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Newb Torqueflight 727 Transmission Question

Started by Surf Charger, March 01, 2012, 11:22:17 PM

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Surf Charger

My 727 torqueflight feels like its not going into gear. Its parked in the garage, but when I try to reverse, I give it a lot of gas but it only reverses just a little. Now I did lose some tranny fluid when I replaced my neutral safety switch.

Question 1: Would a low level of tranny fluid cause the transmission to act almost like you are barely letting out a clutch just enough to where it barely starts moving? I'm sure its a stupid question and I apologize ahead of time...I'm just not used to Chryslers and this is my first charger and I'm learning as I go.

Question 2: If the transmission is not internally engaging the button on the neutral safety switch, is there anyway to resolve this issue besides rebuilding an entire transmission?

doctor4766

Try idling in neutral(not park) for a min before you engage drive or reverse, then see what happens.
Gotta love a '69

Plumcrazy

For question 1,  start the car and put it in neutral and check the fluid level.
When you get the transmission level correct see what the transmission does when you put it in reverse, also try drive and manual low.

For question 2, a problem like that would not require a rebuild or even having to remove the transmission.  If the car only cranks in park or neutral then there is no problem.

It's not a midlife crisis, it's my second adolescence.

Surf Charger

Quote from: Plumcrazy on March 03, 2012, 01:19:35 PM
For question 1,  start the car and put it in neutral and check the fluid level.
When you get the transmission level correct see what the transmission does when you put it in reverse, also try drive and manual low.

For question 2, a problem like that would not require a rebuild or even having to remove the transmission.  If the car only cranks in park or neutral then there is no problem.

Question 1, Fluid level is fine. Everything seems to be working now.

Question 2, The car will not crank in park or neutral. Had to bypass the neutral safety switch all together. Starts fine if I bypass that.

GreenMachine

My car has the torque converter drainback problem if it sits for more than a day. I just start it up and put it in neutral while I'm finding a radio station or setting the heat. After a few seconds, it's ready to go. The transmission doesn't pump fluid in Park.
If it ain't broke, fix it 'till it is.

Fred

The transmission doesn't pump fluid in Park. :iagree:


Tomorrow is promised to no one.......drive your Charger today.

Plumcrazy

Quote from: Surf Charger on March 04, 2012, 01:44:30 AM
Quote from: Plumcrazy on March 03, 2012, 01:19:35 PM
For question 1,  start the car and put it in neutral and check the fluid level.
When you get the transmission level correct see what the transmission does when you put it in reverse, also try drive and manual low.

For question 2, a problem like that would not require a rebuild or even having to remove the transmission.  If the car only cranks in park or neutral then there is no problem.

Question 2, The car will not crank in park or neutral. Had to bypass the neutral safety switch all together. Starts fine if I bypass that.

Make sure the shift linkage is properly adjusted first.

Then if it has a new neutral safety switch the I would check the wiring between the starter relay and the neutral safety switch next.

It's not a midlife crisis, it's my second adolescence.

John_Kunkel

Quote from: Fred on March 04, 2012, 04:42:53 AM
The transmission doesn't pump fluid in Park.

Common misconception, the pump pumps fluid whenever the crankshaft is turning but in Park it doesn't refill the converter very quickly.

For the "no start" problem check the plastic bushings in the shift linkage, when they become worn or fall out there is enough slop in the linkage that the shift positions are off enough to prevent proper NSS operation.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

Surf Charger

Quote from: Plumcrazy on March 04, 2012, 09:29:56 AM
Quote from: Surf Charger on March 04, 2012, 01:44:30 AM
Quote from: Plumcrazy on March 03, 2012, 01:19:35 PM
For question 1,  start the car and put it in neutral and check the fluid level.
When you get the transmission level correct see what the transmission does when you put it in reverse, also try drive and manual low.

For question 2, a problem like that would not require a rebuild or even having to remove the transmission.  If the car only cranks in park or neutral then there is no problem.

Question 2, The car will not crank in park or neutral. Had to bypass the neutral safety switch all together. Starts fine if I bypass that.

Make sure the shift linkage is properly adjusted first.

Then if it has a new neutral safety switch the I would check the wiring between the starter relay and the neutral safety switch next.

