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Another one must go...

Started by Inked_Ghandi, March 24, 2012, 11:37:09 PM

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Inked_Ghandi

Sadly another charger must go to the crusher. While trying to take out the engine tonight, the rust on the frame got the better of it and it decided to break apart. I didn't want to see it go but once again I made the mistake of buying a car that I didn't have the funds for and I must throw money down the drain. Whoever sold me the car must be very happy with the money they got from me to go to the casinos. I will try to stay on as much as possible during an excellent engine rebuild but no promises.
"It doesn't matter if you win by an inch or a mile, winning is winning."

USAF AMMO

Fred

Oh no!! So sorry to hear it mate. Seems you can hardly trust anyone to do the right thing anymore....................just a bunch of thieves out there ripping you off where ever they can.
It's really sad.............you get all excited over the resto and wham! the bubble bursts.
That really is tough luck. I wish you better luck next time.  :cheers:
And for your sake.................don't buy unseen.


Tomorrow is promised to no one.......drive your Charger today.

terrible one

Ouch! That bad? Definitely hate to hear that. Is this the blue Charger in your avatar? Any pictures?

1970Moparmann

Places sell frame rails now a days.   If you want to save it, you can.   :2thumbs:
My name is Mike and I'm a Moparholic!

Inked_Ghandi

Yes that is mine in the avatar. But a fellow forum member photoshopped it really well for me to make it look that good. Here are some pics. Please don't shed any tears when yall see this.
"It doesn't matter if you win by an inch or a mile, winning is winning."

USAF AMMO

myk

Good God how does that happen to a car.  I can barely make out what any of that is.  As it's been said though, anything is fixable as long as you've got the money.  A body shop said that to me when I totaled my '69... ::)

Inked_Ghandi

that is the frame around the control arms on both sides. and I do not have that king of money. so I'm trying to sell it to make something back for it but if I don't I will junk it to get something at least.
"It doesn't matter if you win by an inch or a mile, winning is winning."

USAF AMMO

71green go

Sorry to hear this.........However you must not have examined that car very well...its rusted apart and easy to spot.......If your not familiar when shopping for a decent car have someone go with you that knows what to look for.
Again sorry man, but examine the next one really well and never trust what anyone is telling you....
Good Luck

Inked_Ghandi

sadly bought it sight unseen from eBay. I was deployed at the time and was just happy to be able  to get a muscle car again. I think it was from a forum member but not sure. it wasn't completely as described on the post. I even showed my wife the emails me and the guy had back and forth and she insists we sue him.
"It doesn't matter if you win by an inch or a mile, winning is winning."

USAF AMMO

myk

How long ago was this auction?  With that much deception it's so wrong that words can't do it justice...

Budnicks

To me, It sounds like a great candidate for a full chassis pro-touring, resto-rod, customized or race car, roll bar/cage & some tin work, if the body is anything like it looks in the Avatar... Best of luck selling, if you have to end up doing that... I wouldn't crush it unless it's a really bad & way beyond repair... You can always part it out for some of the parts engine, rear axle, trans, doors, glass, fenders, roof, quarters, dash, interior stuff, trim, lights & lenses, grill, hood, electronics, etc.... If the guy misrepresented the car especially while you were dealing with him while being deployed over in the desert, I would go after the guy for a partial refund if nothing else... How much did you pay for the car ??
"fill your library before you fill your garage"   Budnicks

Inked_Ghandi

I was thinking about parting it out but I don't know anyone who really wants or needs anything. And sadly I paid $3500 and that was for the shipping to my door. I guess I am young and was just overly excited about getting another muscle car for my own that it seemed like a good deal to me. I guess I really learned my lesson. And I can't seem to get a hold of the guy anymore. Very shady I guess. But it isn't like I am out to much money because I bought it with most of the extra cash I got because of deployment.
"It doesn't matter if you win by an inch or a mile, winning is winning."

USAF AMMO

Inked_Ghandi

Quote from: Budnicks on March 25, 2012, 05:20:55 PM
To me, It sounds like a great candidate for a full chassis pro-touring, resto-rod, customized or race car, roll bar/cage & some tin work, if the body is anything like it looks in the Avatar...

^^ How would I go about doing this? I would love to save the car. Not only because it is something different than the every day joe schmo drives but because the mopar community has been the most helpful to me throughout these past few months and I would like to have a reason to stick around.
"It doesn't matter if you win by an inch or a mile, winning is winning."

