Clacking lifters

[Paul G]

About a year ago I started noticing a little lifter clatter at start up. It would clack a little then go away within a minute. I checked around and it seemed like it was not uncommon to clack at start up. Now the clatter is not going away. The lifter clatter is constant, mostly at idle, seems like it goes way when RPM go up, although it is hard to tell over the headers. I went in and adjusted the rockers a while back, they are Crane Gold adjustable rocker arms. Made no difference.

Are they getting enough oil? Oil pressure is around 30 PSI at idle, 60 at cruise. Can they totally collapse on me and grenade the engine?   

[c00nhunterjoe]

Hydraulic or solid cam? 

Whose manufacture?

You said you adjusted the rockers? What were the tolerances before you adjusted them and what did you set them to?

Are you running zddp additives in your oil?

[Budnicks]

If they are hydraulic lifters, Is the pre-load set correctly ??,  it could be just a colasped lifter also... maybe too thick of oil not getting to the parts quick enough when cold... Does it go away after it's warm ??,  Do the adjuster screws ball section on the Crane rockers have any signs of wear ??, or maybe even wore out, either the push rod cup or the adjuster screw... How many threads of the rockers adjuster are sticking out of the bottom of the rockers ??, there shouldn't be more than 3-4 threads max or it will have oil stavation problems at the cup & adjuster area {I had that happen before}, if you need more than that amount of threads sticking out to get the proper pre-load on the lifters, "you may need to go to a longer push-rods" or just add "lash caps on top of the valves"... good luck with the noise, just a couple of thoughts...

[Paul G]

Hydraulic or solid cam? 

Hydraulic cam.

Whose manufacture?

No idea who made them, I didnt build the engine.

You said you adjusted the rockers? What were the tolerances before you adjusted them and what did you set them to?

I followed a procedure that has you put the lifter at base circle and back off the adjustment, wait for the lifter spring to seat aginst the lock, tighten down till you feel resistance on the push rod, then go 1/2 to 1 full turn more and lock the adjustment down. Did it to all 16 a while back.

Are you running zddp additives in your oil?

I use Valvoline Racing 20w50 since I have had the car. No telling what the prev owner used?

[Paul G]

Does it go away after it's warm ??
No. It used to go away after a minute or less, not any more.

Do the adjuster screws ball section on the Crane rockers have any signs of wear ??, or maybe even wore out.
Very few miles on the engine since rebuild. They didnt show any wear last time I was in there. Clean looking inside the valve cover. No sludge, still looks freshly built even though it has been 11 years ago.

How many threads of the rockers adjuster are sticking out of the bottom of the rockers ??, there shouldn't be more than 3-4 threads max or it will have oil stavation problems at the cup & adjuster area {I had that happen before}, if you need more than that amount of threads sticking out to get the proper pre-load on the lifters, "you may need to go to a longer push-rods" or just add "lash caps on top of the valves"... good luck with the noise, just a couple of thoughts...

I will check those things out during the week.

I am wondering if I got a set of cheap Chinese lifters in there. I have been reading about poor quality stuff hitting the market. Were they around 11 years ago?

How do the lifters get oiled? Does splash oil just settle down in to the lifter from the top?

[c00nhunterjoe]

How long have you been driving on the valvoline oil? It does not have enough zinc and phosphorous and WILL wipe the cam. You may need to pull the intake and inspect for damage.

[Budnicks]

The lifters are part of the main oil system it gets fed from the oil pump & pick up in the pan, then thru the block to the lifters... The push rods & rockers are fed oil thru the rocker shafts to the rockers then to the push rod cups/adjuster ball tips & rollers....  

[Paul G]

How long have you been driving on the valvoline oil? It does not have enough zinc and phosphorous and WILL wipe the cam. You may need to pull the intake and inspect for damage.

I have been using it for two years. I have some pics from the intake swap I did last year. Less than 1000 miles ago. I can see a wear pattern on the lobes. Is that normal for an engine with less than 6000 miles on it? Or, is that from lack of proper lubricant? Keep in mind this isnt Grandmas grocery getter any more. those 6000 miles have been fun filled miles for the owners. Me and the other guy.

[firefighter3931]

I have some pics from the intake swap I did last year. Less than 1000 miles ago. I can see a wear pattern on the lobes. Is that normal for an engine with less than 6000 miles on it? Or, is that from lack of proper lubricant? Keep in mind this isnt Grandmas grocery getter any more. those 6000 miles have been fun filled miles for the owners. Me and the other guy.

