Paint lower doors or not?

[440]

I'm debating whether to paint my lower doors now or not. It's not the end of the world if they don't get painted interior color right away but it's something I'd eventually like to do. It's not really an expense I want at the moment but due to the doors being half stripped (glass still installed) now is the perfect time. It is an orange 69 and has a saddle interior.

Also, does anyone sell a pre cut moisture barrier or should I just cut my own?

[bill440rt]

If the doors are apart now is the time to do them. Much easier than taking them all apart again to do it later. You could spray bomb it, wouldn't be too much of an expense then.

The do sell the vapor barriers repro now, I simply made some out of heavy plastic sheeting (Home Depot, hardware store, etc). Also picked up the strip-caulking (aka "dum-dum") used to apply the stuff.

[440]

Removing the barrier and caulking after to work on a door is a real pain in the ass. Spray bombs are cheap but don't think the paint is as durable. I guess I should stop making excuses, fork out the dough and do it right, much to the disgust of the painter

Is the lower door weather stripping easy to remove and reuse? I've read a few posts but the clip orientation seems to cause some confusion. Some say to try and stretch it as you go but the FSM says otherwise.... Any tips ?

[bill440rt]

The clips have a little angled "V" shape that goes thru the hole. I've had success removing it by inserting a tiny, flat blade screwdriver & just prying the clip enough to get it out. Once you do one, you'll see what I mean and the others should come out easily. Unless, they are brittle from age & break. Or, with the trim panel off you can do it from the inside of the door. Most of the time the clips are oriented the same way so once you start the first clip you can just work your way around the door.

Door frame paint is up to you. I've got a car with door frames painted in black Krylon & it's held up fine for well over 15 years. The door insides aren't really exposed to weather or road debris, just gotta be careful not to scuff it with your shoes getting in & out of the car.

[440]

Thanks, I'll check it out tomorrow.

I gotta learn when to stop, one thing keeps leading to another and pretty soon the whole car will be in pieces.

Lastly, what gloss level do the bottom of the doors get, satin?

[bill440rt]

It's not just the bottom of the door that gets interior color, it's the entire inside perimeter (inside of the weatherstrip holes).
Here's a shot of one in process.

Paint sheen should not be satin (dull), it should be on the gloss side. A rattle can gloss paint should give you a correct looking sheen. As a contrast, auto urethane or enamel out of a spray gun might be too shiny, at least for an OE look.

[440]

Hmm, the paint break lines I've seen differ. Not that it matters for absolute correctness  but I'd like to keep it somewhat correct. You can see tiny bits of orange poking through between the upper door pad and dash pad. I've already spent way more on this car than I had ever hoped so the end result better be worth it.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,18543.0.html

[Dino]

As Bill mentioned, everything inside of the weatherstrip border should be a glossy color but with saddle I'd try to match the sheen to the door panels so more of a satin sheen.

[440]

That's exactly why I thought satin. I should go look at more photos to get a better idea.

[440]

Well, I must say pulling the clips out was easier then expected. They looked a little bit like a shark fin and all were easy to get to from inside the door except a few in the lower front corner.

Doors are ready to be painted, I decided on the same sheen as the interior as gloss would look out of place IMO.

What do you guys do to protect the inside of the door skin and drain channel against corrosion, fish oil ?

[Dino]

Well, I must say pulling the clips out was easier then expected. They looked a little bit like a shark fin and all were easy to get to from inside the door except a few in the lower front corner.

Doors are ready to be painted, I decided on the same sheen as the interior as gloss would look out of place IMO.

What do you guys do to protect the inside of the door skin and drain channel against corrosion, fish oil ?

Good choice on the satin.  My suggestion is to put a few coats of satin clear over the color.  If you ever hit the door with your shoe and leave a mark it'll be easier to fix.

Fish oil?  Be prepared to drive alone...forever...