USAF AMMO

Budnicks

If you can find a chassis shop that will bend you up some frame rails get it in kit form &/or have them weld it together for you some of the more common kit compaies are like Alston Engineering or Chris Alston's Chassisworks, Art Morrison, Competition Engineering, Magnum Force Racing, etc., there are tons of them out there, you will need to do some serious research on your own, it doesn't have to be a chassis for a Mopar or Charger it could be for a Chevy, Ford, Dodge Ram, Dakota, S-10 truck car or what ever, it just needs to be the correct wheel base height, width & length, cut out the whole floor & chassis after supporting the main body structure, kind of starting from scratch, it's not really a great project for a beginner, BUT it can be done, you would have to supply them with the engine, rear axle, trans, suspension & radiator to even begin a project like that, then it would need to be tinned & finished on the interior, It's a really big undertaking, but a competent chassis shop/fabrication shop or at least someone who know how to weld & is good with chassis & suspension, sheet metal work & is the set ups could put together a 2"x3" box frame rail chassis pretty easily & then just have mounts for the BB Chrysler put in instead of the typical Chevy or Ford stuff... You could alway take a class in night school or jr. college or something like that also, it would be a great skill to have after your done with the military like you said you were earlier in other posts/threads... Good luck, I wish you the best, If you were anywere near me, I would help you, how ever I could...
"fill your library before you fill your garage"   Budnicks

Cooter

Quote from: myk on March 25, 2012, 03:39:49 PM
Good God how does that happen to a car.  I can barely make out what any of that is.  As it's been said though, anything is fixable as long as you've got the money.  A body shop said that to me when I totaled my '69... ::)

That's what we down here in the south refer to as a "Yankee car"...New England style. Snows 80 % of the year.
Salt jsut eats 'em up. On a side note, don't you guys get under these cars and look for sh*t like this? Rust like this is the FIRST thing we look for when someone brings us a used car to look over.
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

resq302

First thing I do when I go to look at a used car is put on a pair of crappy clothes so I can crawl all over under the car.  I may look like a bum but at least I know what I would be getting into! :lol:
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Inked_Ghandi

like I had mentioned above, I had purchased this through eBay while deployed so I was bot able to do what I usually do. and if I could put all the email traffic between the guy and myself you would see how I would have thought it wasn't as bad as it was. he was telling me with little work I should be able to drive it. I could if I wanted my driver seat scraping along the road or if I wanted my frame to bust while starting it up. it wasn't described even close to what it actually was.
"It doesn't matter if you win by an inch or a mile, winning is winning."

USAF AMMO

bakerhillpins

Don't let it tear you down. Save the car and see if you can find a shell and make the best of both.  :scratchchin:

When I was in High School I picked up a Jeep 76 CJ5, paid $3500 I recall and it was a POS and I lost $2900 as I had to sell it cuz mom wouldn't leave it in the yard for x more yrs while I went to College. It taught me a good lesson about taking my time and being patient when buying stuff. What doesn't kill you only makes you stronger!   :cheers:
One great wife (Life is good)
14 RAM 1500 5.7 Hemi Crew Cab (crap hauler)
69 Dodge Charger R/T, Q5, C6X, V1X, V88  (Life is WAY better)
96' VFR750 (Sweet)
Capt. Lyme Vol. Fire

"Inspiration is for amateurs - the rest of us just show up and get to work." -Chuck Close
"The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits." -Albert Einstein
Go that way, really fast. If something gets in your way, turn.
Science flies you to the moon, Religion flies you into buildings.

greenpigs

That is nasty looking.

Before turning it into a new camaro, how is the rest of the car?

If it is in similar shape then you might be better off stripping the car of anything worth saving. Don't sell squat till after you get a second Charger.

1) I doubt you will recoup enough to buy another Charger.
2) If you don't need the extra parts then sell them off.
1969 Charger RT


Living Chevy free

RallyeMike

You can buy a solid 73-74 for less than what it will cost to fix that rust. Start looking for a car that is a better starting point and save the rusty one for parts.
1969 Charger 500 #232008
1972 Charger, Grand Sport #41
1973 Charger "T/A"

Drive as fast as you want to on a public road! Click here for info: http://www.sscc.us/

Kern Dog

I saw the title to this and thought that it was about a White House Democrat.  :lol:

RallyeMike

QuoteI saw the title to this and thought that it was about a White House Democrat.   

QuotePlease remember: this is the place to discuss Chargers - NOT the place to discuss politics. Political posts will be locked or deleted at the Moderator's discretion.

The rule seems pretty simple.  :shruggy:   :rotz:
1969 Charger 500 #232008
1972 Charger, Grand Sport #41
1973 Charger "T/A"

Drive as fast as you want to on a public road! Click here for info: http://www.sscc.us/

PocketThunder

Quote from: RallyeMike on March 28, 2012, 04:42:10 PM
You can buy a solid 73-74 for less than what it will cost to fix that rust. Start looking for a car that is a better starting point and save the rusty one for parts.


:iagree:  Dont stick anymore money into this car, consider it a life lesson and move on to a better car to start with.

Here you go, this car is sweet!  http://rmn.craigslist.org/cto/2930297778.html

"Liberalism is a disease that attacks one's ability to understand logic. Extreme manifestations include the willingness to continue down a path of self destruction, based solely on a delusional belief in a failed ideology."


Budnicks

There's a guy here selling a 73 Charger looks decent for the $$$$$ , I think it is for $3500, has a 440 & auto out of a 72 I think it was, SixPackSid
"fill your library before you fill your garage"   Budnicks

Inked_Ghandi

It would be perfect but if I sell it I still won't have enough for it. I saw that one after I bought mine and almost cried.
"It doesn't matter if you win by an inch or a mile, winning is winning."

USAF AMMO