That looks like a normal wear pattern to me Paul.  I'd pull the valvecovers to see if you have excessive play in the valvetrain which might indicate a bad cam lobe(s) or mushroomed lifters. If the pushrods seem snug then it's probably bad (partially collapsed) lifters.

In any case you need to run a good oil with an EP additive. The VR1 is descent but it wouldn't hurt to use something like ZZDP+ to boost the additive package. 

Did you see 471 Magnum's thread on the wiped cam ?

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,89312.0.html



Ron

[c00nhunterjoe]

Those rockers sure are pretty! A lot can happen in a thousand miles. I still say an inspection is due. I agree, start with pulling the valve covers and go from there.

[Paul G]

That broken lifter really scares me. Valve covers will come off this week and do another adjustment check, count the threads, etc. I have had the intake off three times now. Here is a stupid question. Does the intake to head gasket have to be replaced every time I pull the intake?

[c00nhunterjoe]

Don't just jump into the adjustment. Set each cylinder up but check them first. Look for any play, see if you can wigle the rocker on the shaft or move the roller. 

Ideally you probably should replace the valley pan since it does crush when you install it but I have reused mine many, many times without leaks. I use ford's 7.3 diesel silicone as well. Its the best silicone made and its un affected by fuel and oil. A bit pricey but well worth it.

[firefighter3931]

As Joe suggested check each valve individually and make sure the lifter is on the base circle (heel) of the lobe. You're looking for vertical movement or something that would suggest that there's a loosening of the pre-load. 

I allways use new intake gaskets.....leaks are a PITA 



Ron

[471_Magnum]

No valley pan. It's a small block.

[Paul G]

As Joe suggested check each valve individually and make sure the lifter is on the base circle (heel) of the lobe. You're looking for vertical movement or something that would suggest that there's a loosening of the pre-load. 

I allways use new intake gaskets.....leaks are a PITA 



Ron

Is it normal to be able to push the push rod back in to the lifter? Last time when I adjusted the rockers I was able to push the push rod back in to the lifter on some of them. Just assumed they had bled down or something like that.

[c00nhunterjoe]

If you can grab the rocker and collapse the likfter then they are bad

[Paul G]

If you can grab the rocker and collapse the likfter then they are bad

Sounds like the intake is coming off again! Man I am starting to hate that job. Can I just install new lifters on the existing cam? Do I have to do a cam break in?

[Challenger340]

I've been trying to cover off on this problem in a few posts, lotta crap offshore chinese hydraulic lifter bodies out there the last few years, being reboxed in EVERYBODY's boxes...right from CompCams on down to Lunati, engle, and you name who...just plain shiatty valving internally.
ONLY hydraulic lifters to buy,
IMO,
are GENUINE Topline Johnson Hylift, AMERICAN MADE in Muskegon Mi, by contacting them directlty.

I've gotten pretty good at recognizing the chinese stuff visually, or, if you prefer for yourself, you can dis-assemble and find the offending chink crap by dis-assembling and noting the "check-Ball" style valving...
instead of....
a "wafer style" that actually WORKS and doesn't bleed down manufactured by Johnson.

[firefighter3931]

If you can grab the rocker and collapse the likfter then they are bad

Sounds like the intake is coming off again! Man I am starting to hate that job. Can I just install new lifters on the existing cam? Do I have to do a cam break in?

Yes, you can install new lifters on an older cam but you still have to break them in ; 2000-2500 for 20 minutes.  


Ron

[c00nhunterjoe]

Or swap to mechanical and never look back.....   

[dodgedarren]

Is Royal Purple good oil to run with hydrolic lifters??

[Paul G]

I found Topline's website, will order from them unless...... on Summit's website they have a Rhoads lifter which sounds interesting. Are they more of the same off shore junk? Or something to not bother with? They say they reduce lift and duration at lower RPM which increases low rpm torque, but get it all back at 3500. Whats up with them?

