68 Charger wheel lip moldings

[PlainfieldCharger]

Hello All,

I want to add wheel lip moldings to my 68. The car did come with them from the factory. There seems to be a handful of aftermarket products available. What provider seems to be the best quality?
;)Thanks!!

[stripedelete]

Great question!  My Dc.com searches turn up very little info.   At the Mopar Nationals I found there to be quite a range in price.  Is it a get what you pay for situation or is there a differnce in material, fit-and-finish, etc?

 

[Dino]

Honestly I haven't heard much good about any of the aftermarket ones.  Your best bet is, as usual, to find some original ones.  They're stainless so dents can be removed and polished.  Have you checked the parts for sale section?

[bull]

The repopped trim pieces aren't too bad once mounted but compared to the originals they're pretty flimsy. Year One has them I know.

[PlainfieldCharger]

Thanks for the info...I am searching for some used ones. Might be hard to find a full set. I was hoping that some of the repro ones were close in quality. I will check the forsale forum

[69charger2002]

i actually have a full set i was thinking about listing. pm me if interested.

[PlainfieldCharger]

Thanks 69Charger2002, Those wheel lip moldings are AWESOME
Can't wait to install them

[OldGuy]

We got some through Classic Industries for our 1968 Charger.  Yea, they aren't as sturdy as the original stainless; but, what I found was that because they are a little more flexible, they snug up closer to the wheel wells and fenders and fit the contour better.  The screw holes line up pretty well and they are chromed which makes them stand out a little more. The original ones on my 1969 Charger leave gaps and spaces at various points around the wheel wells.

[THE STIG]

We got some through Classic Industries for our 1968 Charger.  Yea, they aren't as sturdy as the original stainless; but, what I found was that because they are a little more flexible, they snug up closer to the wheel wells and fenders and fit the contour better.  The screw holes line up pretty well and they are chromed which makes them stand out a little more. The original ones on my 1969 Charger leave gaps and spaces at various points around the wheel wells.

How about some pics?

[OldGuy]

We got some through Classic Industries for our 1968 Charger.  Yea, they aren't as sturdy as the original stainless; but, what I found was that because they are a little more flexible, they snug up closer to the wheel wells and fenders and fit the contour better.  The screw holes line up pretty well and they are chromed which makes them stand out a little more. The original ones on my 1969 Charger leave gaps and spaces at various points around the wheel wells.

How about some pics?

I'll try to post up some pic's in a few days - right now the car is on the upper deck of my rack and it won't show a very good view.

[bill440rt]

Are you sure the repros you got are chromed & not anodized aluminum?? 

[Dino]

We got some through Classic Industries for our 1968 Charger.  Yea, they aren't as sturdy as the original stainless; but, what I found was that because they are a little more flexible, they snug up closer to the wheel wells and fenders and fit the contour better.  The screw holes line up pretty well and they are chromed which makes them stand out a little more. The original ones on my 1969 Charger leave gaps and spaces at various points around the wheel wells.

How about some pics?

I'll try to post up some pic's in a few days - right now the car is on the upper deck of my rack and it won't show a very good view.

Upper deck?  Rack?  Okay we may need pics of that as well...

[OldGuy]

Are you sure the repros you got are chromed & not anodized aluminum?? 

Probably aluminum - just look like chrome 

[OldGuy]

Pics of repro wheel lip moldings we put on the 1968.

[OldGuy]

We got some through Classic Industries for our 1968 Charger.  Yea, they aren't as sturdy as the original stainless; but, what I found was that because they are a little more flexible, they snug up closer to the wheel wells and fenders and fit the contour better.  The screw holes line up pretty well and they are chromed which makes them stand out a little more. The original ones on my 1969 Charger leave gaps and spaces at various points around the wheel wells.

How about some pics?

I'll try to post up some pic's in a few days - right now the car is on the upper deck of my rack and it won't show a very good view.

Upper deck?  Rack?  Okay we may need pics of that as well...

Okay - pic of Chargers double stacked.

[PlainfieldCharger]

Those repops look pretty good

[Dino]

We got some through Classic Industries for our 1968 Charger.  Yea, they aren't as sturdy as the original stainless; but, what I found was that because they are a little more flexible, they snug up closer to the wheel wells and fenders and fit the contour better.  The screw holes line up pretty well and they are chromed which makes them stand out a little more. The original ones on my 1969 Charger leave gaps and spaces at various points around the wheel wells.

How about some pics?

I'll try to post up some pic's in a few days - right now the car is on the upper deck of my rack and it won't show a very good view.

Upper deck?  Rack?  Okay we may need pics of that as well...

Okay - pic of Chargers double stacked.

That's pretty impressive!

[stripedelete]

Those repops look pretty good

I was thinking the same thing.

