trying to pick astroker kit size

[c00nhunterjoe]

I have 3 choices. I have 2 blocks, a 383 and a 400. If I do the 383 I will get the 496 kit. My question regrds the 400 kits. I've read about people that have used the 500 kit but what about the 512? Why not just get the 12 extra cubes for the same price? Also, is there clearancing involved with either of the above 3 coices?

[Chryco Psycho]

what are you using the engine for ??
When you get close to 500" in a B block the pistons get very short , the oil ring goes over the wrist pin & you lose a lot of rod ratio which affects dwell time at the top of the stroke , It becomes more of a Race engine , if you want a long term street engine my advice would be to stay with the 451 / 400 block or 470 ish CI max . Even though the 451 seems small it will make a ton of power & has approx 7 lbs less mass then a 440 engine & will live a long time .
yes there are clearance issues , the 451 is minor , but as you go bigger notching the bottom of the bores is a must & fitting oil pump pick ups can be a challenge

[Cooter]

AGAIN, just because all that crank fits and rotates inside the stock block with a little help from a dremmel tool, doesn't mean it's gonna make power..Well said Chryco.

[c00nhunterjoe]

Its going to be a pump gas (93), street driven cruiser that will see occasional track use. I want low-mid range power. No high rpm screamer. Longevity and reliability is a must. I saw some of the kits showed the oil ring over the wrist pin with the support ring. I do not like that option so any kit that requires the ring over the pin I do not want. 440 source only showed 1 kit with that situation. Which others have the same issue?

I want a reliable 11 second engine. Cam manufacture is undecided. I want to stay at max lift of .550 for valvetrain life. Cam will be solid flat tappet max duration at half of 250. Heads will be out of the box edlebrocks, possible porting but unlikely. I suspect max power will be in by 5500-6000 on a near 500 inch build, limited by the head flow and cam choice. The car has a 4 speed and gear will most likely drop to 3.91's or 3.55's from the current 4.30's.

This will be my 1st stroker build so lots of planning and I'm wide open to constructive critisim. I've read through the prven engine section and have a ball park idea of what the combinations will gross hp and tq wise.

[Scaregrabber]

I think a 470 or 451 would be a lot better choice. "longevity" "street" "11 second" this all points to less stroke, longer pistons.

Sheldon

[Challenger340]

Its going to be a pump gas (93), street driven cruiser that will see occasional track use. I want low-mid range power. No high rpm screamer. Longevity and reliability is a must. I saw some of the kits showed the oil ring over the wrist pin with the support ring. I do not like that option so any kit that requires the ring over the pin I do not want. 440 source only showed 1 kit with that situation. Which others have the same issue?

I want a reliable 11 second engine. Cam manufacture is undecided. I want to stay at max lift of .550 for valvetrain life. Cam will be solid flat tappet max duration at half of 250. Heads will be out of the box edlebrocks, possible porting but unlikely. I suspect max power will be in by 5500-6000 on a near 500 inch build, limited by the head flow and cam choice. The car has a 4 speed and gear will most likely drop to 3.91's or 3.55's from the current 4.30's.

This will be my 1st stroker build so lots of planning and I'm wide open to constructive critisim. I've read through the prven engine section and have a ball park idea of what the combinations will gross hp and tq wise.

More than one way to skin a Cat......
We still build 6 to 8 of the smaller 451/470 Strokers per year at our Shop, but we do things a little " differently" to address many of the concerns listed above...nonetheless...but still 451 or 470 in name only....far too involved to get into here.
That said,
if you are just looking for a "KIT"  type Stroker Rotating Assembly that can be "purchased" from a store that is a no-brainer, pretty tough to beat the 451, very safe. 

[c00nhunterjoe]

Sounds like I'm going to be leaning towards the 451 then.

[mauve66]

an 11 second motor will vary in specs depending on what vehicle its in (weight) and what is behind it putting the power to the pavement (trans/gear)

[c00nhunterjoe]

an 11 second motor will vary in specs depending on what vehicle its in (weight) and what is behind it putting the power to the pavement (trans/gear)

Hence why I said its going in a 69 charger, 4 speed, with a current 4.30 rear that I would like to change to a 3.55 or 3.91.

[Budnicks]

Good luck with consistent 11 second passes with a 4spd, or the trans, clutch, drive shaft or rear axle/gears living very long... Bullet proof professional built manual trans cars break stuff allot, the 3.91:1 gear is a good compromise from the 4.30:1, the 3:55's could handicap you a bunch, it's still a very heavy car that takes allot of HP/TQ to get down the quarter, especially in 11 seconds, it's all about the total car combo not just the engine, the 400 block & 451-470ish combos are great dependable power plants, the 400 block is a little beefier in the main bearing webbing area than the 383 block, if built properly, it's allot more than just buying a stroker kit & clearancing it for a 3.75" 440 crank - 4.15" stroker crank shaft or what ever stroke you end up with, the counter weights need to be turned/mains ground to fit, pistons are more readily available for the 400 block combos also, custom pistons aren't cheap... Good luck do your research, don't go the cheapest stuff out there, you will regret it, in the long run, they really aren't budget builds either, you should consult a quality machine shop familiar with Mopar stroker big block wedges, not just the local yokel, you will also need good ported cylinder heads to flow the added cubic inches, quality valve train components, push-rod proper length & type/style, rockers, shafts, springs, retainers, locks, seals etc., the stock heads are marginal at best, even at only 451 cubes, a good matched induction {well tunned} & better fuel system, larger fuel lines, better cooling, better exhaust, better/hotter ignition, among many other parts too many to list here, just a heads up...

[c00nhunterjoe]

Thecar will spend 99% of the time on the street on standard radials. Track use will be on rare occasions. Consistancy with the stick is not an issue. By consistant 11's I meant a pass with plenty of mph, not an 11.99 car at 112 mph. I'm not bracket racing it, hell, I'm not even "racing" it. Any track time will be for pure giggles.

The gear choice of 391's was to compansate for the weight, as you said. The 3.55's were debated since I would have the stroker's torque working to my advantage, then I could compramise with a much better cruise gear since most of my driving will be cruising to and from shows.

I have a good local machine shop that does quality work and has built many stroker engines. How many were mopars, I'm not sure.  I will use the 400 block.

I know the heads will limit my maximum power. I'm not spending a fortune on porting though. I have a nearly new set of rpm heads that I'm going to use. I will definatly be purchasing quality valvetrain parts.

[Budnicks]

Thecar will spend 99% of the time on the street on standard radials. Track use will be on rare occasions. Consistancy with the stick is not an issue. By consistant 11's I meant a pass with plenty of mph, not an 11.99 car at 112 mph. I'm not bracket racing it, hell, I'm not even "racing" it. Any track time will be for pure giggles.

The gear choice of 391's was to compansate for the weight, as you said. The 3.55's were debated since I would have the stroker's torque working to my advantage, then I could compramise with a much better cruise gear since most of my driving will be cruising to and from shows.

I have a good local machine shop that does quality work and has built many stroker engines. How many were mopars, I'm not sure.  I will use the 400 block.

I know the heads will limit my maximum power. I'm not spending a fortune on porting though. I have a nearly new set of rpm heads that I'm going to use. I will definatly be purchasing quality valvetrain parts.