"Rhoads Original hydraulic flat tappet variable duration lifters are famous for increasing low-end torque, engine vacuum, and idle quality on engines equipped with performance hydraulic cams, while maintaining maximum top-end power. Better fuel economy and improved emissions quality are often reported by customers with Rhoads lifters. The unique construction of Rhoads Original hydraulic lifters reduces lift and duration at idle by approximately .010 in. to .020 in. Duration is reduced by approximately 10 to 15 degrees. Total lift and duration are restored at approximately 3,500 rpm. Original Rhoads lifters are also anti-pump-up for higher rpm revs. Typical vacuum increases range between 1 and 3 in. Rhoads lifters can be used with either adjustable or non-adjustable valvetrains. Original Rhoads lifters, with their legendary "ticking" at idle, sound similar to solid lifters. These Rhoads Original series lifters are designed for use with high performance street, marine, or racing applications."

[Paul G]

And I got to "get r dun" by April 12th!

[471_Magnum]

I just received a set from Topline. Excellent pricing. 4 bucks for the standard lifter. 5.39 for the race.

[Challenger340]

I found Topline's website, will order from them unless...... on Summit's website they have a Rhoads lifter which sounds interesting. Are they more of the same off shore junk? Or something to not bother with? They say they reduce lift and duration at lower RPM which increases low rpm torque, but get it all back at 3500. Whats up with them?

"Rhoads Original hydraulic flat tappet variable duration lifters are famous for increasing low-end torque, engine vacuum, and idle quality on engines equipped with performance hydraulic cams, while maintaining maximum top-end power. Better fuel economy and improved emissions quality are often reported by customers with Rhoads lifters. The unique construction of Rhoads Original hydraulic lifters reduces lift and duration at idle by approximately .010 in. to .020 in. Duration is reduced by approximately 10 to 15 degrees. Total lift and duration are restored at approximately 3,500 rpm. Original Rhoads lifters are also anti-pump-up for higher rpm revs. Typical vacuum increases range between 1 and 3 in. Rhoads lifters can be used with either adjustable or non-adjustable valvetrains. Original Rhoads lifters, with their legendary "ticking" at idle, sound similar to solid lifters. These Rhoads Original series lifters are designed for use with high performance street, marine, or racing applications."

I don't believe a damn thing I read on the internet anymore.......bunch of horsepituee IMO, pure & simple !

Here is a fine example.....from an otherwise fine Cam Company like Lunati....

Go to the Lunati website, and read up in the BB Mopar section, about how WONDERFUL their "Micro-Trol" Hydraulic Lifters are for High rpm, blah, blah, valvetrain stability, blah blah, anti pump up, blah blah....
THEN
phone Lunati and actually ask them about their wonderful "Micro-Trol" super Lifters for BB Mopar applications....
the short answer(if pressed or if anybody is honest that day without being caught lying)
is that Lunati.....actually.... DO NOT have any such product for a BB Mopar..... and are simply RE-BOXING the offshore Chinese crap from EATON in Lunati Boxes.
True story...go check for yourself.

IMO,
quit believing all that "salesmans bluster", which is the legal term that absolves sellers back into the realm of "Buyer beware", and just go buy a Lifter THAT works...being the Topline Johnson...
and forget wonder claims from Rhoads or anybody else...it is afterall...a frigging HYDRAULIC Lifter for crissakes.

[Paul G]

Ordered the Topline Johnson lifters today. Thanks all for your help.

BTW, I still have the old Magnum cam and lifters I pulled out of the 73 440 a few years ago. Those lifters had a little clatter to them as well. Got the old lifters out of the box and checked them. Found four out of the 16 that would collapse when the cup is pressed in. The rest would not collapse. Curious?

[404NOTFOUND]

One of my lifters just went. The lifter was worn concave and had a hole in it. Has anyone ever seen this before?

[c00nhunterjoe]

Rockers too tight, wrong oil, or faulty lifter

[firefighter3931]

One of my lifters just went. The lifter was worn concave and had a hole in it. Has anyone ever seen this before?

Seen lots of those unfortunately 

What were you using for oil ?



Ron

[404NOTFOUND]

I have used a couple different synthetic oils. The latest one was Amsoil Signature Series 10w30.  I thinking of giving Royal Purple a try. Any thoughts on that? That oil has zinc in it right?

[471_Magnum]

One of my lifters just went. The lifter was worn concave and had a hole in it. Has anyone ever seen this before?

Unfortunately, I'm all to familiar with the failure mode...
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,89312.msg1011668.html#msg1011668

[Highbanked Hauler]

One of my lifters just went. The lifter was worn concave and had a hole in it. Has anyone ever seen this before?

