Higher watt headlights WITHOUT adding relays?

[Kern Dog]

The standard wattage for replacement headlights is 35 watts low and 55 w high. This is not great by any means, especially with a small 5" diameter bulb. I'm interested in using a higher wattage light, but at what point is the headlight relays necessary? If I could step up to ... oh.. say, 55 low and 75 high, that seems like it would be okay....What are your thoughts?

[Bob T]

I've done it in my car with higher output but same load type bulbs and no relays and it works fine and pleased with the result but its late so I'll dig out the receipt tomorrow with the detail and part #'s on it

[b5blue]

Keep in mind there is an overload protector built into the H/L switch, like a circuit breaker. It's a bimetallic strip that opens if the heat from too much current is being drawn, it's designed to reset itself when it cools down so as to never disable the H/L completely.   

[Cooter]

Install the relay or run the risk of overlaoding the headlight switch. These switches for 2nd Gen. Chargers are hartd enough to come by...Just because something works once, doesn't mean it will work all the time. Watched too many Chargers burn to the ground with this type thinking.

[Dino]

Install the relay or run the risk of overlaoding the headlight switch. These switches for 2nd Gen. Chargers are hartd enough to come by...Just because something works once, doesn't mean it will work all the time. Watched too many Chargers burn to the ground with this type thinking.

Agreed, get yourself some relays and some piece of mind.

[Kern Dog]

Watched too many Chargers burn to the ground with this type thinking.

Yeah.... But they ARE still making Chargers, right?

[68neverlate]

Install the relay or run the risk of overlaoding the headlight switch. These switches for 2nd Gen. Chargers are hartd enough to come by...Just because something works once, doesn't mean it will work all the time. Watched too many Chargers burn to the ground with this type thinking.

Agreed, get yourself some relays and some piece of mind.

I'm with Dino and Cooter on this one... I don't like rolling the dice when it comes to electrical. 

If the breaker fails in the headlight switch, you've got yourself a problem.  You could even have an issue with wiring (especially if it's original)... a spot of corrosion anywhere along the way and it could cause enough resistance to set a thermal meltdown in motion.

Fused relays and new upgraded wiring from the relays to the lights at a bare minimum if it were my car!   

 

[A383Wing]

Watched too many Chargers burn to the ground with this type thinking.

Yeah.... But they ARE still making Chargers, right?

no...real Chargers only had 2 doors...what they are making now are Coronets

Bryan   

[Bob T]

I checked on these before I got them and was assured that they draw the same amount of current as the oem ones thus negating relay installation  but the output is vastly improved. New generation lamp
Narva 50plus H4 48872BL2
Narva 50plus H1 48334BL2

http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/h4

I ran them in my last Charger for 2 years with no problems and then swapped them into my R/T

And yes, I would recommend relays if the new versions current rating exceeded the stock ones, I'm an Electrical Contractor by trade and take my car electrics fairly seriously too.
If you want to put in relays for peace of mind Red R/T , no problem , it will be a good thing for the electrical system in your car, just saying I checked mine before the purchase and install and didnt need too.

 Bob

[Kern Dog]

Thanks Bob. This may be a viable option.  I'll do a google search myself, but in case I turn up nothing, could you suggest where to look for these? Thanks again! Greg

[Bob T]

Thanks Bob. This may be a viable option.  I'll do a google search myself, but in case I turn up nothing, could you suggest where to look for these? Thanks again! Greg

No worries mate
I got them off a local auto sparkie , but as I'm in New Zealand maybe get hold of a local a/s guy and try to crossmatch them with the Narva link above.
I had to import the semi sealed headlights to install the lamps in first from the USA though beforehand, cause our headlights dip to the left not right hand side

These cost me $86.00NZD for the set of lamps in Dec 09 , if you get stuck and cant raise any locally to you I could probably get another set and freight them to you , they dont weigh much, would'nt cost too much I expect

[Kern Dog]

I had SOME luck..... There were a few Narva sites but I had trouble getting prices. I looked at a few other brands. Hella, Cibie AND Narva. I emailed Daniel Stern lighting about the threshold where the relay upgrade becomes mandatory. I have heard good things about him, so maybe he can also be of help. I may just go with some 55L 60H type H4 units. I think that it would be a nice step up from the 35/55.

