383 build

[Bithand]

I am about to start a 69 Charger Rotisserie Restore.  I have 2 cars one for parts.

They cannot be numbers matching factory restored so I am gonna put my own twist on them.

The plan is to mix a power tour car look with a pro street car look.  The issue I am having is that have a 383 Mill and there are no proven engine combos out for that motor.

I will list what I am planning and I would appreciate feed back.  Rip it up if I need it.  Thanks in Advance.

68 383 block with factory bottom end

Eddy RPM 84cc Aluminum Heads

Comp Cams Extreme XE285HL.....I Think is the number.

Hydraulic Flat Tappet

285 duration 545 lift

Debating roller rockers? ( what setup should I use?)

Eddy Torker Intake  ( Its on the motor but I could change if I had to)

Holley 850 DP

1 7/8 primary long tube headers ceramic coated TTI most likely cause of the heads

Electric H2o pump

Aluminum aftermarket radiator

300 gph fuel pump ( good for 700+ hp)

MSD Billet Distributor and Blaster 2 Coil

MSD 6 AL Control Box

727 TF transmission ( possibly gear vendors over drive)

3200 stall converter probably 10"

8.75 Posi rear end casting 489

3.91 gears

Mono Leafs  and Cal Tracs out Back

Wilwood discs up front, Factory Drums in the back

19x10 Budniks Out Back 345 tires

18x10 Budniks up front 275 Tires

Mini Tub

Thanks in Advance for any feedback.  Want to do this right

[firefighter3931]

Have you considered a stroker rotating assembly for your 383 ? Dean's 383>496 is a nice streetable combination that makes very good power 

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,46587.0.html


The build that you outlined is waaay over-cammed. There really aren't any descent piston options for a stock stroke 383 unless you go with a Diamond racing forged piece and you're still left with a 383. The 383 is a descent motor and can make excellent power but cubic inches will give you increased low speed torque which is what you'll want for the type of car you're building. 

That cam will want lots of stall speed in a 383ci based build and will make very little manifold vacuum. It'll be miserable to drive on the street. You really need to scale back the cam if you are intent on keeping this build in the 383-390ci range 


Ron

[Bithand]

Thanks Ron,

I was basing the motor off of a Tech article in Mopar Action

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/mopp_0209_383_engine_restore/viewall.html

I guess they are thinkng strictly in terms of dyno power and not all around streetability.

I may end up going with the 496" Stroker just trying to save the $2000 I guess

Thanks

[Dino]

If you don't mind me asking, why not go with a 440 to start with?

[Bithand]

I already have a fresh 383.  I'm thinking of keeping it as is.  Just dressing it up a little and dropping it in the car.  I have probably a years worth of Rotisserie rebuild to do first.  I'll save the pennies and find myself a 440 to start with.  In the meantime I can get the little things for the 383 that will work on the 440 later.  Valve covers, Distributor, coil whatever.  The 383 has a 509 purple shaft in it so it will work for a while driving the car around while I build the 440.  When it is ready I wll do a weekend swap.  I think thats the best route for now.  My next question is where can I get my hands on a good 440 block?

[Dino]

I already have a fresh 383.  I'm thinking of keeping it as is.  Just dressing it up a little and dropping it in the car.  I have probably a years worth of Rotisserie rebuild to do first.  I'll save the pennies and find myself a 440 to start with.  In the meantime I can get the little things for the 383 that will work on the 440 later.  Valve covers, Distributor, coil whatever.  The 383 has a 509 purple shaft in it so it will work for a while driving the car around while I build the 440.  When it is ready I wll do a weekend swap.  I think thats the best route for now.  My next question is where can I get my hands on a good 440 block?

Good plan!   

Craigslist is full of 440's but you may want to place an ad in the wanted section here and see what comes up.  Even if someone has the one you want but isn't near you, the show season has started so you could possibly meet up to buy one. 

If you're rebuilding a 440 from scratch then you can get just about any year, if you want to get one that only needs a few things like a new cam and intake then find an HP block, up to '72 I think,

[Bithand]

Indoing a 440 build I think I will start witha bare block and build it from the ground up. I want the bottom end to be able to hold up well.  Maybe even a street plate system later on 100-150 shot!!!!

Probably do the whole rotating assembly, possibly a stroker kit, aluminum heads and as radical of a cam as I can get away with while maintaining a streetable machine.  93 pump gas so I will stop around 10.0 - 10.5:1 on the CR.

