New charger is running hot...

[Jderek]

I just got a 68 charger with a 440 (built) and 4speed.  It runs around 205-210 on a 60 degree day.  The radiator is a newer 22" brass but no shroud.  The fan has a clutch.  Should I get a shroud and hope it helps or upgrade to a better radiator?  The car is restored so want radiator holes to match up...looks like there is an additional set for a 26 or 26.5 inch radiator.  Suggestions?  Thanks in advance.

[thedodgeboys]

was the block over bored ? that could explain the higher heat?

A shroud will help and make sure your clutch fan is working and what thermostat do you have in the motor?

[Jderek]

It was bored .30 over...replaced thermo 5 min ago with a 160.  Will order the shroud.  Will check fan when sealant at thermo dries.  Thank you

[firefighter3931]

Any updates ?

Make sure you're getting good circulation. Fire up the engine (cold) with the rad cap off and wait until the stat opens then observe the coolant flow. Blip the throttle and see how much the flow increases at higher rpm. It should be quite noticable 


Ron

[BrianShaughnessy]

OK...  Is it running 200 + when running down the road at 40+ mph OR is it running 200+ idling at stop light.   There's a difference.

If you're idling too hot,  then by all means get a shroud.   

If you're driving too hot,   then you need more cooling if simple things like the rubber flapper that seals off the hood to the radiator support is missing.
440 autos without A/C came with 22" cores.   26" was for A/C in most cases.

Frankly,  you're better off with a 180 thermo anyway.   160 will just cause bad gas mileage and cylinder bore wear.

[ACUDANUT]

I use a 180-190 thermostat and always use a 26 inch or bigger radiator that is at least 3 rows, on all my Mopars. Never had any issues. Never installed a shroud either.

[Cooter]

22"? Sounds like the stock 318 Radiator trying to cool a 440. Yes, definately needs a shroud for the clutch fan to opperate properly.

[resq302]

according to the factory service manual, the 383 4 spds got the 22" rad with a fixed 7 blade fan as well as 440s.  The only way a 22" rad came with a shroud was if the 440 was equipped with an auto trans.  You were automatically upgraded to a 26" rad if you had an axle package or received a/c in the car.  I know my charger would start running hot at idle or if I got stuck in traffic and would get up to the 210 range but once I would start moving, it would cool right down to the 12 o clock position on the gauge.  Today's crappy fuels that burn hotter doesn't help matters any with trying to keep a sub par cooling system functioning like it should either though.

[Jderek]

The 160 thermo has it running cooler now...shroud is on its way from Mancini.  Thanks for the help.

[RIDELIKEHELL]

Welcome 

[firefighter3931]

The 160 thermo has it running cooler now...shroud is on its way from Mancini.  Thanks for the help.

It's possible that the old 'stat was not opening fully or at an elevated temperature ? 

Good to hear it's running cooler ! 



Ron

[Jderek]

Come to find out I'm back to a 180 and.a shroud.  I guess the 160 thermo is ill-advised....oil needs to get to a certain temp to burn off particulates...something to that effect?  Anyhow, now the neck won't seal to the water pump...the fancy chrome one (and I tried sanding flat).  So I have the stock ugly aluminum neck on its way.  Thanks for the input...enjoy this Charger forum. 

[resq302]

With the gasket did you try smearing a little RTV silicone on either side of the gasket before putting it on?  Also, I have found over the years that when I was working on old cars, sometimes wrong bolts that were just long enough would be able to fit in there and if you shaved housing down, it would end up making the bolts bottom out in the hole.  I found out the hard way.

[Jderek]

No i havent tried smearing silicone on both sides of gasket.  Also, does thermostat go above gasket into the neck or below gasket sitting on water pump? Thx

[BrianShaughnessy]

Just say NO to cheap chrome thermostat housings.   Stock  cast iron,   stainless steel,  billet aluminum:   yes


Thermostat sits on water pump housing below gasket.     

[resq302]

I want to say that my thermostat housing was cast alluminum not cast iron.

[firefighter3931]

Just say NO to cheap chrome thermostat housings.   

Those chrome housings are junk....they allways warp and leak ! 


Ron

[Jderek]

Just got a cast aluminum housing...how many foot pounds do I torque it?

[Dans 68]

What 22" radiator part number are you running? My original 22" (043) which was stock for a '68 383 4-bbl 4-speed does just fine, at idle and at speed, and without a shroud. Ron's concern that you have lots of flow when the thermostat cracks is a valid one, as there are water pumps out there that are deficient.

Dan

[Dans 68]

Just got a cast aluminum housing...how many foot pounds do I torque it?

I normally put a little RTV on the gasket, and snug it down maybe a quarter turn past finger tight. Let the RTV set up, and then maybe a half turn more and you are good to go.

Dan

[FLG]

Curious, what WP housing are you using? Make sure its not 440source aluminum ones or that will lead to your overheating issues due to poor port design.

Also ditch the chrome neck, 440source sells a nice billet neck.

[Jderek]

I'm not sure which housing I have.  I know when I replaced the old thermo with a new 160 the temp didnt go above 180.  I purchased the Mancini 22" fan shroud but it didnt show up with the mounting kit...waiting on it.  In the meantime, I was told the 160 therm should be a 180, so bought a high flow 180.  Now the chrome neck leaks, sanded it flat, still leaks so I got the original aluminum one and fel pro gasket.  Once the fan shroud mount kit show will button it all up and see how cool it runs.  I think the old 180 therm was not working properly.  The car had 232 miles put on it in 3 years...sitting too long I think.  Thx again for the help.  Will update...

[Highbanked Hauler]

 Seriously, what is the problem with a 160 stat ?  My 440  (26" rad.) used to run barely warm till I had it rebuilt then it ran hot. I flushed the radiator a couple of times  and then it ran tolerable so I put a 160 in it and the temp. is fine.

[c00nhunterjoe]

Once you get your coolant leak fixed and the shroud installed check your timing.

[Jderek]

Seriously, what is the problem with a 160 stat ?  My 440  (26" rad.) used to run barely warm till I had it rebuilt then it ran hot. I flushed the radiator a couple of times  and then it ran tolerable so I put a 160 in it and the temp. is fine.

I was told the 160 doesn't allow the oil to get hot enough to burn off moisture.  And something about the cylinder walls being cooler with a 160, having a negative effect on efficiency.  I heard several explanations so I switched back to the 180.  Just an FYI I tried an infrared thermometer above and below the 180 thermostat and found the factory water temp gauge was off by 20 degrees (high).

[Jderek]

Once you get your coolant leak fixed and the shroud installed check your timing.

34 degrees timing...

[FLG]

Seriously, what is the problem with a 160 stat ?  My 440  (26" rad.) used to run barely warm till I had it rebuilt then it ran hot. I flushed the radiator a couple of times  and then it ran tolerable so I put a 160 in it and the temp. is fine.

I was told the 160 doesn't allow the oil to get hot enough to burn off moisture.  And something about the cylinder walls being cooler with a 160, having a negative effect on efficiency.  I heard several explanations so I switched back to the 180.  Just an FYI I tried an infrared thermometer above and below the 180 thermostat and found the factory water temp gauge was off by 20 degrees (high).

Yes, too cold an engine is as bad as too hot.

Also if you drive your car in the winter the heat will suck.