Blower Info Needed

[Charger4404spd]

OK, so I have always wanted a blower, mainly for the sound and cool factor. I have the top of engine off right now because my intentions were to install a set of Eddy heads. I now have the blower bug and need to know if you guys think this combo will be reliable.

Motor is a .040" over 440 , 69 block, steel crank and factory rods. Pistons are SpeedPro forged flatops (L2266). So I know compression should be under 9 to 1, I will use my 906 heads instead of going with the Eddy heads. I have not cc'd them yet. I have .080" piston to deck clearance. Now if I use a thick head gasket, I should be able to get well in under 9 to 1. I hope. I will cc my heads this week. I have punched in a few numbers in the compression calculator.

bore                 4.36
stroke               3.75
cc                    90 (just a guess, it will probably be more)

deck clearance  .080"
gasket             .050"

Using these numbers I get 8.53:1 compression.

I could use a thicker gasket I guess to even lower this if necessary?

I am assuming I could run around 6lbs of boost. I know next to nothing about forced induction, so I value comments from you guys.
So is this doable and still be a reliable engine. The Charger will not see track time, just cruising.

Also, I am currently looking at a blower from SuperChargerUSA. Anyone have any comments about this company? They have a 3 year warranty and their prices are a little lower than BDS. From what I have read, a guy left BDS years ago and started this company.

Steve

[Charger4404spd]

Here is the piston info:

Compression ratio is

figured with 78.5cc heads.



Forged Piston Flat Top, 4.360 Bore, 3.375 Stroke, 6.768 Rod, 440 Chrysler (L2266F-40) Specifications
Bore Diameter (in.):      4.35
Compression Ratio:      9.30:1
Dish / Dome Volume (cc):      -7
Pin Height (in.):      1.991
Ring Package:      5/64 5/64 3/16
Rod Length (in.):      6.768
Stroke (in.):      3.375
Weight (grams):      876
Wrist Pin Type:      Pressed

[cdr]

I would have the combustion chambers opened up on the eddys to get the compression you want  8 to 8.5, if you use your 906 heads it will cost alot to get valve & good seats, guides for unleaded fuel just my

[cdr]

 your cam will need to have at least112 to 114 lobe sep, to work with a blower

[Charger4404spd]

I have been running the 906 heads for a while, I will take them to be checked out and get a good 3 angle valve job.

[cdr]

O K

[Charger4404spd]

I just cc'd the heads and best I can tell is they are around 95cc (maybe a bit more), which should bring my compression down to 7.99:1 with a .039" head gasket.

[cdr]

takr a pic of combustion chamber & post,sounds like the valves are sunk

[cdr]

alott

[Charger4404spd]

[Rolling_Thunder]

I know John (SRT68) had a blown 440 in his 55 pickup for years and never had a problem. I believe he was running an 8-71 with iron heads. Might want to PM him and ask about his set up - 


I am currently lookin into blowers myself...     I already told myself if I get this new job - it's on.   

[firefighter3931]

My buddy ran that exact same combo for several years ; 906 heads/stock crank & rods with 2266 pistons and a solid flat tappet cam with a 671 supercharger and it ran great. Keep the boost under 10psi and it will be fine  A 112 lsa cam with an extra 6-8* exhaust duration would be ideal for a mild street blower setup. 


Ron

[Rolling_Thunder]

Yeah - If I remeber John's combo at all he was pushing 8psi and ran some old lazy SSI cam from PAW

[Charger4404spd]

Thanks guys! I am looking at Don Hampton blowers also. Has anyone ever dealt with him?

Another question. Will the Mopar electronic ign. be ok to run? Maybe upgrade to the chrome box?

[Rolling_Thunder]

I would run an MSD unit for peace of mind. Not only for the multi-spark aspect but the added benefit of a rev-limiter. Blower motors love to rev fast and anything over 6000rpm you'll be s***ing your pants anyway. Again, just my opinion and what I've seen.

I have no experience with Hampton

[Charger4404spd]

 

[firefighter3931]

I would run an MSD unit for peace of mind. Not only for the multi-spark aspect but the added benefit of a rev-limiter. Blower motors love to rev fast and anything over 6000rpm you'll be s***ing your pants anyway.

There's no need to rev a blower motor...power is instantaneous off idle ! 

Agree with Alex on the MSD. Blowers make lots of cylinder pressure so you need a really strong spark to light up the mixture. MSD, strong coil and good wires 



Ron

[Charger4404spd]

Will the MSD box work with the Mopar distributor or will I need to upgrade it to MSD also.

[Rolling_Thunder]

I have run an MSD box on a MP dizzy - just connect the two wires correctly and she'll fire.

[Charger4404spd]

 

[John_Kunkel]

Here's my old street-driven '62 Dart circa 1976; 426 Wedge, 6-71 blower driven 15% over, two 780 Holleys, 7.8 compression, Crane R-280 cam and Mopar Electronic Ignition. Run on Chevron White Pump 104 octane gas. Very docile, very driveable.

