Price on a rebuilt 440

[Dodgerdallas]

Is 2500.00 for a 440,no exchange,forged crank rebuilt long block,shipping included from Spokane to Dallas a good price? Found a place online that seems to be legit...
                                           

[cdr]

Is 2500.00 for a 440,no exchange,forged crank rebuilt long block,shipping included from Spokane to Dallas a good price? Found a place online that seems to be legit...
                                           

who is the builder & what kind of parts in the build

[Dodgerdallas]

They say all new parts w 7 year/100,000 mile warranty which gives me a red flag (seems like a lot),I talked to a salesman for a minute but havent checked them out anywhere else-heres the site.....http://www.autoguide.net/apf/chrysler-car_engines/mop_440lb.html

[charger_fan_4ever]

Did he say what year the blocks are ? which heads 906,452  ?

Ive seen them on ebay and always wondered. I'm also looking for a ready to go long block at the moment. hmm

[Dodgerdallas]

The ones I was looking at were 66-72,go on the site and scroll down to read the details

[69finder]

What are they charging for exchange?

[Dodgerdallas]

I scribbled some stuff down so dont take this to heart but I beleve its 300 core for cast crank and 600 for forged

[Dodgerdallas]

This is what I can muster from my scribbling,he was talking fast-
1666.00 engine
if no core-1966.00 for cast crank
2266.00 (600 more) for forged crank,no core
255.00 shipping from washington to Dallas-thats what I have

[FastbackJon]

What you're looking at is S&J engines, who I believe merged or bought out Jones Automotive engines here in Spokane that rebuilt the '66 440 long block for my '66 Charger in 2005 for about the same price.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-V6H26VbgkE

It ended up being about a point lower compression than I expected (9.5 instead of 10.5), but I'm about 12,000 miles and 7.5 years later and it's still going. The car is about 3900 lbs and I can get it through the 1/4 traps in 2nd gear at a bit over 90 mph, with a 3.23 diff ratio single-tire-fryer.

I don't know how much of this is still relevant to what you're looking for, but here are the specs for my build. Where it says "re use timing chain" they mean to use the one I just bought for the car that I brought in.

[bull]

It's a good price, that's for sure. I paid right at $3k to rebuild my 383 and a 440 should be about the same. You might check with Portland Engine Rebuilders if you're going to ship one because they might already have one in stock ready to go:

http://www.portlandenginerebuilders.com/engine.html

P/N          Price        Description
1357.1   $1,672   CHRY V-8 440 7.2L 1966-72 FORGED CRANK - DUAL EXH - INCLUDES HARD SEATS
1356.1   $1,672   CHRY V-8 440 7.2L 1966-72 FORGED CRANK - SINGLE EXH - INCLUDES HARD SEATS
2278.1   $1,562   CHRY V-8 440 7.2L 1973-78 FORGED CRANK - DUAL EXH
2277.1   $1,562   CHRY V-8 440 7.2L 1973-80 CAST CRANK - DUAL EXH
2267.1   $1,562   CHRY V-8 440 7.2L 1973-80 CAST CRANK - SINGLE EXH
2268.1   $1,562   CHRY V-8 440 7.2L 1973-80 FORGED CRANK - SINGLE EXH
2274.1   $1,920   CHRY V-8 440 7.2L MH 1973-84 CAST CRANK - GSKT TYPE SPARK PLUGS
2275.1   $1,920   CHRY V-8 440 7.2L MH 1973-84 FORGED CRANK - GSKT TYPE SPARK PLUGS
2284.1   $1,898   CHRY V-8 440-3 7.2L MH 1973-84 CAST CRANK - TAPER SEAT SPARK PLUGS
2285.1   $1,920   CHRY V-8 440-3 7.2L MH 1973-84 FORGED CRANK - TAPER SEAT SPARK PLUGS

[charger_fan_4ever]

It's a good price, that's for sure. I paid right at $3k to rebuild my 383 and a 440 should be about the same. You might check with Portland Engine Rebuilders if you're going to ship one because they might already have one in stock ready to go:

