News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

who makes the best conversion brake kits drum to disc for 1968 Charger

Started by MikeD, April 18, 2012, 05:10:19 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

MikeD


1968 Charger B5

1968 Dodge Charger R/T
1970 Dodge Charger
1974 Plymouth Roadrunner
1998 Jeep Cherokee SRT

MikeD


twodko

Check out Master Power Brakes. Excellent disk conversion and fits no prob. Had the kit for my 69 Chevelle and will be doing the same on my Charger.  :Twocents:
FLY NAVY/Marine Corps or take the bus!

bill440rt

All depends what you're going for. The "best" kit by definition is highly subjective.
Ask 10 different people, you'll get 10 different answers or opinions.

I'd say as a whole each manufacturer's offerings have their share of pros & cons.
I like the MP kit as well, it's based off of "stock" type components. However, the calipers mount on the rear vs front so you have to be careful with hose routing. They give you a GM prop valve, but you can use the stock disc valves instead. It's not gonna perform like a big 6-piston kit, either.
I like the Wilwood offerings, but others don't.
I HATE SSBC like the plague, others love 'em.
I've heard good things about Baer, and that Brembo is expensive.

What are your plans for the car??
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

lasvegas69charg

 I got my 4 wheel disc conversion from right stuff and I'm  happy with everything they've sent me down to the sst fuel, brake and emergency cable. I got everything for $1500.
69 dodge charger 383/727/3.55 (my dad is the original owner-matching number) stroked to a 496😉

MikeD

Quote from: bill440rt on April 21, 2012, 08:22:38 PM
All depends what you're going for. The "best" kit by definition is highly subjective.
Ask 10 different people, you'll get 10 different answers or opinions.

I'd say as a whole each manufacturer's offerings have their share of pros & cons.
I like the MP kit as well, it's based off of "stock" type components. However, the calipers mount on the rear vs front so you have to be careful with hose routing. They give you a GM prop valve, but you can use the stock disc valves instead. It's not gonna perform like a big 6-piston kit, either.
I like the Wilwood offerings, but others don't.
I HATE SSBC like the plague, others love 'em.
I've heard good things about Baer, and that Brembo is expensive.

What are your plans for the car??
The car is a show car but when I started the project it was going to be a track so the engine got about  600hp at the flywheel now a few years later I'm looking to up grade the brakes.

Thanks Mike

astjp2

I made my own, use 2005 crown vic rotors, calipers, and a custom bracket.  I had the bracket made at a shop that had a waterjet.  Total cost was around 200.00.  It uses the stock spindles and hubs.  Tim

MikeD


Cooter

'68 Charger? 1973-76 A-body...Bolts right on...Junkyard pieces if you can find 'em are plentiful and cheap. Might have around $500 in the set up after rebuilding with new parts.
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

myk

^^What he said.  'OP since you mentioned "no problems" the best way to get to that is to use stock-ish parts from compatible year Chrysler products.  That's what I did with mine, and although they don't provide 20 piston stopping performance I know it'll be factory reliable and parts will always be available...

chargerboy69

Here ya go CCP disc brake  kit, complete easy bolt on with everything you need.  Several of my buddies are running these kits as well. Works perfect.

http://www.classicperform.com/NewProducts/MoparBrakeKits/Mopar_Brake_Kits.htm
Indiana Army National Guard 1st Battalion, 293rd Infantry. Nightfighters. Fort Wayne Indiana.


A government big enough to give you everything you need, is a government big enough to take away everything that you have.
--Gerald Ford


                                       

modmidget

I installed the CPP front brakes in my '68 Charger last year.  As advertised, they bolted right in with no modifications to the frame or suspension.  They are also a good fit for my 14" Magnum 500 wheels.  I'm very happy with them.

MikeD


383_68charger

I ended up using spindles off a 84 diplomat.You need to use the charger lower ball joint,it bolts on the diplomat spindles.As for the master cly I'm going with a 70 charger master with power disk brakes.The booster I got is from a 68 newport .But here is somthing you need to look for and it's like finding gold if you do find it .It's a lever set up that goes between the booster and brake peddle.At one time I thought the booster just hooked up to the peddle.Other than that I think that this set up will work fine.When you need pads and rotors you order them for a diplomat.I was told the diplomat spindles are 3/8 longer than the charger ones and may affect the alingment ,And I was told different from others that it  was fine.I don't know about that for sure but I'm taking the chance and tring because I had a diplomat here in the scrap yard and its not costing me any money this way.

stripedelete

I used a 1978 Volare.   $48? 78? (can't remember) at pick-a-part for both sides, spindles, rotor, caliper.  My conversion was power to power.  So I can't help you with the booster.

   

sebarger

I know this thread is a little old, but I thought I would share my experience for posterity.

What disc brake kit you choose is all about the application/ intended use of the car (e.g. show, race, street performance), wheel size limitations and budget. I'm stuck with the old 15" American Racing Vectors on my GL replica, fall into the street performance category and was looking to keep costs down given all the other upgrades I'm doing. Also, I liked the idea of using all Mopar parts to ensure easy servicing.

Someone on this forum put me in touch with "Doctor Diff" (Cass Eslick @ http://www.doctordiff.com) who is extremely knowledgeable and helpful. He sells a front disc brake kit that was perfect for my application:

◦   New forged steel knuckles
◦   New 11.75" drilled/slotted/plated rotors
◦   DOT stainless flex hoses upgrade
◦   1 1/32" aluminum master cylinder with 4 stud adapter

My '68 had a manual drum system on it and after reading all the posts I was concerned about needing a power booster, props valves etc. Cass advised that a 1 1/32" master cylinder would give plenty of stopping power and good pedal feel without a booster and suggested I go with EBC yellow brake pads if I wanted extra stopping power (I did). You can always add a booster later. The same goes for upgrading the rear to discs.

The kit went together smoothly and we took her for the maiden test drive yesterday. What a HUGE improvement. The front wheels lock up before the rears in the dry so I'm not going to bother with a prop valve at this point in time. I doubt I'll upgrade the rears to discs although Cass does make a rear disc conversion kit as well.
'68 Dodge Charger 383 4bbl auto w/Hotchkis TVS & Gear Vendors underdrive/ overdrive
Scott

Patronus

'73 Cuda 340 5spd RMS
'69 Charger 383 "Luci"
'08 CRF 450r
'12.5 450SX FE

john108

I am not immediately in the market but I thought I would start looking into it.
Hemmings Muscle Machine Magazine has an add from WILWOOD for their "Complete Challenge Series Front Brake Kits" for $999.95 or $1049.00  .  It might be about $150 below their MSRP, or maybe not.
Is anyone familiar with this kit?  It appears much higher priced than the CPP referred to above, etc.

I went to their website and didn't see a reference to a challange series kit.  I guess it will take a phone call but I thought I would start here for practical knowledge and not salesmanship.

This was the closest I could come:
Dynapro 6 Big Brake Front Brake Kit (Hub)    Product Number: 140-10740-D     Price: $1,203.99
Pistons: 6 Rotor Diameter:12.19 Caliper Mount:Lug Wheel Diameter: 15 Flange: Axle Offset: 0

The add has minimal detail.  It appears to have the 6-piston caliper, rotor, and pads.  It doesn't appear to include all the extra hardware when compared to the CPP brand kit referred to earlier in this post.

Is the Wilwood worth twice the price??  of the CPP.?  plus you still need a master and I am not sure what else..


Big Sugar




[img]<table border="0" cellpadding="0" style="border-collapse: collapse" width="182" id="table1" height="202" bordercolorlight="#ECEBF1" bordercolordark="#E9DFD1" b


bill440rt

"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

Mopar Nut

Quote from: Big Sugar on March 30, 2013, 05:50:12 PM
Dr Diff all the way \

And he's a nice guy as well !


Ron
Never bought the disc set up, but sells outstanding parts for 8-3/4.
"Dear God, my prayer for 2024 is a fat bank account and a thin body. Please don't mix these up like you did the last ten years."

Mike DC

  
Does the Wilwood stuff have all the weather sealings and durability that a street car needs?


Or is it a "Our customers are never going to drive their car through puddles on a gravel road anyway" kind of deal?  

flyinlow

Did the disk-o-tech 73 A body spindles on our '70. Staight forward,stock Mopar parts.

The scarebird set up gives you bigger12 inch Ford LTD  rotors and 3 inch late model Ram calipers.