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Wheel seals- whats right?

Started by NHCharger, July 25, 2010, 04:31:29 PM

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NHCharger

Redoing the brakes on my 71 Charger. I had just fixed a front brake on my 72 and the wheel seal looks like the one on the left, # 6840S (Timken and federal use the same #'s). So i ordered the new wheel seals for the 71 using the # 6840S and get the ones on the right. I went thru this when i fixed the 72. I ordered the correct # 8121S and got the style on the right so I returned it and got the # 6840S. Now both seals are coming thru like the seal on the right. The diameter is the same but it has that raised lip that sticks up 1/4" higher than the other style. Has anyone else used the one on the right? If I flush up the top of the seal to the back of the rotor it will set the bearing in an additional 1/4", not sure if that will be a problem, and I don't want to find out the hard way.
72 Charger- Base Model
68 Charger-R/T Clone
69 Charger Daytona clone
79 Lil Red Express - future money pit
88 Ramcharger 4x4- current money pit
55 Dodge Royal 2 door - wife's money pit
2014 RAM 2500HD Diesel

tricky lugnuts

I can't say for sure, but I THINK I remember using an inner wheel seal similar to the one on the right in your photo . . . That was for my 1971 Charger with front disc brakes and Auto Zone rotors.

As far as worrying about the long-term health of the wheel bearing - I think the inner seal is just used to help contain the wheel bearing grease. Yes, it looks like the "lip" is a little longer on the one on the right, but the adjustment of the bearings should still be done using the nut and cotter pin on the spindle.

So as long as the grease isn't coming out the back, the inner seal should be working fine. And as long as you adjust the bearings out properly using the nut on the spindle, you should be good to go.

Of course, please don't take anything I say as gospel . . .

If in doubt, put the old one back in if it will still work. But again, I THINK I remember seeing one like the one on the right when I redid mine years ago. Of course, I could be using the wrong one on my car. So . . . Sorry that isn't very helpful.

Nacho-RT74

the one on your right is the one on mine. ( front disc )
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

NHCharger

Thanks guys. I played around with the seal/spindle the other day. It appears that I won't have an issue with the top of the seal butting against the back of the spindle assembly.
72 Charger- Base Model
68 Charger-R/T Clone
69 Charger Daytona clone
79 Lil Red Express - future money pit
88 Ramcharger 4x4- current money pit
55 Dodge Royal 2 door - wife's money pit
2014 RAM 2500HD Diesel

JohnnyM

Dumb question: Can you tell me if it goes in with the cup-side facing the bearing (the side facing the table above), or if it goes in the other way around?  I pulled mine out, started repacking bearings, and...   :brickwall:

charger Downunder

Go to rockauto search by part number and you can view the pictures of the seal. SKF part number is 17115 they look more like the one on the left.
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A383Wing


NHCharger

Side facing the table faces the bearing.
72 Charger- Base Model
68 Charger-R/T Clone
69 Charger Daytona clone
79 Lil Red Express - future money pit
88 Ramcharger 4x4- current money pit
55 Dodge Royal 2 door - wife's money pit
2014 RAM 2500HD Diesel

JohnnyM

Awesome!  Thanks!

Oh, and I did some research with a friend at O'Reilly Auto...seems the 6840S is spec'ed for 10" rotors, and the 8121S is for 11" rotors.  Since they both use the same spindle and hub design, they should be completely interchangeable.  It does seem a bit odd, though...