http://www.portlandenginerebuilders.com/engine.html

P/N          Price        Description
1357.1   $1,672   CHRY V-8 440 7.2L 1966-72 FORGED CRANK - DUAL EXH - INCLUDES HARD SEATS
1356.1   $1,672   CHRY V-8 440 7.2L 1966-72 FORGED CRANK - SINGLE EXH - INCLUDES HARD SEATS
2278.1   $1,562   CHRY V-8 440 7.2L 1973-78 FORGED CRANK - DUAL EXH
2277.1   $1,562   CHRY V-8 440 7.2L 1973-80 CAST CRANK - DUAL EXH
2267.1   $1,562   CHRY V-8 440 7.2L 1973-80 CAST CRANK - SINGLE EXH
2268.1   $1,562   CHRY V-8 440 7.2L 1973-80 FORGED CRANK - SINGLE EXH
2274.1   $1,920   CHRY V-8 440 7.2L MH 1973-84 CAST CRANK - GSKT TYPE SPARK PLUGS
2275.1   $1,920   CHRY V-8 440 7.2L MH 1973-84 FORGED CRANK - GSKT TYPE SPARK PLUGS
2284.1   $1,898   CHRY V-8 440-3 7.2L MH 1973-84 CAST CRANK - TAPER SEAT SPARK PLUGS
2285.1   $1,920   CHRY V-8 440-3 7.2L MH 1973-84 FORGED CRANK - TAPER SEAT SPARK PLUGS

Are these prices for longblocks or shortblocks ? Says hardened seats so i assume longblock.

[Challenger340]

This is hard to say, because there are no wars wanted by me, but nonetheless, I think it needs to be said.....
because,
many purchasers of these type 440's show up later on this, and many other internet boards, trying to figure out why their Engines are such dawgs

IMO,
It is an excellent price for a non-performance, stock 200hp/440 type rebuild, if you are just looking for something that will run on it's own wheels, and that is about it.

I think it should be pretty obvious to anyone reading this, that Labor-wise, things happen for MONEY... against TIME in this world ??
You GET.....what you PAY for.....pure & simple,
and true to that doctrine of trying to survive and make a profit,
the Machining operations performed are targeted to whats "needed" to make it re-run again ??

The jobber pistons typically used in these because they are cheap, are NO-WHERE NEAR 9.5:1 in the real world as installed, most fall in the high 7's to low 8's for Compression Ratio.

Not trying to confuse any "issues" here...
to the contrary,
just trying to clarify...and explain.... WHAT can be expected when purchasing these jobber 440's performance-wise if that is the expectation, even sub-consciously ??

Far too often it seems, these Engines get purchased and installed...
and later,
lets just say...."issues" arise... with the Owners "expectations" ,of what a 440 should provide in their mind ??

Gearing and ET of the Car matter relatively little to mph exhibited in a 1/4 time trial, but more importantly, THAT mph is a direct correlation to power.

There are many HP Calculators, choose your own, but 90 mph in a 3900 lb car is roughly 225 HP at the Flywheel !

http://www.eldemoniorojo.com/calculator.htm

[Dodgerdallas]

Thanks for the insight,what about-and I know this is the long way around,I replaced the pistons,cam and did some head work to get it up to 440 mag specs,or close?

[FastbackJon]

This is hard to say, because there are no wars wanted by me, but nonetheless, I think it needs to be said.....
because,
many purchasers of these type 440's show up later on this, and many other internet boards, trying to figure out why their Engines are such dawgs

IMO,
It is an excellent price for a non-performance, stock 200hp/440 type rebuild, if you are just looking for something that will run on it's own wheels, and that is about it.

I think it should be pretty obvious to anyone reading this, that Labor-wise, things happen for MONEY... against TIME in this world ??
You GET.....what you PAY for.....pure & simple,
and true to that doctrine of trying to survive and make a profit,
the Machining operations performed are targeted to whats "needed" to make it re-run again ??

The jobber pistons typically used in these because they are cheap, are NO-WHERE NEAR 9.5:1 in the real world as installed, most fall in the high 7's to low 8's for Compression Ratio.

Not trying to confuse any "issues" here...
to the contrary,
just trying to clarify...and explain.... WHAT can be expected when purchasing these jobber 440's performance-wise if that is the expectation, even sub-consciously ??

Far too often it seems, these Engines get purchased and installed...
and later,
lets just say...."issues" arise... with the Owners "expectations" ,of what a 440 should provide in their mind ??

Gearing and ET of the Car matter relatively little to mph exhibited in a 1/4 time trial, but more importantly, THAT mph is a direct correlation to power.

There are many HP Calculators, choose your own, but 90 mph in a 3900 lb car is roughly 225 HP at the Flywheel !

http://www.eldemoniorojo.com/calculator.htm

I don't take offense at all, your comments are interesting.

I agree that it's just a matter of how much you want to spend and if you want a warranty or not. Being 20 years old at the time, in college, on a limited budget and my first 440, I didn't want anything too radical. They said if they built it up and did a lot of performance work I would lose the warranty. So I decided to have them build it close to stock. It does feel pretty fast out on the road.

And 90 mph in a 3900 lb car is very low ball. With this as the first time out to the track for the car, and my second time ever, and no tuning outside of idle mixture screws and basic timing, the car did 93 mph (I just went out and grabbed the slips) and 3900 is just the weight of the car, not including me driving.

