharger74

check batter voltage while cranking should not drop below 10.5 to 11 volts may be bad battery
74 charger se
82 dodge PU fleetside short box 440
05 magnum 5.7 Hemi
04 rumble bee hemi

440

Quote from: c00nhunterjoe on May 17, 2012, 06:42:06 PM
Hang on, back up..... 11 volts at the starter is not good. Neither is 16+ running. You have electrical problems.

:iagree: Is the battery somewhat swollen from over charging? Sounds like the voltage regulator might be shot thus over charging and killed the battery. 11.6 isn't too bad but 16v would kill the amp meter unless it's bypassed.

Back N Black

Have you checked Battery? take it to NAPA and do a load test. I'm thinking 16 volts has fried the battery.  :Twocents:

ChgrSteve67

Sorry I thought he was having trouble starting when hot not having trouble cranking the motor over when hot. My bad.

What battery are you using and what is the CCA?
I use a group 27 battery with 850 or more CCA

Sounds like your battety is ready for retirement.
How old is it?

My 2 cents is, Replace the battery then test the charging system.

Musicman

As a few others have said... 11 volts under no load conditions is unacceptable :eek2:

Khyron

hmm, battery seemed fine, and I did change it last year, and again, I did just replace the alternator. I will do the tests as requested. maybe the fields on the alt aren't working right? It did this with the old alternator AND the new one.


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Khyron

I'll buy a new voltage regulator and run more tests... and have the battery tested and replaced as needed.


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MSRacing89

Quote from: Khyron on May 17, 2012, 04:52:43 PM
ohhh, she's set at 32 degree advanced. She used to be extreamly happy there!

You are not locked at 32ยบ are you?
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/features/1203phr_1968_dodge_charger/index.html

'68 Charger 440, 11:1, ported Stealth Heads, Lunati voodoo 60304, 3.23 gear, Mulit-port EZ-EFI, Gear Vendors OD and Tallon Hydroboost.

Khyron

no, she was at 36... i rolled it back when i started having this issue


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c00nhunterjoe

He means is your distributor stuck at 32 degrees. Is your advance working properly?

Khyron



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redmist

JUNKTRAVELER: all I've seen in this thread is a bunch of bullies and 3 guys that actually give a crap.

Khyron



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resq302

We had a similar issue with our 70 el camino.  It turned out to be the starter solenoid.  You might want to compare what your readings during a cold start vs. during a hot start and see what the differences are.  Chances are, you might be getting a solenoid heating up which is drawing more current and not causing it to deliver enough voltage to the starter to turn it over fast enough.  OR..... it could be the engine compartments temp is causing a battery that is starting to fail have a cell warp which is causing the drain on the battery when warm but not when it is cold.

Just some thoughts.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto