rear glass

[C928BRAN]

i want to try to put in my rear glass, any suggestions on the best way to do this? how far does it need to set down, to make the trim fit right? what kind of sealant do i use? things like that.
thanks for any help, craig

[bill440rt]

The factory used buytl tape, 3/8" thick if memory serves correct.
You'll need some glass wedges for the bottom as well, which will hold it in place at the proper height from the filler deck panel.

Lots of glass guys now use liquid urethane with a pinchweld primer.

[Patronus]

Spend the $200 and watch. 

[C928BRAN]

I saw some polyurethane in a tube today, at lowes. is this the same thing?

[bill440rt]

I saw some polyurethane in a tube today, at lowes. is this the same thing?

Without seeing the actual tube, it's hard to give a definitive answer. More than likely, no. They sell household sealants, you'd find automotive glass urethane at an auto body supply store.
If you're not sure what you are doing or have never done one before, it's not a job that you want to do twice.
In my area my glass guy charged $125 to install.

[montana bird]

Don't let people scare you. I am am a believer you read about it talk to good sources, and try it. you do not want urethane. You can do it that way, but is not required. New cars use urethane, It is a glue that is like a hard rubber when it dries. New cars use urethane because the glass is figured into the car as strength in crashes. I could go farther in this but why? Butyl rubber is Black and is kinda like plumbers putty on a rope, and very sticky. 3m makes it, and any parts house will have it. I repeat do not use urethane if you are doing this yourself, If you have to take out the window with urethane you will need a recip knife. Butyl is easy to work with. It is how mother mopar put it in, Easy to cut out with no special tools, Why over engineer the way it was.   I have no problem with guys that want to urethane there back window in, Most of them do not know any different. But the next guy that wants to take that window out and save it has a 50/50 shot with urethane, been There many times in the glass shop, lots of  time and lube.  I install windows this is the easy one to do. The front takes more skill to get a perfect leak proof job. Good luck

[C928BRAN]

So do i just get that box that comes in a roll, from the parts store, that is a 3/8 bead, and if so do i need to use the pinchweld primer on it? how do i keep it the right heigth also, for installing the trim?

thanks for all of the feedback, craig

[bill440rt]

Yep, that's the stuff. You shouldn't need a pinchweld primer with it. Apply it evenly while you are unrolling it & try not to stretch it. The thickness of the butyl will set the height of the glass.
IIRC the spacers were 1/4" thick. They may be in the box with the butyl, or can be purchased separately.

[jaak]

So do i just get that box that comes in a roll, from the parts store, that is a 3/8 bead, and if so do i need to use the pinchweld primer on it? how do i keep it the right heigth also, for installing the trim?

thanks for all of the feedback, craig

Get the 5/16" , 3/8" will be too thick and will probably give you trouble reinstalling the trim. I know if you buy 3M brand it comes with the spacers that Bill was talking about.

Good luck,
Jason

[bill440rt]

Just checked the FSM...
Spacers are 1/4". The procedure outlined in the FSM is to apply a 3/8" bead of sealer out of a gun, which leads one to believe a urethane type sealer is to be used in conjunction with a pinchweld primer (also mentioned in the FSM). However, on the assembly line they were definitely put in by butyl.
If a 3/8" bead is applied, 5/16" thick butyl sounds logical because it would squish a little once the glass is set in place.

[C928BRAN]

So, no primer, just stick straight to painted pinchweld, and then lay the clean glass on top, and just push it down? and i do need the 5/16, and not the 3/8? the blocks that come with it is for holding the glass centered in the frame, not put on the pinchweld, with the butyl, right. sorry for so many questions, just want to make sure i do it right the first time, i hate to do things twice.

thanks, craig

[jaak]

So, no primer, just stick straight to painted pinchweld, and then lay the clean glass on top, and just push it down? and i do need the 5/16, and not the 3/8? the blocks that come with it is for holding the glass centered in the frame, not put on the pinchweld, with the butyl, right. sorry for so many questions, just want to make sure i do it right the first time, i hate to do things twice.

thanks, craig

Yes use 5/16" butyl tape. I know the 3M brand comes with the rubber spacer blocks (2 of them). On the pinch weld primer, A guy I trust that has restored numerous cars for a living, told me the only time he used pinchweld primer is when just replacing the glass. He told me when doing a complete restore and your pinch weld area has been cleaned, and is finished with new paint, you can skip that step if you want to....but a small bottle of it isn't very expensive, 12-13 bucks IIRC.

Installing.... First and formost...make sure you have window trim clips installed!! Place the rubber blocks on the bottom of glass opening (17" each side of center, according to FSM), then sit glass in place WITHOUT butyl tape. Make sure you center glass in opening (side-to-side), then place a couple of strips of masking tape at the top, sides and bottom to use as a guide when installing. Remove glass (2 suction cups well be VERY helpful, and u need a friend to help you). Install butyl on pinchweld area all the way around the opening. Then lift glass and sit in place using the masking tape you left as a guide. Push down firmly around perimeter of glass, Then install trim. There was a couple of pieces that didn't pop right on, so I used a plastic block and a body hammer to 'pop' it in. Some people use urethane, which is fine (and all glass companies use urethane exclusively now) because urethane is required for newer vehicles that have airbags. The original butyl tape lasted 25 years in my car with no problems, so that's what I decided to reinstall it with.

Nothing to it, the wife and I installed it in 45 minutes or so...


Good luck  
Jason

[Chatt69chgr]

And the vinyl top has to be installed first since the vinyl laps over & down to the edge of the pinch weld and the trim clips install over the top of the vinyl--------I think.


A previous thread had the p/n for the 3M 5/16 butyl rubber kit with the two plastic spacers as I recall.

[C928BRAN]

I got the napa brand butyl tape, will it be just as good as the 3m? i couldnt find the 3m in the 5/16, only 3/8, and napa had it in the 5/16.

craig

[montana bird]

You will be just fine with napa. Now get er done.

[AmadeusCharger500]

Great information, Im tagging this thread as I will be going through this very soon.

[jaak]

Yeah Napa brand should be fine, does it have the spacers also? If not you got to have them. Ok I'm off work with a bad back so I made a quick MS drawing to explain what I was instructing in my previous post. Its just a quick drawing not to scale.

Good luck installing 
Jason

[green69rt]

An old shop teacher told me that there are no stupid questions so here's mine.  The rear glass is curved, is it installed with the bulge out (convex) or bulge in (concave?)

[Troy]

An old shop teacher told me that there are no stupid questions so here's mine.  The rear glass is curved, is it installed with the bulge out (convex) or bulge in (concave?)

Out.

Troy

[montana bird]

Good job jaak! 

[NHCharger]

I've installed two rear windows, one with the tape, one with urethane. With the tape make sure it's nice and warm so the window will seat in all the way around on the tape. I let the window set for a few days and then dumped several buckets of water on the window to make sure there were no leaks before I installed the window trim.

[The70RT]

Just bookmarking this page since I'm about ready to install mine.