Id love to have a 600+ HP street car, without the spray.  I know its do able.  I'm not in any huge rush.  Do it right do it once.

[Troy]

Be aware that the 383 and 440 use different distributors.

If the 383 is already "fresh" then I'd stick it in the car at first to get it drivable. Building a 440 like you're talking about will take a pile of $$$ - but so will a 383 and the 440 will be easier to find parts for and have more power in the end. Since you're going to gut the 440 for all those parts you really only need a block. I have a few (one with the machine work mostly finished) but I'm in Ohio and shipping it to Texas would cost more than the block itself. If you can't find anything locally then just go all out and buy a finished stroker engine from a place like Muscle Motors. The shipping will probably be less than all the individual parts, it will be ready to drop in, and it will come with a guarantee.

Troy

[firefighter3931]

Thanks Ron,

I was basing the motor off of a Tech article in Mopar Action

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/mopp_0209_383_engine_restore/viewall.html

I guess they are thinkng strictly in terms of dyno power and not all around streetability.

I may end up going with the 496" Stroker just trying to save the $2000 I guess

Thanks

Take a look at the dyno numbers in that MM article ; torque peak with the xe285hl cam comes in at close to 5000rpm and the HP is still climbing at 6000. I bet it would still make power to 6500 if you could control the valvetrain. The problem with fast rate of lift cam profiles and hyd lifters is valve float. After 6k a lot of weird stuff starts to happen because the hyd lifter will pump up and start to float the valves. 

You need to pick a cam that will work with your current cubic inches and peak @ 6000rpm. A good cam would be the Lunati Voodoo 303 grind. You can use it with stock rocker arms/shafts so no need to purchase an adjustable valvetrain at this point. The torker Manifold also matches well with this cam. You'll be overcarbed with an 850....a 750 dp is all you'll need (and want) I'll also recommend a crank driven waterpump as opposed to electric. A mechanical HV fuel pump will also more than adequately supply up to 600hp. Keep things simple 

These recommendations are based on your desire to use the fresh 383 shortblock/3000 stall and 3.91 gears.


Ron

[Bithand]

Thanks Ron ,all things to keep in mind.

Im on the fence right now luckily I have plenty of time to consider my options while the car is on the rotisserie this fall

I am thinking of using the 383 as is.It has a purple 509 Cam and the Torker.  Just getting it in the car and driving it while I

search for a 440 block or decide to go with the 496" Stroker kit for the 383.  My current mill has 906 casting Heads that have been mildly massaged

I am in contact with TXCharger70.  He is about 45 minutes from me here in Texas and has the 496 Stroker from 440 Source done with Stealth Heads.

I may hook up with him and see how he likes it.  Decisions decisions huh?  I'm glad there is a forum like this where I can learn from the great ones

Regards,

[TUFCAT]

I bought Diamond Racing Pistons for my 383 a year ago. The piston selection absolutely sucks for this motor.

Diamond was the best (and only forged piston) available, and it was money well spent.

[Inspector71]

I wish I could tell you what carb to go with, and this is only my experience, but I've had nothing but bad luck with Holleys and lots of time having them rebuilt. I won't use them again.

[c00nhunterjoe]

It only takes one time to rebuild them. If you are doing it often then you are doing something wrong.

[ACUDANUT]

383's are excellent engines.  Lots of torque.  I love them.  If you already have a fresh engine, go with it.

[Supercharged Riot]

So whats the most aggresive cam you can use with flat top pistons?

[Inspector71]

I never rebuilt the Holleys. they were rebuilt by professional mechanics. Nothing but trouble and I'd never own another one.

[c00nhunterjoe]

I would get a new mechanic. There's not much to them. Peice of cake to fix. The art comes in tuning them but that applies to any carb.

[ACUDANUT]

I always ask Machini Racing.  They know their stuff. I can't remember what cam I used.

[TUFCAT]

Just ask Ron "firefighter3931" on our site. He's helped me and many others.    Do a search by member name.

[General_01]

Have you considered a stroker rotating assembly for your 383 ? Dean's 383>496 is a nice streetable combination that makes very good power 

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,46587.0.html



Ron

Definately fun to drive and happy on the street. Thanks again for all the advise Ron.

Dean

[green69rt]

For mopar engines you might want to look at this site or call them for advice.

http://www.diamondbackengines.com/?pid=66