Anyone had a custom driveshaft made?

[Charger1973]

What did it cost? 

[Ghoste]

I've had it done a couple of times and I would have to find a receipt to tell you for sure but it seems to me, the last time I paid less than 200 including U-joints.  (about 3 or 4 years ago)

[Lurker]

i had one built for my 4x4 last summer, 1350 series u-joints, 35degree double cardon CV joint and a new yoke for my dana 60 cost me less than $500

[Charger1973]

Doesnt sound too bad... Right now im just weighing out all the options. Im fine with the one I have for now but if I dont locate the right one i'll eventually want to have one made.  I dont want to run the conversion U-joints forever.  Do you guys know if its a different driveshaft if I decided to switch from auto to a 4 speed? 

[tecmopar]

My sons 240 SX Carbon Fiber D.S. cost us 730.00 complete with new U-joints. Was it worth it, who knows.

[Chatt69chgr]

I believe the driveshaft lenght will be the same for auto or 4-speed-----of course small block and big block driveshafts are different lengths.  All of the slip yokes I have taken out of C-bodys are 7290's.  I don't know what came std on a B-body big block transmission.  The 8-3/4 rear ends can have either a 7260 or 7290 pinion yoke.  You have to measure yours to see what you have-----2-1/8 inch ID for 7260 and 2-5/8 ID for 7290.  Of course you could always convert over to 1350 yokes if you wanted to have the strongest setup.  I was quoted $200 to have a complete driveshaft made which was 3-1/4 OD and balanced.  This was just for the shaft and the 7290 weld yokes welded on.  Didn't include any slip yokes or U-joints.  But I thought it was a good price.  Particularly since I couldn't find a correct length driveshaft at any junkyards and the place that did have a lot of them (a MOPAR guy) wanted $125 for a old used one.  I would have to have had it checked for balance.

[41husk]

When I changed my tranny and rear end on the Challenger, the drive shaft was to long.  Rather than fork the money out to have one built, i had mine cut down cost $30 and works great , I can't tell its not stock.

[supserdave]

I would just get one cut. I've watched guys cut them at home and weld 'em back together, but you need to have the precise amount of beers to get the correct balance, or they vibrate so I'm told. 

I would try and find one and get it cut down, Is there a Sadler powertrain over your way? They do all of our work up here, there out of Cedar Falls, and theres one in Cedar Rapids. Pretty reasonable and quick turn around.

[supserdave]

The other thing I thought of over your way is JR motorsports. If you didn't mind it not looking stock, they could make you whatever you wanted I bet.

[Nacho-RT74]

Damn!! that is pricey... definitivelly lot cheaper down here

[Charger1973]

The other thing I thought of over your way is JR motorsports. If you didn't mind it not looking stock, they could make you whatever you wanted I bet.

Cool I will check into them.  I dont care about stock look especially on stuff like that.   

Mine works and is the right length, I just dont like to have mismatched U joints. 

I have cut one down at home and shortened it before and it worked fine but I dont know how.  I would think it should have rattled like crazy because I had no way of knowing if it was balanced or not. 

[Chatt69chgr]

You can't cut down C-body drive shafts but you can B-body ones.  But if yours is the right length now, then you would be talking about removing a weldment yoke and reinstalling another one.  Removing one might not be easy.  I guess it depends on how it's welded on.  You would have to grind the welds off.

[Charger1973]

You can't cut down C-body drive shafts but you can B-body ones.  But if yours is the right length now, then you would be talking about removing a weldment yoke and reinstalling another one.  Removing one might not be easy.  I guess it depends on how it's welded on.  You would have to grind the welds off.

Yep my driveshaft is the right length, but its made for the small U joints. The 8 3/4 I just installed has a yoke for the large U joints.  Im just going to buy the conversion U joint for the time being but I want them to be a standard size by the next time I need to replace them. 

Are the larger ones stronger?  Im not sure why they used 2 different sizes?  I could maybe locate a yoke for the 8 3/4 with a small U joint easier than a driveshaft for the large U joint but if the larger ones stronger then thats the way I want to go...  even if it means customizing it. 

[71_Charger_R/T]

Hi, I work at a Driveline shop. It would all depend on a few variables,what size and length and wall thickness tube you have or need and if you have the slip yoke you want to use, also what joints you would like (spicer or aftermarket) . If you would like a pretty precise estimate of what it would cost, you can call with your specs to  1-800-521-5143 Mon - Fri 8:00-5:00 CST Ask for Torey. He can give you an estimate including shipping. You probably would get it next day to Iowa via UPS.

[punisher054]

Depends on if you are wanting a steel or aluminum shaft...regular steel brand new balanced and ready to run should be 200-300, depending on U-Joints. I have had better luck with the brute strength joints, downside is no grease fitting!

[moparguy01]

I cut down the driveshaft on the shop dually at work when we converted it from a service bed to a standard 8' bed (sectioned 6.5" out the middle of the frame and about 5.5" or so off the rear) i just cut right in the middle of the weld,knocked it loose, used a chop saw to make sure to cut it straight to where i need it, reinsert the yoke, bevel the old edges, and weld er up using a vice as a holder while i rotate it and weld. it doesnt vibrate anymore than any other chevy truck i've ever driven.

[Charger1973]

Thanks guys.  I probably wont call yet because I dont have the cash for one.  Its not exactly top priority yet but when I do I will call you guys first.   

[mopar0166]

What everything think about a small block shaft with 1350 yoke.  i got a bigger yoke because this summer we are dropping in a 440 instead of a 318.  I was going to have the small block shaft balanced any way could they accomidate the bigger u joint for the rear and what might be involved?  Any advice would be greatly appreicated