[Charger4404spd]

Sweet ride John.

Little update. I spoke with Don Hampton yesterday. Told him what I had and what I wanted and he said it would be a good combo. He said the 6-71 would be as good as the 8-71(only 1 inch difference between the two) and I would save $500 and I could run 7lbs of boost and not worry about anything. He had me to call Engle Cams and I spoke to Chris there. He recommends the K56 grind with a 112° centerline.

Also going to order a set of MRE valves (2.14/1.81) and 10° locks for the 906 heads. So things are coming together nicely.... now I just need to save a little more milk money

[Rolling_Thunder]

mmmm   Engle Cams...    K56 is a nice docile cam for the street.

[Charger4404spd]

mmmm   Engle Cams...    K56 is a nice docile cam for the street.

If I remember right, Chris (6T9) has that cam.

[Rolling_Thunder]

Yep - he's running a K56 but not sure on the 112LSA ---     

If you talk to the guys at Engle again ask them if a split duration cam would benefit you. I am not an expert but more exhaust duration is always nice on a blower motor as long as overlap is not increased by much.

[Charger4404spd]

I will ask him, I have to call him again Monday! Thanks!

[terrible one]

Here's my old street-driven '62 Dart circa 1976; 426 Wedge, 6-71 blower driven 15% over, two 780 Holleys, 7.8 compression, Crane R-280 cam and Mopar Electronic Ignition. Run on Chevron White Pump 104 octane gas. Very docile, very driveable.

Way cool! 

[firefighter3931]

Here's the cam i would run....off the shelf Crower 112 lsa flat tappet hydraulic : PN 32243 @  http://www.crower.com/searchresults/

*You can run this cam with stock valvetrain components allthough the Comp #911 valvesprings and Chrome moly retainers and machined locks should be added for reliability. A good chromemoly pushrod should also be added to the mix. 

When adding larger valves you need to open the bowl up underneath to maximize flow. A quick and easy method is to have the machinist do a 75* throat cut in the bowl when he's cutting the seats for the larger valves. Then you simply blend the bottom of the cut into the bowl and presto : bowl ported heads. Having the machinist do this operation will save you 30 hrs with a die grinder 

Take the time to get it right and you'll be much happier with the end result 



Ron

[Charger4404spd]

Ron, its been a while since I have had any kind of machine work done. Whats the average costs for this? Your right on with what Engle said as far as cam specs.

[Budnicks]

You might want to also look at The Blower Shop, Dyers Blowers or Mert Littlefield, the Hamptons are good, any roots type blower has a great visual effect, there is also Magnuson, Eaton, Whipple or Screw type positive displacement superchargers...last the B&M mini Blowers & the vast # of centrifugal blowers... I ran many different sizes GMC Roots style Superchargers most of Mert Littlefields Blowers for many years racing with no real issues in quality or performance 6-8-10-12:71 in Std. Rotors or Hi Helix Roots Superchargers, I tried the early Whipple Screw Supercharger with some success before they were outlawed for NHRA comp..... Get a high quality Dampner/ballancer blower hub & a spare belt & a couple of different drive pulleys to tune the boost, a quality free flowing properly regulated & adequate fuel system, a Chrome box hotter coil & low ohm resistance wires, for added spark at a minimum for the street... O-ring the block & good head gaskets, I used solid copper Hussie dead soft head gaskets, heat & detonation is a big issue with a superchargers, you really need to buy some books &  read up on the subject, educate yourself, before you spend any money... I forgot Weiand...

[Charger4404spd]

I have planned on the MSD 8.5 MM Super Conductor wires with a MSD 6AL, that should keep her lit huh? I have a new Carter fuel pump (if I remember right, it flows 120gph), this should be enough? I hope as I do not really want to go with an electric pump.

[firefighter3931]

Ron, its been a while since I have had any kind of machine work done. Whats the average costs for this? Your right on with what Engle said as far as cam specs.

Not sure on the head machining costs in your area but it will add up quickly....new valves, springs, retainers, locks + the machinework can exceed the cost of a brand new set of aluminum heads. That's why most guys go the new aluminum head route as opposed to rebuilding/porting 40 year old castings that have poor quench and are heavier. 

Engle is right about the wide LSA but i'd like to see some additional exhaust duration....especially with a stock head that is known to be weaker on the exhaust side. You need to hang the exhaust valve open longer to compensate for the weak flowing port. 



Ron

[firefighter3931]

I have planned on the MSD 8.5 MM Super Conductor wires with a MSD 6AL, that should keep her lit huh? I have a new Carter fuel pump (if I remember right, it flows 120gph), this should be enough? I hope as I do not really want to go with an electric pump.

The MSD wires are OK but there are better options that are more durable. 

