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Drag Racing my Charger at ZMAX - Charlotte

Started by Sixt8Chrgr, May 04, 2012, 07:02:44 PM

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Sixt8Chrgr

Last week was my first experience drag racing any car at a real drag strip.

My best time last week was 14.27 at 97 miles per hour. I kept the car in gear and left the air cleaner on. I ran four times but the other three times were bad due to the coil leaking oil and pushing the coil wire off the connection which caused bad misfire at high rpms. I did not know what the problem was until after the last run.

THIS WEEK was much better and more fun.
I ran a 13.8 at 102 mph by shifting my self and taking the air cleaner off. My second best time was 14.6 with a perfect .000 reaction time but I spun the tires real bad so that crushed me. Not only did I spin the tires bad I slung an alternator belt which ripped up the power steering belt. My car has factory A/C so I have two alternator belts and one was salvagable. So I limped home....I was temped to run again but if I launched that belt I would have been toast.


Ghoste

Awesome!!  You're hooked now aren't you? :D

Sixt8Chrgr

Yes I am definitely hooked. It is so much fun trying to beat your time with different techniques. I have no idea what I am doing but have learned a little at a time, and having a blast doing it. The lesson from last week was to check all your plug wires/coil before and after you run. After this week make sure all your belts are good and tight before running your engine up to 5800 rpms 4 times in a row.!cVery very fun and what is cool is that there are so many different cars out there. From new BMW M5's to new Mustangs Camaros and of course old school stuff like what we have. Tonight there was a visious 69 Dart and a 67 R/T that were both very tricked out.

cdr

get some sticky dot tires,your mph = around 13.50's
LINK TO MY STORY http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/11/16/ride-shares-charlie-keel-battles-cancer-ms-to-build-brilliant-1968-dodge-charger/  
                                                                                           
68 Charger 512 cid,9.7to1,Hilborn EFI,Home ported 440 source heads,small hyd roller cam,COLD A/C ,,a518 trans,Dana 60 ,4.10 gear,10.93 et,4100lbs on street tires full exhaust daily driver
Charger55 by Charlie Keel, on Flickr

tan top

 :coolgleamA: 

would love to see some pictures of your charger  sometime Dude   :yesnod:  :cheers:
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

Sixt8Chrgr


Sixt8Chrgr

Here is the car
The Orange Motor in the previous picture is NOT the motor. I posted the wrong picture.

c00nhunterjoe

What all is done to the engine trans and rear? Stock tires?  Also, can you post the rest of the time slip?  :drool5:

Sixt8Chrgr

Quote from: c00nhunterjoe on May 05, 2012, 10:52:36 PM
What all is done to the engine trans and rear? Stock tires?  Also, can you post the rest of the time slip?  :drool5:
440 bored .030, 452 heads with three angle valve job. JE pistons, Comp Cam 268 XE, Mopar Performance rockers, stock crank, and rods, Eddy performance rpm intake, Chrysler electronic ignition, chrome box and orange box...have run both. Holley 650 double pumper with some modifications from Blake performance carburation. Stock torque converter, 3.23 rear gears, stock tires, stock 727 floor shift. The car was originally a 383 H code car, so all the 383 suspension is still on it. Oh the factory air is still on it and it works.

The time slips are in the car and the car is at the shop, but I will photo them and post them up.

tan top

Quote from: Sixt8Chrgr on May 05, 2012, 09:52:01 PM
Here is the car
The Orange Motor in the previous picture is NOT the motor. I posted the wrong picture.

:drool5:  awesome looking charger  :yesnod:   :2thumbs:
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

Sixt8Chrgr


Dino

Very cool!   :2thumbs:

I sometimes wonder what my 1/4 time would be with my current setup but I'm too embarrassed to go try.  It has the stock 14" rims and I removed the 3:55 gears and installed 2:96's so I could cruise a bit better...

I wonder if I could do it in under 20 seconds...  :icon_smile_big:
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

Sixt8Chrgr

Time Slips

Sixt8Chrgr


Sixt8Chrgr

Quote from: Sixt8Chrgr on May 25, 2012, 04:33:03 PM
One more

I think that I lifted before the finish line on this one...the slow e/t

404NOTFOUND

Good job. Anytime you hit the thirteens or or the 100 mph mark, your moving.
My 1969 Charger. RIP......Rest in pieces.

Sixt8Chrgr

Thanks!
I am happy with what the car did based on the the 3.23 gears.

Budnicks

That is very respectfull for a heavy car... I know your not asking for how to go faster tips, But "If your hooked, you will want to go quicker & faster".... You can always do a part at a time, kind of piece work, see a slight improvement each time... Some minor tuning is always needed, some easy stuff like, a hotter ignition {like the Chrome CEI box}, some ultra low ohm resistance plug wires, better fuel pump, line & filters, a bigger carb {a 750cfm min. for a 440 either way street or strip is in order anyway}, a K&N filter & Xtreem top or equivalent gauze type filter {will help it breath much better, at the track & on the road, still giving you protection from dirt & dust}, some steeper gears {3.73:1 are a decent compromise, for a street/occasional strip car & still be drivable}, maybe some taller/wider sticky rear tires {or slicks or drag radials, for at the track} & a different looser converter {still be drivable 2500rpm or more will free up the car on the starting line & improve your 60ft times, that is the best place for big ET improvements, in slower cars}, better adj. shocks, the car would drop near a second to second & a half or possibly more off the ET... You could always also take the rear seat out, take the spare tire & jack out, no unnecessary weight in the car that is easily removed, takes no time, to reinstall & will help with power to weight ratio, for quicker ET's & MPH... Good luck have fun, that's what it's all about after all... All the stuff mentioned would only be maybe $1700-$2500 {if you do the work yourself & shop right}, if you really want to go fast some head porting & more camshaft on top of the suggestions above, you will be rock-en & roll-en in no time... Then there is always N20, you can be really fast, if you have the nerve & the proper fuel system requirements....
"fill your library before you fill your garage"   Budnicks

472 R/T SE

Imo, anything quicker than 14 seconds is respectable for our old sleds, especially when you're driving to & from the track.