A more realistic figure (using your calculator anyway) is closer to 260-270 horsepower, but that figure at the flywheel still seems low compared to the factory rating of 375. As we all know, there are all sorts of factors that come into drag racing, with not only the motor but with the driver, track conditions, tires, temperature, transmission, shift points, and so on, and so forth.

But I don't know about those calculators. The calculator said a factory stock 440 Charger should run 105 mph through the traps if it were to have 375 horsepower at the flywheel, and to me that seems very fast for a completely stock 440 B-Body automatic.

Looking at Drag Racing magazines from back in the day, I see the fastest they ever got a B-body to run, with a 440 automatic, 4.10 gears (compared to my 3.23), and a professional driver, was 102.8mph.

http://www.musclecarclub.com/musclecars/general/musclecars-50fast.shtml

So the bottom line is that I think if you're like me and don't really enjoy going to the track and waiting for hours to get in three runs, and just want something fun for around town and on road trips, and that's streetable with a warranty, it's a good starting budget motor that I've been very happy with.

[Challenger340]

So the bottom line is that I think if you're like me and don't really enjoy going to the track and waiting for hours to get in three runs, and just want something fun for around town and on road trips, and that's streetable with a warranty, it's a good starting budget motor that I've been very happy with.

Exactly !
GREAT for what it is, exactly what it is....and be HAPPY with what it is for a GREAT price !

Dunno about the context of "starting budget motor" though ??
"Starting" has a connotation to getting somewhere later in a journey ?
If just getting the Car running is the journey...wonderful ~!

If "performance" is the journey....
then,
IMO,
Not with these style engines...
because,
there is pretty much nothing that can be done later..... to this style Engine to increase performance....without great expense....so "starting" doesn't fit.

They are extremely "limited" for any later potential power increases, is all I am saying.

Costs are prohibitive to upgrading them power-wise later, compared to just starting over with a new Core/Build.

[Dodgerdallas]

Ok thanks,while I've got somebody who knows-would you read my post about 2 barrel carb question on this thread (?)

[RECHRGD]

Hey Jon!  They're having a test and tune day at the track this Saturday.  I'm thinking about exercising the '68.  Wanna come?

[Dodgerdallas]

I'm in Texas brotha,where you???

[RECHRGD]

I'm in Texas brotha,where you???

Sorry.. I was trying to get FastbackJon's attention while he was online.  I should just message him.  Spokane Wa. BTW....

[Challenger340]

Thanks for the insight,what about-and I know this is the long way around,I replaced the pistons,cam and did some head work to get it up to 440 mag specs,or close?

Replacing the Pistons, Cam, and Head Work voids any warranty if they did it,
and IF you were to do it yourself .....
would cost more than starting from scratch on a different Engine.....because it should also be balanced, Rods resized again with ARP Bolts, etc., etc., see where this goes ??

[Dodgerdallas]

Yeah I figured as much,no easy answers on that one.Did u have a chance to look at my carb question about the small check ball?

[BSB67]

Pay close attention to what Challenger340 is saying.  I will repeat what he has already said.  If you have any vision or plan to amp-up this motor in the future, don't buy these budget motors.  You realistically cannot get there from here.  Insted, build a simple zero deck short block using a reputable local machine shop.  Then add all of the low budget stuff you want to keep cost down in the short term.  This way, when budget allows, you can make systemic changes over time to get to 500 hp without ever pulling the engine.   If you buy a budget motor, you'll be hard pressed to add 50 hp without pulling the motor and completely redoing the short block.

[FastbackJon]

When I went in there, I took in a stock 1966 440 long block and said I wanted them to build me an engine with the same specs as the 375 hp '67 440 Magnum motor that would have come in the Charger, Coronet R/T and GTX, of course without the special 915 closed-chamber heads they had with the bigger valves. Mine are still closed-chamber but have the smaller valves, I believe casting number 516.

Based on some of the replies, I'm now thinking maybe I didn't get the build I asked for, or?? If I got what I asked for, I'm happy. I probably should have done homework though to figure out the specs for a '67 440 to be able to give them something rather than just assuming they knew what it was. I know I did get shorted on compression ratio, getting 9.5:1 instead of 10.1:1, but I didn't find that out until a few months ago.

Since the initial build, I've added headers, electronic ignition (Pertronix II) with the Flamethrower II coil, a K&N air filter and exhaust cutouts. After those drag times I posted I also swapped out the factory cast iron intake with an aluminum Edelbrock Performer RPM. The transmission is stock.

I said I could always go bigger and faster later with yes, either rebuilding this engine (new cam, heads, and so on) or by buying another 440 and replacing the one that's in the car. I wasn't talking about the cheapest or most cost-effective way to do it.