What you want is a mix of oil and wax.  I don't know what they use in Australia but the UK equivalent would be dinitrol.  You can mix the stuff yourself or just buy it over the counter.  You also want a special gun for it.  It's pretty much a canister with a long hose so you can reach every nook and cranny.

The stuff doesn't dry for a long time so spray it after you install everything.  You can easily spray around windows and such but installing them after spraying will mean you'll be rubbing half the wax off again.

[440]

I'll have to check it out Dino, there is an automotive fish oil that I've seen which is odor free. Not sure how good it is or not but seems popular. I can see some surface corrosion just starting on the inside and want to nip it before it takes permanent hold. I was quite surprised at how clean the doors were inside, especially for a 43 year old car.

[bill440rt]

Try this for spraying insides of the door seams, lower inner quarters, etc. Sometimes changing the nozzle & using one with a tube (WD-40, brake cleaner nozzle, etc) works well for getting it into tight corners. It's a waxy film that prevents rust.

http://www.eastwood.com/ew-heavy-duty-anti-rust-13-5-oz.html


Not sure if the door should be a dull, satin finish. I would think it would lean slightly more to the gloss side. Perhaps in tan it was.
The door above was painted with a Dupli-color gloss black spray can (very close to stock, it dulls somewhat as it dries). This one below was PPG Omni urethane out of a gun, much glossier than factory.
If you're in doubt, you could always do two test panels. One gloss, one satin.

[440]

   I just found out I have 68 doors as the lock knob is in the wrong spot. I just got new pads at $325 so I'll have to try and modify the door. Will 69 linkage fit in a 68 door or are they different internally?

Damn  


On second thought it's possible it has 69 linkage as I remember the knobs sat at a bit of a reward angle, they may line up better with the hole in the proper spot for a 69  

[bill440rt]

'69/'70 linkages are different, the lock rod is further up as you've seen. There is also a "bellcrank" linkage that bolts to the inside of the door. Even the '68/'69 latches themselves are different.

Best bet is to buy the complete guts from a donor door.

[440]

6" doesn't seem like a lot of space to make up. Personally I like the location of the 68 better but I'm stuck now. More set backs    I guess I'll have to make another trip on my day off and see exactly what I have and need.

Is that the location of the bellcrank in the white door you posted, the bolt at the top of the angled rod inside the door?

[bill440rt]

That's one, and there's another at the back of the door by the latch.

[440]

I assume nobody sells just the linkage repop ?

Thanks for all the info Bill. Hopefully my findings will be positive.

[Charger-Bodie]

Can you swap the pads for a set of 68 ones?

[440]

I would except I'm in Australia and the shipping both ways wouldn't be economical. Even though you can't tell, I had them dyed half a shade darker which Mike probably would't be to happy about.

I swear at least one knob is almost at a 45* angle which would be about right for a 69 linkage in a 68 location. Maybe it's wishful thinking, but I clearly remember I was going to "straighten" it when I assembled the doors. I'll probably check it out Wednesday and then know for sure. Sort of annoying when the car is across town.

Plus the knob being in the right location is probably best to avoid a ribbing from fellow enthusiasts  

[Dino]

IF you need new linkage I'm sure someone here can send you the whole thing for a few bucks.  In case you do have the 68 linkage then simply don't hook it up just yet.  Just put the grommet in the new upper pads and use some painters tape to widen the base of the lock pin so you can stick it in there.  I never use the lock pins, I use the key only.  I snapped my ps pin and the mechanism is not stuck in any way.

[440]

Well, My dilemma isn't made any easier  

One door is a 68 and the other a modified 69 with 68 linkage.

Should I try to find the linkage and convert both doors over to 69, or should I cut my losses and try to sell the new 69 pads to the local seniors center and buy a set of 68 pads?

[Brock Lee]

FWIW- if you have saddle tan interior, you would need to use T3 light bronze to be factory correct.

[440]

Will I need to buy 69 latches too as Bill says they are different or can I still use them ?

Thanks.