[Bob T]

I had SOME luck..... There were a few Narva sites but I had trouble getting prices. I looked at a few other brands. Hella, Cibie AND Narva. I emailed Daniel Stern lighting about the threshold where the relay upgrade becomes mandatory. I have heard good things about him, so maybe he can also be of help. I may just go with some 55L 60H type H4 units. I think that it would be a nice step up from the 35/55.

Good news then 

I remember I had to make up short flyleads ( male -female ) to go from the oem 3 pin connector to the lamp and from the double connector to the lamp as the pin spacing/configuration is different and then wrapped the joint in self amalgamating tape to seal the joint and tied it back with cable ties to keep it out of the way of the rotating light bucket assembly assembly, other than that its a small price to pay ( and cheap upgrade )for way better driving at night

[68neverlate]

I checked on these before I got them and was assured that they draw the same amount of current as the oem ones thus negating relay installation  but the output is vastly improved. New generation lamp
Narva 50plus H4 48872BL2
Narva 50plus H1 48334BL2

http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/h4

I ran them in my last Charger for 2 years with no problems and then swapped them into my R/T

And yes, I would recommend relays if the new versions current rating exceeded the stock ones, I'm an Electrical Contractor by trade and take my car electrics fairly seriously too.
If you want to put in relays for peace of mind Red R/T , no problem , it will be a good thing for the electrical system in your car, just saying I checked mine before the purchase and install and didnt need too.

 Bob

Hmmm... interesting.   

I just assumed that the "improved" headlights would automatically be drawing more current.  Thanks for the info...     

[mhinders]

I checked on these before I got them and was assured that they draw the same amount of current as the oem ones thus negating relay installation  but the output is vastly improved. New generation lamp
Narva 50plus H4 48872BL2
Narva 50plus H1 48334BL2

http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/h4

I ran them in my last Charger for 2 years with no problems and then swapped them into my R/T

And yes, I would recommend relays if the new versions current rating exceeded the stock ones, I'm an Electrical Contractor by trade and take my car electrics fairly seriously too.
If you want to put in relays for peace of mind Red R/T , no problem , it will be a good thing for the electrical system in your car, just saying I checked mine before the purchase and install and didnt need too.

 Bob

Hmmm... interesting.   

I just assumed that the "improved" headlights would automatically be drawing more current.  Thanks for the info...     

I agree, very interesting...I have a hard time understanding how more power out would only require the old lower power in...
If you have an "old type" 55W lamp, and replace it with a 55W "improved type" lamp, it will still draw the same current. The new type might however emit more light than the old, but then it has to run cooler than the old one (less wasted heat energy), there is no other way to get improved light as far as I am aware (other than increasing the current consumption).

Put in the relays and sleep well!

[Chryco Psycho]

there are higher output lights with the same wattage but even with stock lights they are brighter using relays .

[Budnicks]

As most here agree relays are the way to go, even with the stock configuration lights, they will allow you to have a constant voltage & no voltage spikes, less amperage draw to thecharging system, they are so easy to install & are relatively cheap, a Boshe 30amp relay & some properly sized wire you can splice into the existing harness or make a adapter harness, Try , www.madelectrical.com , they have schematics/diagrams, relays, harnesses, fuseable links, connectors /terminals & tech tips, even for Mopars... Check the 1st thing in their tech. section is about brighter headlights, all good info, especially if your a electronics novice...

[70 Charger RT]

You can get improved lighting by using less current.  As an example, I replace the old T12 fluoescent light fixtures with T5 High Output in my job.  The technology is in the ballast and reflection of the lamp.  The old tubes have 12/8" diameter (thus the name T12) and the newer tubes have 8/8" (T8) and 5/8" (T5) diameter.  The smaller the tube, the better reflectivness of the light output.  I think what they are referring to above is the type of light used and the design of the reflection and shape of the lamp.  I agree that if you increase the wattage then the current HAS to go up.  I=V/R, W=I^2R.

[Bob T]

You can get improved lighting by using less current.  As an example, I replace the old T12 fluoescent light fixtures with T5 High Output in my job.  The technology is in the ballast and reflection of the lamp.  The old tubes have 12/8" diameter (thus the name T12) and the newer tubes have 8/8" (T8) and 5/8" (T5) diameter.  The smaller the tube, the better reflectivness of the light output.  I think what they are referring to above is the type of light used and the design of the reflection and shape of the lamp.  I agree that if you increase the wattage then the current HAS to go up.  I=V/R, W=I^2R.

Quite right. We've been doing a few T5 upgrades in printing press halls and cnc machine shops lately. Much more efficient and better lux and coverage