Unfortunately, I'm all to familiar with the failure mode...
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,89312.msg1011668.html#msg1011668

     and all those metal fileings are being pushed all through the motor I'd guess

[firefighter3931]

I have used a couple different synthetic oils. The latest one was Amsoil Signature Series 10w30.  I thinking of giving Royal Purple a try. Any thoughts on that? That oil has zinc in it right?

I know RP Racing oil has lots of Zinc/Phos but the standard Royal Purple does not. The bad news is that your engine has sustained some damage to the oilpump/bearings/crank journals/cylinder walls and should be torn down for an inspection at the very least. Those metal filings have worked their way through the engine. Sorry 


Ron

[471_Magnum]

     and all those metal fileings are being pushed all through the motor I'd guess

Yep. Had to hone the block, grind the crank, replace all the bearings and rings. Piston skirts are scuffed, but salvageable. Still trying to find the time to reassemble it all.

[Paul G]

Put the new lifters in today. Doing the pre load adjustment on #6 cylinder the adjuster bolt snapped right off on me. Crane gold rockers. I am so glad it flew away from the engine and not down a hole. Got to try and find another adjuster bolt now.   

All of the old lifters coming out looked really good actually. Nothing like the horror in the pics in this thread.

[firefighter3931]

Put the new lifters in today. Doing the pre load adjustment on #6 cylinder the adjuster bolt snapped right off on me. Crane gold rockers. I am so glad it flew away from the engine and not down a hole. Got to try and find another adjuster bolt now.   

All of the old lifters coming out looked really good actually. Nothing like the horror in the pics in this thread.

Paul, a number of years ago there was a run of bad adjusters on the crane rocker arms. Snapping off an adjuster means yours are suspect. 

Call Smith Brothers and order 16 replacements....don't chance it. 


Ron

[471_Magnum]

I had a bolt break on my Crane ductiles last year with the motor running. Discovered it while checking he pre-load after noticing an increase in lifter noise.  Luckily, both halves of the adjuster stayed on the rocker.

Replaced them all will a set from Smith Bros.

[Paul G]

http://www.pushrods.net/

Is this them? Up in Bend Oregon.

[471_Magnum]

http://www.pushrods.net/

Is this them? Up in Bend Oregon.

Yep. Just give them a call. It's about [edit] $75 delivered for a set IIRC.

[404NOTFOUND]

I'm now convinced the problem was the oil. This week I'm gonna pull all the lifters and check them. I'll post my findings. I'm also gonna switch to the new Royal Purple HPS which is loaded with Zinc and more. It was not until now that I realized how serious this oil situation really is. Thanks for all the help.

[404NOTFOUND]

Ok. Another update. This time I pulled out all the lifters to check them. All were as perfect as new except for the one that I had replaced earlier. That one was already partially ground down. I just bought another replacement, box says Clevite Made in USA and I just changed the oil to Royal Purple HPS. I'm gonna try again with the new oil but, because it is always the same single lifter only, I'm thinking there is a different problem. Any ideas? Thanks.

[resq302]

Dumb question, but when you put the new lifters in, did you put assembly oil on the cam and also on the sides of the lifter?  If you say that the lifter is starting to grind down, it seems like there is either too much pressure on that lifter or the lifter is not rotating in the bore.

[404NOTFOUND]

Dumb question, but when you put the new lifters in, did you put assembly oil on the cam and also on the sides of the lifter?  If you say that the lifter is starting to grind down, it seems like there is either too much pressure on that lifter or the lifter is not rotating in the bore.

Yup, I used assembly lube and ran the engine at around 2000 rpm for 15 minutes but, I was still on the wrong and somewhat dirty oil. Lets assume for a minute that the same lobe on the cam is partially worn down. Would there be something about that lobe that would destroy a new lifter in mere minutes? I'm hoping to find a cause before I ruin another lifter or should I just try again with the new oil?

[Paul G]

Did you swap out the cam along with the new lifter? The lobe that ground up that old lifter will grind up any new lifter it mates to now. 

[404NOTFOUND]

Did you swap out the cam along with the new lifter? The lobe that ground up that old lifter will grind up any new lifter it mates to now. 

No. That is the reality I'm hoping to avoid. A new cam is not an expensive problem but is a lot of work at the wrong time of year. I'm gonna try once more and see what happens.