Shift linkage is properly adjusted. Wiring from starter relay and neutral safety switch have all be rewired and coated with heat shrink...done properly. Something inside the tranny is not engaging the neutral safety switch as I already repalced the switch with a new one, rewired everything, and adjusted linkage.

Fred

Quote from: John_Kunkel on March 04, 2012, 03:31:48 PM
Quote from: Fred on March 04, 2012, 04:42:53 AM
The transmission doesn't pump fluid in Park.

Common misconception, the pump pumps fluid whenever the crankshaft is turning but in Park it doesn't refill the converter very quickly.

For the "no start" problem check the plastic bushings in the shift linkage, when they become worn or fall out there is enough slop in the linkage that the shift positions are off enough to prevent proper NSS operation.


Thanks for clarifying.  :2thumbs:


Tomorrow is promised to no one.......drive your Charger today.

Surf Charger

Quote from: Fred on March 04, 2012, 11:21:46 PM
Quote from: John_Kunkel on March 04, 2012, 03:31:48 PM
Quote from: Fred on March 04, 2012, 04:42:53 AM
The transmission doesn't pump fluid in Park.

Common misconception, the pump pumps fluid whenever the crankshaft is turning but in Park it doesn't refill the converter very quickly.

For the "no start" problem check the plastic bushings in the shift linkage, when they become worn or fall out there is enough slop in the linkage that the shift positions are off enough to prevent proper NSS operation.


Thanks for clarifying.  :2thumbs:

I agree with this as well. I had no idea. I love this forum!  :icon_smile_big:

Plumcrazy


[/quote]

Shift linkage is properly adjusted. Wiring from starter relay and neutral safety switch have all be rewired and coated with heat shrink...done properly. Something inside the tranny is not engaging the neutral safety switch as I already repalced the switch with a new one, rewired everything, and adjusted linkage.
[/quote]

One last test I would do before dropping the pan, unplug the connector from the neutral switch and ground the middle terminal. If the starter cranks the problem is in the transmission or you have a bad switch.

It's not a midlife crisis, it's my second adolescence.

John_Kunkel

Quote from: Surf Charger on March 04, 2012, 07:50:41 PM
Shift linkage is properly adjusted. Wiring from starter relay and neutral safety switch have all be rewired and coated with heat shrink...done properly. Something inside the tranny is not engaging the neutral safety switch as I already repalced the switch with a new one, rewired everything, and adjusted linkage.

Just to be sure, remove the linkage from the transmission lever and operate the lever by hand; Park is all the way to the rear.

If it still doesn't work remove the connector from the NSS and, with a meter or test light, be sure the center pin on the NSS is ground in Neutral and Park. Then, and only then, will you know that the problem is transmission related.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

Surf Charger

Quote from: Plumcrazy on March 05, 2012, 07:09:18 AM


Shift linkage is properly adjusted. Wiring from starter relay and neutral safety switch have all be rewired and coated with heat shrink...done properly. Something inside the tranny is not engaging the neutral safety switch as I already repalced the switch with a new one, rewired everything, and adjusted linkage.
[/quote]

One last test I would do before dropping the pan, unplug the connector from the neutral switch and ground the middle terminal. If the starter cranks the problem is in the transmission or you have a bad switch.
[/quote]

Yep..already did this. In fact, I made myself a little jumper wire and pulled the wiring harness back up the engine bay so I could at least crank the car on a daily basis. I just have to remind myself to make sure it is always in park and not in gear when cranking. I already replaced the neutral safety switch with no luck.

So whatever is in the transmission that engages in neutral safety switch can be accessed by removing the tranny oil pan?

Plumcrazy


[/quote]

Yep..already did this. In fact, I made myself a little jumper wire and pulled the wiring harness back up the engine bay so I could at least crank the car on a daily basis. I just have to remind myself to make sure it is always in park and not in gear when cranking. I already replaced the neutral safety switch with no luck.

So whatever is in the transmission that engages in neutral safety switch can be accessed by removing the tranny oil pan?
[/quote]

Part of the manual shift lever contacts the small electrical contact in the center of the neutral safety switch.  It's the small electrical contact of the safety switch that provides the path to ground.  With the pan off you should be able to look up at the neutral safety switch contact and see why it's not grounded.

It's not a midlife crisis, it's my second adolescence.