I've been to the track enough times to know my way around.  I'm consistent as far as the R.T. goes but have never come close to cutting a perfect light.  I know @ the Portland track they hand out some kind of perfect light decal.

Congrats.


Am I reading your signature correct in that you have gold interior?  If so, have any pix?

Sixt8Chrgr

Quote from: Budnicks on May 25, 2012, 11:46:57 PM
That is very respectfull for a heavy car... I know your not asking for how to go faster tips, But "If your hooked, you will want to go quicker & faster".... You can always do a part at a time, kind of piece work, see a slight improvement each time... Some minor tuning is always needed, some easy stuff like, a hotter ignition {like the Chrome CEI box}, some ultra low ohm resistance plug wires, better fuel pump, line & filters, a bigger carb {a 750cfm min. for a 440 either way street or strip is in order anyway}, a K&N filter & Xtreem top or equivalent gauze type filter {will help it breath much better, at the track & on the road, still giving you protection from dirt & dust}, some steeper gears {3.73:1 are a decent compromise, for a street/occasional strip car & still be drivable}, maybe some taller/wider sticky rear tires {or slicks or drag radials, for at the track} & a different looser converter {still be drivable 2500rpm or more will free up the car on the starting line & improve your 60ft times, that is the best place for big ET improvements, in slower cars}, better adj. shocks, the


car would drop near a second to second & a half or possibly more off the ET... You could always also take the rear


seat out, take the spare tire & jack out, no unnecessary weight in the car that is easily removed, takes no time, to

reinstall & will help with power to weight ratio, for quicker ET's & MPH... Good luck have fun, that's what it's all
about after all...
All the stuff mentioned would only be maybe $1700-$2500 {if you do the work yourself &
shop right
}, if you really want to go fast some head porting & more camshaft on top of the suggestions
above, you will be rock-en & roll-en in no time... Then there is always N20, you can be really fast, if you have the
nerve & the proper fuel system requirements....


Thanks for the tips:
I have the chrome box, MSD Blaster High Vibration coil, low resistance plug wires. The carb was special built by Blake Carbureation in Mooresville NC with street/strip in mind. But I have never taken the the spare out or the back seat but will try that next.

Thanks!

Sixt8Chrgr

Quote from: 472 R/T SE on May 26, 2012, 12:38:41 AM
Imo, anything quicker than 14 seconds is respectable for our old sleds, especially when you're driving to & from the track.

I've been to the track enough times to know my way around.  I'm consistent as far as the R.T. goes but have never come close to cutting a perfect light.  I know @ the Portland track they hand out some kind of perfect light decal.

Congrats.


Am I reading your signature correct in that you have gold interior?  If so, have any pix?


Budnicks

Quote from: Sixt8Chrgr on May 27, 2012, 06:53:47 AM
Quote from: Budnicks on May 25, 2012, 11:46:57 PM
That is very respectfull for a heavy car... I know your not asking for how to go faster tips, But "If your hooked, you will want to go quicker & faster".... You can always do a part at a time, kind of piece work, see a slight improvement each time... Some minor tuning is always needed, some easy stuff like, a hotter ignition {like the Chrome CEI box}, some ultra low ohm resistance plug wires, better fuel pump, line & filters, a bigger carb {a 750cfm min. for a 440 either way street or strip is in order anyway}, a K&N filter & Xtreem top or equivalent gauze type filter {will help it breath much better, at the track & on the road, still giving you protection from dirt & dust}, some steeper gears {3.73:1 are a decent compromise, for a street/occasional strip car & still be drivable}, maybe some taller/wider sticky rear tires {or slicks or drag radials, for at the track} & a different looser converter {still be drivable 2500rpm or more will free up the car on the starting line & improve your 60ft times, that is the best place for big ET improvements, in slower cars}, better adj. shocks, the


car would drop near a second to second & a half or possibly more off the ET... You could always also take the rear


seat out, take the spare tire & jack out, no unnecessary weight in the car that is easily removed, takes no time, to

reinstall & will help with power to weight ratio, for quicker ET's & MPH... Good luck have fun, that's what it's all
about after all...
All the stuff mentioned would only be maybe $1700-$2500 {if you do the work yourself &
shop right
}, if you really want to go fast some head porting & more camshaft on top of the suggestions
above, you will be rock-en & roll-en in no time... Then there is always N20, you can be really fast, if you have the
nerve & the proper fuel system requirements....


Thanks for the tips:
I have the chrome box, MSD Blaster High Vibration coil, low resistance plug wires. The carb was special built by Blake Carbureation in Mooresville NC with street/strip in mind. But I have never taken the the spare out or the back seat but will try that next.

Thanks!
Every little thing can & will help... Good luck have fun, I have for 37 years now...
"fill your library before you fill your garage"   Budnicks