[440]

I've run standard Royal Purple for years without any problems but after all these stories of cams going flat I'm definatley going to add a zinc additive.

[404NOTFOUND]

Ok, it's a whole new ball game now. It appears that the cause of the problem is that my stock, stamped rocker arms are beat to rat s**t.  If you look at the pics below, you will see that the shaft hole in the rocker is egg shaped. I know that stamped stock rockers are pretty sloppy but, this can't be right.  Also, you can see that the face of the lifter is not ground down.  Instead, it is beaten into a concave shape. All my rockers are a bit egg shaped but, especially this one and I know why. I'll spare you the long story about how I once needed one replacement rocker. A friend of a friend once gave me a handful of rockers to get my car up and running.  I installed one of them and I think it is the one in the photo as the others he gave me are almost as bad.  Those stock rockers are terribly loose on the shaft and it makes sense to me that this would result in battering of the lifter and a big loss of valve lift.  I'm guessing the stiffer springs on my new Eddy heads finally did them in.  Tommorrow, I'm getting some Harland Sharps roller rockers and better push rods.  I wanted to get your opinions as well as warn everyone of a possible problem. Has anyone else seen this?  This is not a good time for me to blow more money on the valvetrain but, it sure beats changing my cam which I now believe is ok.

[Challenger340]

IMO,
Whatever cam Lobe was running the above Lifter in the photo, will NOT survive by just installing another Lifter, waste of time trying, it is POOCHED....and time for a new Cam.

[471_Magnum]

IMO,
Whatever cam Lobe was running the above Lifter in the photo, will NOT survive by just installing another Lifter, waste of time trying, it is POOCHED....and time for a new Cam.

I agree. Bite the bullet. Replace the cam.

The reality is you've probably got bigger troubles. Drop the pan and remove a main cap for inspection. Chances are the bearings are toast from the cam/lifter metal. It's a bitch.

[firefighter3931]

IMO,
Whatever cam Lobe was running the above Lifter in the photo, will NOT survive by just installing another Lifter, waste of time trying, it is POOCHED....and time for a new Cam.

I agree. Bite the bullet. Replace the cam.

The reality is you've probably got bigger troubles. Drop the pan and remove a main cap for inspection. Chances are the bearings are toast from the cam/lifter metal. It's a bitch.

Said the same thing earlier in this thread. The engine needs to come apart and inspected/repaired. Continually throwing new parts at it will only be wasting more money. I wouldn't wait until the engine seizes or kicks a rod out the side of the block. 



Ron

[404NOTFOUND]

I generally agree but, a bigger tear down is not in the works right now. I can see and feel the cam and I think it's fine. I've been running 46 year old, stamped rockers and push rods on a high lift cam and more recently, stiffer valve springs at high rpms. Clearly, roller rockers and pushrods were my next move and if something else fails, I will still need those parts anyway. There has never been a any sign of trouble deeper in the engine. In this case, it's worth it for me to continue. I'm not dealing with a numbers matching engine or expensive hemi. Being a long time drag racer, I don't feel defeated when I blow major parts. I see it as an opportunity to learn more as I repair the problem. I should be up and running later today. I will post the results. Thanks.

[firefighter3931]

I don't feel defeated when I blow major parts. I see it as an opportunity to learn more as I repair the problem. I should be up and running later today. I will post the results. Thanks.

Good luck. Lets hope yours doesn't end up like this one ! 



Ron

[Challenger340]

Good Luck with your repairs.....

No offense intended...
and,
Seeing as how nobody minds "blowing parts" ? or further damages incurred as a result of furthe teardown "not in the cards right now" ?

Can we have a "longevity" pool for those of us that have seen this a hundred times before, with the same result ?

I'm all in .....at within 20 miles before whatever Cam Lobe was running that Lifter begins "clacking" again

[404NOTFOUND]

Good Luck with your repairs.....

No offense intended...
and,
Seeing as how nobody minds "blowing parts" ? or further damages incurred as a result of furthe teardown "not in the cards right now" ?

Can we have a "longevity" pool for those of us that have seen this a hundred times before, with the same result ?

I'm all in .....at within 20 miles before whatever Cam Lobe was running that Lifter begins "clacking" again

[1970Moparmann]

Wow, keep us updated.

[404NOTFOUND]

Good Luck with your repairs.....

