Hotchkis TVS

[stripe74au]

Hey all. Newbie here to the forum.

I have just finished installing the Hotchkis TVS in my 68 R/T, along with a firm feel box. I cannot believe the difference it has made. It is a totally different car. I didnt put the subframe connectors in as I thought they may be overkill and wanted to see how it would drive first. It drives and handles so solid i probably wont put them in; i might save them and put them in my '69 Roadrunner.

Anyway i do have a problem and was wondering if anyone else has heard of this. I went and got it aligned and final adjustments done and there is a slight "clunking" in the front end when turning the wheel at low speeds or just rolling. The alignment place (very reputable one here) said that it took him ages to find what it was. They said it was the heim joints on the adjustable steering rod kit, and even the upper control arms, binding and releasing as you turn. That is generating the clunking noise. Anyone heard of this or have any suggestions? Looking at other products and it seems that only Hotchkis has this heim joint set-up on their components.

Trying to get in touch with Hotchkis but their email form is down on their site at the moment (i am from australia and cant call them yet)

Any help or insight anyone can offer would be greatly appreciated.

cheers

[thedodgeboys]

 Try getting with them on Facebook.
https://www.facebook.com/hotchkis1?ref=ts

[stripe74au]

sent them an email now, will see what they come back with. was having an issue with the verification on the form and my pc.

[WHITE AND RED 69]

Is the "clunking" noise on every turn or just once and a while? I have the TVS set up on my charger and do not have any clunking or binding while turning. Check the upper control arm where it fits in the spindle, on mine I had to add a washer in between the castle nut and the spindle for it to fit tight. But that might only be needed because I use a later model spindle?

[stripe74au]

I would have to say it is most of the time.

[stripe74au]

*Bump*

Anyone heard of this problem/issue before?

Thanks

[MSRacing89]

I am actually helped/ sponsored by Hotchkis but I purposely do not run the heim jointed tie rod ends and the car see's track and a lot street.  Heim joints take a lot more maintenance and can be a little touchy.  I know from running cirlce track for many years, we were constantly replacing them.  This warning is right in there literature.  All these tie rod units do is correct bump steer.

I run 11/16" tie rods with billet center adjusters.  The downfall is a give up a little bump steer but I run this car at a very high rate of speed whether it is road course or autox and I deal with it just fine.  I believe 100% that in a street car, you will not know the difference.

[stripe74au]

Thanks mate. Yup might have to ditch the heim joint set-up me thinks. Was possibly going to look at Firmfeel tie rods and upper control arms.

Its a pity because the TVS stuff cost me a fortune and now i am having to change components already. Lesson learnt i guess. The rest of the kit is great; sway bars and rear springs. But i didnt put the subframe connectors on as it seemed overkill with everything else i was using. So i thought i would put the connectors on my Roadrunner as the rest of that suspension is stock and could use some help, and i dont particularly want to spend a whole lot of money on it.

Wicked looking Charger by the way. Awe inspiring I would say.

[rooks]

Did you get a response from Hotchkis? Keep trying for an official response before you go spending more money. Their customer service seems to be highly regarded, especially when it comes to compatibility issues. Give them a chance.

If you haven't had a reply, drop e message on their Facebook page alerting them of your contact efforts. Don't air any dirty laundry on the page, that'll just piss people off - simply let them know you're having an issue with the set-up; are located in Australia so phoning isn't ideal with time zone restrictions; you've tried contacting them to no avail and email is your only option.

Hope you get it sorted. I've been eyeing the Hotchkis TVS for a while, and will absolutely be getting one for my '70 Challenger this year. Good luck!

[stripe74au]

Did you get a response from Hotchkis? Keep trying for an official response before you go spending more money. Their customer service seems to be highly regarded, especially when it comes to compatibility issues. Give them a chance.

If you haven't had a reply, drop e message on their Facebook page alerting them of your contact efforts. Don't air any dirty laundry on the page, that'll just piss people off - simply let them know you're having an issue with the set-up; are located in Australia so phoning isn't ideal with time zone restrictions; you've tried contacting them to no avail and email is your only option.

Hope you get it sorted. I've been eyeing the Hotchkis TVS for a while, and will absolutely be getting one for my '70 Challenger this year. Good luck!

yeah still no reply. im not on face book so will try emailing them again through their website.
on our challenger i just put in the hotchkis front and rear sway bar kit, koni adjustable shocks, and firm feel stage 2 box. it is so awesome now. i dont think it would really need the complete TVS kit.

[HPP]

But i didnt put the subframe connectors on as it seemed overkill with everything else i was using.

Actually, I would have done this first before any suspension changes. The connectors beef up the unibody which is the foundation of support for the suspension. While your new suspension system is working great, you body is still flexing and moving around. Connectors can actually help eliminate a lot of the squeaks and rattles that come with a 40 year old car.

[stripe74au]

But i didnt put the subframe connectors on as it seemed overkill with everything else i was using.

Actually, I would have done this first before any suspension changes. The connectors beef up the unibody which is the foundation of support for the suspension. While your new suspension system is working great, you body is still flexing and moving around. Connectors can actually help eliminate a lot of the squeaks and rattles that come with a 40 year old car.

Ok fair point. I didnt do this as i didnt have access to a four post hoist at the time, i used a two poster. Hotchkis recommends isntalling the subframe connectors with weight on all four wheels and at ride height. So i thought i would just do it the other way round by doing the suspension first. Another one to rack up to a learning experience.

[Musicman]

Hotchkis recommends isntalling the subframe connectors with weight on all four wheels and at ride height. So i thought i would just do it the other way round by doing the suspension first.

That is the correct way to do it.

[Kern Dog]

I welded in my frame connectors with the axle on jackstands and the front tires on car ramps. A 4 post/drive on lift would have been SOOOOO much easier!

[HPP]

If your car is together, which yours is, duplicating the on the ground load will help ensure that body panel alignment does not change and that you don't lock in an unusual position. If your car is apart, just make sure everything is square, plumb and level.