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Newbie; so I bought a running 440!

Started by 69finder, April 30, 2012, 09:31:39 PM

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69finder

I figured it would be good to buy a running/driving 440/727 so I could learn from it before transplanting it into my Charger.  I have some questions!

1) The engine has an Edlebrock carb.  When I turned the wheel all the way to one direction at idle, it just died? 
2) Is there anything I should do or check on the engine?  Anything specific to the 440?  I would like to drive the car a bit before the swap.
3) The rear end is 8 3/4?  Will this be an ok swap for my Charger and it used to have a 'posi/suregrip' but the previous owner swapped it for a regular one.  Is it a simple swap or is there anything that needs to be 'set' before use?  He just switched them over, nothing fancy.

4) Also, the brake pedal goes to the floor and comes back slooowly.  Is this a problem with the master or booster?  Or?

Thank you in advance for answering possibly stupid questions :)

greenpigs

What is the 440 in & what year?

Also what is the casting number on the third member?

Sounds like a bad power booster, how much vacuum is the motor pulling at idle & in gear?
1969 Charger RT


Living Chevy free

Indygenerallee

Sold my Charger unfortunately....never got it finished.

69finder

Oops!  It's a 1965 Monaco.  The engine is a 1973 with steel crank.  I will get the casting number, is that the one on top by the thermostat?

Also will check vacuum.  I just got it off the trailer after a 10 hour day :)

Indygenerallee

Chargers had different width 8 3/4's depending on generation, so I doubt the axle will fit (might have to re-weld the perches)
most 73 440s were cast cranks. the casting number is on the side of the block.
Sold my Charger unfortunately....never got it finished.

69finder

Will the driveshaft work?  I am thinking no :)  I have a 8 3/4 rear end in my Charger as well.

FLG

Quote from: 69finder on May 01, 2012, 12:38:25 AM
Will the driveshaft work?  I am thinking no :)  I have a 8 3/4 rear end in my Charger as well.

If the charger has a 8.75 why bother swapping anything?

greenpigs

Quote from: FLG on May 01, 2012, 12:55:09 AM
Quote from: 69finder on May 01, 2012, 12:38:25 AM
Will the driveshaft work?  I am thinking no :)  I have a 8 3/4 rear end in my Charger as well.

If the charger has a 8.75 why bother swapping anything?

Which is why I asked what the casting number was on the center section of the Charger now.
1969 Charger RT


Living Chevy free

69finder

Quote from: FLG on May 01, 2012, 12:55:09 AM
Quote from: 69finder on May 01, 2012, 12:38:25 AM
Will the driveshaft work?  I am thinking no :)  I have a 8 3/4 rear end in my Charger as well.

If the charger has a 8.75 why bother swapping anything?

My Charger only has the rear end in it, no engine or tranny/driveshaft.  I was thinking since the Monaco has a 'known good' running/driving rear end I would do all at once.

As for rear end, I read that ' backlash, bearing preloads, pinion depth ' needs to be set.  I know the previous owner didn't do that so does it go into the shop or is there some way I can set these myself?

Edit; found a good video.  This is what's required to change a diff? :)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jh25DUyCWY8

FLG

If you just want to swap center sections, very simple.

Unbolt driveshaft, remove brakes/axles, unbolt center section of differential and the entire pumpkin will come out as a whole and you can put it in you charger.

Since your doing all that already you  might as well change your wheel bearings.

Call Dr.Diff (Cass eslick) and get a set of green bearings (some will disagree with me here but so be it)

Original bearings are tapered greens are not, so you dont need to set preload...some will argue the greens arent as tough as the OE bearings due to there non tapered design but theres plenty of guys running em on pro touring cars and drag cars with no issues.

The benefits of the greens are you dont need to set preload, setting preload isnt a big deal but using the greens saves you this step...again i feel theres nothing wrong with the greens there proven to work just fine, but your more than welcome to go with a set of OE tapered bearings and set your preload, search the forum theres plenty of threads on it.

Also might as well change your shoes, springs, and rear wheel cylinders while you have all this apart already. Do it once and do it right.


69finder

The car is really lovable :)  I am spending time and money on re-doing the brakes.

I initially thought the rear end was locking up due to the diff swap, but I think it's the brakes.  If I don't do any of those things (preload, backlash? etc) what will happen?  I think the pumpkin was swapped so maybe nothing needs to be done?