For a blower build i'd strongly consider an electric fuel pump to keep the supply steady and consistent. A Mallory 140 with a return style regulator would be sufficient. The last thing you need is a low fuel supply under boost. That will melt pistons real fast and ruin your day. 



Ron

[Charger4404spd]

What wires would you recommend? Did you mean the non-return regulator??

[Charger4404spd]

Hmm, Summit says non return but Mallory says return.

[firefighter3931]

What wires would you recommend? Did you mean the non-return regulator??

For wires i Like the Firecore 50 8.5mm set which are a true 50 ohm per foot solid core lead. They come with nice silicone boots that won't crack under temp extremes like the cheezy MSD plastic boots. MSD used to have silicone boots but they cheaped out. 

Return regulator would be best for a street driven car. 



Ron

[firefighter3931]

Hmm, Summit says non return but Mallory says return.

Go with Mallory's recommendation  


Here's a mallory 140 packaged with a return style regulator : http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAA-4142/




Ron

[kamkuda]

The firecores wires work awesome. 

The a1000 is a great pump as well
http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-page/fuel-pumps/11101-a1000-fuel-pump/

[Budnicks]

I have planned on the MSD 8.5 MM Super Conductor wires with a MSD 6AL, that should keep her lit huh? I have a new Carter fuel pump (if I remember right, it flows 120gph), this should be enough? I hope as I do not really want to go with an electric pump.

The MSD wires are OK but there are better options that are more durable.  

For a blower build i'd strongly consider an electric fuel pump to keep the supply steady and consistent. A Mallory 140 with a return style regulator would be sufficient. The last thing you need is a low fuel supply under boost. That will melt pistons real fast and ruin your day.  



Ron

Amen to that brother, a good free flowing adequate pump 120gpm or more & a return/bypass style regulator or a muti-port fuel log with a bypass valve built in & #6 or 3/8" minimum fuel lines, #8 or 1/2" would be even better, either would be a great choice & would be my 1st choice... You don't want a blower engine to be lean from lack of fuel ever, can we say knock knock knock boom...LOL... If your using a stock type sending 5/16" fuel lines & sending unit, I would highly suggest going to a 3/8" or 1/2" fuel line compatible sending unit, Mancini Racing sells them, I don't remember how much they are, probably $100+..

[Charger4404spd]

Can I run a return line to the factory tank 

[Budnicks]

Aeromotive hose, fittings, pumps & regulators are also very good products & IMHO the most important thing in the plug wires, "other than the boot design, so they don't burn", is getting a low ohm resistance plug wire , there are a bunch of companies that make them, even as low as 40-ohm per/ft. of resistance, the lower the better, to get all the spark to the plugs, especially with a hot ignition, standard performance plug wires are like 1200-1500 or more ohm per/ft....  

[Budnicks]

Can I run a return line to the factory tank  

Sometimes if you have enough room, remove the sending unit & drill the plate for a fitting, you can just add a bulkhead type "sealed" fitting to the sending unit plate, that the fuel line comes out of the stock tank that's held in buy a compressin type twist ring... this maybe even easier, I've also done a return line into the filler neck, pointing it downwards towards the tank, so it won't aerate or splash too much, you will need to remove it to do the alterations so you don't get shaving in the tank...

[Charger4404spd]

Thanks, I need to replace the sender anyway.

[kamkuda]

[/quote] I've also done a return line into the filler neck, pointing it downwards towards the tank, so it won't aerate or splash too much, you will need to remove it to do the alterations so you don't get shaving in the tank...
[/quote]

That is a good idea.  It was the way I was going to do it before I decided to go to a fuel cell instead

[firefighter3931]

Can I run a return line to the factory tank 

I've got the perfect setup for your blower project ! 

Factory tank with a sump welded in and a 8an fitting welded to to the tank for the return line. 

I'm going to a fuel cell so i won't be using this factory gas tank anymore. 



Ron

[Budnicks]

Can I run a return line to the factory tank 

I've got the perfect setup for your blower project ! 

Factory tank with a sump welded in and a 8an fitting welded to to the tank for the return line. 

I'm going to a fuel cell so i won't be using this factory gas tank anymore. 



Ron

Now that would be the best of both worlds there...

[Charger4404spd]

Can I run a return line to the factory tank 

I've got the perfect setup for your blower project ! 

Factory tank with a sump welded in and a 8an fitting welded to to the tank for the return line. 

I'm going to a fuel cell so i won't be using this factory gas tank anymore. 



Ron

Ron shoot me a PM and lets discuss it 

[firefighter3931]

Can I run a return line to the factory tank 

I've got the perfect setup for your blower project ! 

Factory tank with a sump welded in and a 8an fitting welded to to the tank for the return line. 

I'm going to a fuel cell so i won't be using this factory gas tank anymore. 



Ron

Ron shoot me a PM and lets discuss it 

Pm sent 


Ron

[Charger4404spd]

 

[metalstorm440]

i have been using my 346 iron heads sense 1990 with the last 12yrs being w/blower.