No offense intended...
and,
Seeing as how nobody minds "blowing parts" ? or further damages incurred as a result of furthe teardown "not in the cards right now" ?

Can we have a "longevity" pool for those of us that have seen this a hundred times before, with the same result ?

I'm all in .....at within 20 miles before whatever Cam Lobe was running that Lifter begins "clacking" again

Wow, that pic above is the worst destruction I've seen. I'm sure he had bigger problems than me though. Yes, that lifter could fail again but, it is a problem that is easily detected especially because the rest of the once noisy valvetrain should now be rather quiet. I just got back from Mancini Racing in Michigan with new Harland Sharps roller rockers and chrome moly push rods. No matter what happens, I'm gonna need em anyway. I will probably be testing tommorrow after the rain stops. Place your bets.

[Paul G]

I think my problem is solved. New lifters are in. Rocker adjuster bolts taken care of. Set preload to zero plus 3/4 turn more using the EO-IC method. Tried 1/2 turn the first time and they still ticked a bit. Drove around today and all is well. We will see if I still get a lot of "clacking" at cold start like before. So far no oil leaks either. 

On a side note, could the lifters be fished out of the engine through the head without pulling the intake? I noticed the holes in the heads looked almost big enough to get a lifter through. Curiously, I put a magnet on a lifter and it came up out of the bore, then I decided to stop before I make more work for myself like having to pull the intake off again to get a lifter back in the bore.

Thanks guys!

[471_Magnum]

On a side note, could the lifters be fished out of the engine through the head without pulling the intake? I noticed the holes in the heads looked almost big enough to get a lifter through.

There is a tool out there for doing this. I've got one. Never tried it on a Mopar though, so I'm not sure if the lifter will fit through the head.

[heal0048]

One of my lifters just went. The lifter was worn concave and had a hole in it. Has anyone ever seen this before?

I would definitely check the lifter bore for damage and make sure the new lifter rotates.  You should not put break-in lube on the sides of lifters... only the bottom.  I would also prime the oiling system while checking the flow to that lifter.  Good luck!

[1BAD68]

On a side note, could the lifters be fished out of the engine through the head without pulling the intake?

Technically yes, I have the tool and swapped lifter's in a Dodge van with a 318 years ago. It was a pain but can be done.

[Chryco Psycho]

On a side note, could the lifters be fished out of the engine through the head without pulling the intake? I noticed the holes in the heads looked almost big enough to get a lifter through. Curiously, I put a magnet on a lifter and it came up out of the bore, then I decided to stop before I make more work for myself like having to pull the intake off again to get a lifter back in the bore.

Thanks guys!

Absolutley , I have often done this , a good strong magnet & a long screwdriver & you can pull all the lifters & replace them through the head .

[Budnicks]

I don't feel defeated when I blow major parts. I see it as an opportunity to learn more as I repair the problem. I should be up and running later today. I will post the results. Thanks.

Good luck. Lets hope yours doesn't end up like this one ! 



Ron

DAMN Now that's is some carnage

[404NOTFOUND]

Problem solved!!! The car is running perfectly. Just like Paul G., I did a half turn on the adjustment and still had a bit of noise. I went home and whipped of the valve covers right away and did a quarter turn more. The engine is perfectly quiet now and runs great. The rockers are 1.6 ratio meaning I now have .543 lift and 292 duration. It seems to be making more power now but, the roads were only 80% dry so I couldn't test it for the full effect. The problem was a severely beaten rocker arm. I never thought the stock rockers were much good but now, I realize what supreme junk they are. They may be good enough to send a New Yorker or motorhome down the road but have no place in a performance engine.

[Paul G]

Well the ticking was still there with 3/4 turn preload. Called Topline yesterday and talked to a guy name Dave. Dave said to readjust them back to 1/4 turn. He asked what cam and springs I was using. I don't know. He said that if I have a high lift cam and stiff springs, that could be causing the ticking. He suggested I try 1/4 turn and see what happens. So readjusted them to 1/4 turn. I took the car out to cruise night last night and it seems like the ticking is mostly gone. Still hard to tell, header ting is hard to differentiate from lifter tick. 

I will say though with the new lifters the engine idles smoother and feels better when cruising. Although it runs better with a fresh shine too. 

[firefighter3931]

I will say though with the new lifters the engine idles smoother and feels better when cruising.

Mission accomplished...nice work ! 


Ron