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Installing shocks and rear sway bar.

Started by Dino, May 18, 2012, 11:07:56 AM

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Dino

Sinec I was preaching 'plan before you start' in another thread maybe I should listen to my own advice.

Hence this post!  I have new shocks and a sway bar and would like to know exactly what to do before I start.

I have new front and rear Edelbrock IAS classic shocks and I have a rear sway bar.  3/4" I think, came with the car it's still new in the box.  Probably addco, looks like this but I think my bar is gold, not black.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ACO-919/?rtype=10

Anyway for the front I'm just jacking up the car, remove, replace, rinse and repeat.  I don't think there's anything special to be done but please correct me if I'm wrong.

But what about the rear?  Do I remove the shocks and install the bar first?  Do I replace the shock first then do the bar?  I intend to raise the car so the shocks are the same length as the new set so they're as loose as possible.  Is this the way to go?  I have one decent jack and 4 stands, do I need anything else?  Yes the fridge is filled with beer, I'm good there!
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

MSRacing89

I would just get the shocks on the car for now.  With what your build looks like, I do not see a need for a rear sway bar.  Are you running larger front Torsion bars, larger front bar, etc?  If you just throw a rear bar on without thinking about the reasons for doing this, it could actually make the car feel very uneasy and unbalanced.  
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/features/1203phr_1968_dodge_charger/index.html

'68 Charger 440, 11:1, ported Stealth Heads, Lunati voodoo 60304, 3.23 gear, Mulit-port EZ-EFI, Gear Vendors OD and Tallon Hydroboost.

Dino

Quote from: MSRacing89 on May 18, 2012, 11:47:41 AM
I would just get the shocks on the car for now.  With what your build looks like, I do not see a need for a rear sway bar.  Are you running larger front Torsion bars, larger front bar, etc?  If you just throw a rear bar on without thinking about the reasons for doing this, it could actually make the car feel very uneasy and unbalanced.  

I totally forgot to mention that didn't I?  Yes I have a front sway bar.  1 1/8" thick.
I don't know about the torsion bars, the whole thing came out of a 71 squad car so I'll have to find out what size they are.

Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

MSRacing89

The heaviest production torsion bar for that era would have been .920".  So I still think, IMHO, that no rear bar is needed in your case.  I would focus energy elsewhere........I say the beer in the fridge! :cheers:

I run 1.12 bars and all kinds of other suspension mods with a ¾" rear bar........sometimes I still unhook it at competitions depending on the track surface.
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/features/1203phr_1968_dodge_charger/index.html

'68 Charger 440, 11:1, ported Stealth Heads, Lunati voodoo 60304, 3.23 gear, Mulit-port EZ-EFI, Gear Vendors OD and Tallon Hydroboost.

Dino

Quote from: MSRacing89 on May 18, 2012, 12:21:14 PM
The heaviest production torsion bar for that era would have been .920".  So I still think, IMHO, that no rear bar is needed in your case.  I would focus energy elsewhere........I say the beer in the fridge! :cheers:

I run 1.12 bars and all kinds of other suspension mods with a ¾" rear bar........sometimes I still unhook it at competitions depending on the track surface.

Energy focus shifted to beer!  Thanks for setting me straight.   :2thumbs:

How's this sound for a plan:  I'll do all the shocks and see how she behaves.  If later on I do install the sway bar and it's too harsh I'll unbolt it and shelve it.

I probably should get new wheels and tires first as well because no matter what I do, these 14" bicycle tires are one hell of a botlleneck.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

MSRacing89

Yeah, there are so many things you can do before you have to worry about a rear bar.  Tires, wheels, subframe connectors, tubular uppers, lightened motor, tuned/ balanced rear springs, adjustable shocks, bigger brakes, etc,etc.   Its more of a gimic unless you really plan on pushing the car.

These cars already create so much front roll that if you throw a rear bar at it, it can be down right scary unless you balance it out in other areas.  In a iron headed BB configuration, you are probably looking at around 56% front weight........not a likely candidate to introduce oversteer by installing a rear bar.  You will like those IAS's.  I ran them before we went to adjustable Ridetechs.

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/features/1203phr_1968_dodge_charger/index.html

'68 Charger 440, 11:1, ported Stealth Heads, Lunati voodoo 60304, 3.23 gear, Mulit-port EZ-EFI, Gear Vendors OD and Tallon Hydroboost.

Dino

I have to admit, since I'm doing nothing but regular traffic driving I don't think I need beefier anything.  Shocks are old and worn so they have to go, tires look as they would fit better iunder a Fiat 500 and steering is a complete joke so those need to be fixed but with those mods done it may be just fine.

The fastest I go in this car is passing speeds on the highway, everything else is cruising somewhere between 30 and 60.

I'll do frame connectors when I restore it as I want to weld them along the floor boards and that'll be a bit more fun with the body flipped on a rotisserie.

Thanks for all the advice!   :2thumbs:
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.