[66FBCharger]

How high does the ceiling need to be to be able to stack two Chargers on that type of lift?

[OldGuy]

How high does the ceiling need to be to be able to stack two Chargers on that type of lift?

The ceiling in my garage is 11'3".  I can stand comfortable straight up under the lift (6' tall).  My son can stand under it as well and he is about 6'4".
We had to put a Liftmaster side mount garage door opener on and extend the door rails up to the ceiling to allow enough top clearance.  The overhead chain driven openers won't get it done.

[66FBCharger]

How high does the ceiling need to be to be able to stack two Chargers on that type of lift?

The ceiling in my garage is 11'3".  I can stand comfortable straight up under the lift (6' tall).  My son can stand under it as well and he is about 6'4".
We had to put a Liftmaster side mount garage door opener on and extend the door rails up to the ceiling to allow enough top clearance.  The overhead chain driven openers won't get it done.

Oldguy,
Approw. how much room is left above the Charger lifted as in your picture? I have the same extended garage door tracks and the side lift openers. The height to the joists (where you would attach sheet rock for a finished ceiling) is 10' exactly. I am wondering if your setup would work for me in my garage.
Thanks for the info!
John

[OldGuy]

How high does the ceiling need to be to be able to stack two Chargers on that type of lift?

The ceiling in my garage is 11'3".  I can stand comfortable straight up under the lift (6' tall).  My son can stand under it as well and he is about 6'4".
We had to put a Liftmaster side mount garage door opener on and extend the door rails up to the ceiling to allow enough top clearance.  The overhead chain driven openers won't get it done.

Oldguy,
Approw. how much room is left above the Charger lifted as in your picture? I have the same extended garage door tracks and the side lift openers. The height to the joists (where you would attach sheet rock for a finished ceiling) is 10' exactly. I am wondering if your setup would work for me in my garage.
Thanks for the info!
John

John,
Man- 10' would be tight!  I just measured the distances.  There is about 14" from the top of the 69 to the sheetrock on the ceiling.  There is about 7" from the top of the 1968 to the bottom of the lift rail above it.  So, with my set up, your top car would be 1" from the ceiling resting on the post brace where I have mine set.  However, you have to raise the lift about and 1" or 2" above the brace you want the lift to rest on so the locking mechanism will engage.  There is 6" between each brace on the posts so you could drop it down one to clear the ceiling, but then the bottom of your lift rail would only be about 1" or less above the top of the bottom car - too close for me. 
I suppose the factors that could vary would be the height of your cars and the configuration of the lift.  Before I got mine, I really did alot of measuring i.e. height of cars, lift levels, etc. etc.  If you had a smaller car on top which is not as tall as a Charger you might be able to get it up on top. Or, visa versa, if you had a smaller car below your Charger, you could drop the rack down one notch and still clear everything.
I don't know if all of this makes much sense or if you can follow it but If I can clarify it or you need further info let me know.
Carl

[66FBCharger]

How high does the ceiling need to be to be able to stack two Chargers on that type of lift?

The ceiling in my garage is 11'3".  I can stand comfortable straight up under the lift (6' tall).  My son can stand under it as well and he is about 6'4".
We had to put a Liftmaster side mount garage door opener on and extend the door rails up to the ceiling to allow enough top clearance.  The overhead chain driven openers won't get it done.

Oldguy,
Approw. how much room is left above the Charger lifted as in your picture? I have the same extended garage door tracks and the side lift openers. The height to the joists (where you would attach sheet rock for a finished ceiling) is 10' exactly. I am wondering if your setup would work for me in my garage.
Thanks for the info!
John

John,
Man- 10' would be tight!  I just measured the distances.  There is about 14" from the top of the 69 to the sheetrock on the ceiling.  There is about 7" from the top of the 1968 to the bottom of the lift rail above it.  So, with my set up, your top car would be 1" from the ceiling resting on the post brace where I have mine set.  However, you have to raise the lift about and 1" or 2" above the brace you want the lift to rest on so the locking mechanism will engage.  There is 6" between each brace on the posts so you could drop it down one to clear the ceiling, but then the bottom of your lift rail would only be about 1" or less above the top of the bottom car - too close for me. 
I suppose the factors that could vary would be the height of your cars and the configuration of the lift.  Before I got mine, I really did alot of measuring i.e. height of cars, lift levels, etc. etc.  If you had a smaller car on top which is not as tall as a Charger you might be able to get it up on top. Or, visa versa, if you had a smaller car below your Charger, you could drop the rack down one notch and still clear everything.
I don't know if all of this makes much sense or if you can follow it but If I can clarify it or you need further info let me know.
Carl

Carl,
Thanks for the info. It is a great help. I need to look at ways to make it work. It is a great idea and I think it would solve my lack of room dilemma.
John