Block sanding question

[superbirdtom]

Im sorry to hear that.  I have a NAPA store here and ran out of mipa primer two weeks ago and napa delivered me that stuff and its the worst primer i have ever used in 36 years.   no wonder your having a bad time.  just break down and always get good quality products.  theirs no build at all and sands like concrete.  your not listening to the primer advise on here .  once you use a good primer or sand paper or quality anything in the autobody products field  your gonna say to yourself  <why didn't I get that stuff in the first place.

all that finish one napa stuff is lacquer primer thats slightly modified with a hardner. its a waste of money ,buying a quart at a time.  Napa at one time had a very good high build primer ,but now they don't

[1BAD68]

theirs no build at all and sands like concrete.  your not listening to the primer advise on here .  once you use a good primer or sand paper or quality anything in the autobody products field  your gonna say to yourself  <why didn't I get that stuff in the first place.

Really? I thought it sanded pretty easy.
Anyway, I need some more so I'll get the Slicksand this time.

[superbirdtom]

good choice, You will see the difference immediatly. allow to flash off for 3 days at least  unlesss its 70+ degrees.  put on three complete wet coats of it   let it flask for 10 minutes between coats and put it on as thick as possible without runs.   and whenever repriming any poly primer. if you do sand it and need to recoat end with 240 grit.  for the next coat to get good adhesion.  Ive seen people sand poly primers like slicksand down to 1000 grit then recoat.  and the whole coat delaminate down the road. or even in the shop where he tried to blow it dry and huge chunks pop off.  rule is that whenever you get ready to paint and you have a poly primer base .  youve gotta epoxy prime it . otherwise paint will come off down the road.

[jaak]

Really? I thought it sanded pretty easy.
Anyway, I need some more so I'll get the Slicksand this time.

You won't be disappointed with Slicksand, plus it's not really that expensive. The last time I bought some (been a year or two, I'm sure it may be a little more now) a gallon with 4 tubes of activator was around 70 bucks.

Jason

[Indygenerallee]

I found a gallon of slicksand on Ebay for $70.00 plus shipping

[elitecustombody]

good choice, You will see the difference immediatly. allow to flash off for 3 days at least  unlesss its 70+ degrees.  put on three complete wet coats of it   let it flask for 10 minutes between coats and put it on as thick as possible without runs.   and whenever repriming any poly primer. if you do sand it and need to recoat end with 240 grit.  for the next coat to get good adhesion.  Ive seen people sand poly primers like slicksand down to 1000 grit then recoat.  and the whole coat delaminate down the road. or even in the shop where he tried to blow it dry and huge chunks pop off.  rule is that whenever you get ready to paint and you have a poly primer base .  youve gotta epoxy prime it . otherwise paint will come off down the road.

No need to confuse this guy.I think he has enough on his plate.Anyone that finishes sanding primer with 1000 grit is a moron.Why not finish with 2000 and buff before paint?    600 is the finest grit I'd use.   And there is no need for epoxy if painting over Featherfill G2. I've been using it for as long it's been out and been using Slicksand before Featherfill came out. I don't use epoxy over Featherfill and never had paint peeling . And why would anyone use epoxy over cured polyester primer before paint? Why not use a tintable catalized sealer? I know epoxy can be reduced and used as a sealer,but why ask for problems and load unneeded material on a car? Epoxy takes a while to cure,so it stays soft til it's cured and  is too thick to be used as a sealer IMO compared to a true sealer,which goes on smooth leaving satin finish with no buildup.

BTW,OP Evercoat Featherfill G2 is what you need,not Slicksand .   G2 is improved version of Slicksand.  Slicksand is like brick analog mobile phone and Featherfill G2 is like IPhone 5.  

[69finder]

KISS;

1) 80 Grit crap paint
2) Spray Poly
3) Block
4) Paint



The long HARD way;
1) Sandblast/dip/36 Grit to 80 Grit
2) Epoxy
3) Body filler
4) Epoxy
5) High Build
6) Block
6a) High Build if needed and blocking ad nausea
7) Epoxy
Paint

I've personally done it both ways.  I like the easy way myself.  The results were within 5% of each other and no one on the street is going to know.

[1BAD68]

Wow, I ordered a gallon of Evercoat Feather Fill G2 online after finding the best price and 4 days later they say the shipping cost has changed from $9.99 to $69.99 due to being a hazmat item.
So now I found some through Ebay and made an order, hopefully shipping stays at 9.99.

[elitecustombody]

You can't find it local?

[1BAD68]

Yes but they were 124.00 + tax per gallon. I'm all for supporting my local businesses but thats over 50 dollars more than I spent online.

[superbirdtom]

good choice, You will see the difference immediatly. allow to flash off for 3 days at least  unlesss its 70+ degrees.  put on three complete wet coats of it   let it flask for 10 minutes between coats and put it on as thick as possible without runs.   and whenever repriming any poly primer. if you do sand it and need to recoat end with 240 grit.  for the next coat to get good adhesion.  Ive seen people sand poly primers like slicksand down to 1000 grit then recoat.  and the whole coat delaminate down the road. or even in the shop where he tried to blow it dry and huge chunks pop off.  rule is that whenever you get ready to paint and you have a poly primer base .  youve gotta epoxy prime it . otherwise paint will come off down the road.

No need to confuse this guy.I think he has enough on his plate.Anyone that finishes sanding primer with 1000 grit is a moron.Why not finish with 2000 and buff before paint?    600 is the finest grit I'd use.   And there is no need for epoxy if painting over Featherfill G2. I've been using it for as long it's been out and been using Slicksand before Featherfill came out. I don't use epoxy over Featherfill and never had paint peeling . And why would anyone use epoxy over cured polyester primer before paint? Why not use a tintable catalized sealer? I know epoxy can be reduced and used as a sealer,but why ask for problems and load unneeded material on a car? Epoxy takes a while to cure,so it stays soft til it's cured and  is too thick to be used as a sealer IMO compared to a true sealer,which goes on smooth leaving satin finish with no buildup.

BTW,OP Evercoat Featherfill G2 is what you need,not Slicksand .   G2 is improved version of Slicksand.  Slicksand is like brick analog mobile phone and Featherfill G2 is like IPhone 5.  

you must epoxxy over bare steel before using slicksand g2 per manufacturers instructions.   Im not trying to confuse anyone.  I just use ppg dp=50 as my sealer of choice . if you use fast drying activator and 870 medium reducer. you just aply a piss coat over the poly primers before painting . not full coverage and it dries very fast in my booth.  I know  you seal over it before painting . what kind of sealer do you use before top coat??

[b5blue]

Try Pivco, LLC 800-468-6894 They have it, ship fast and you don't get jerked around. (They are online also just Googe it.) It was only 21.00 shipping for 2 gal of paint and activator, 1 qt. reducer, a tool and some other stuff. (To FL. just last week.)
  Eastwood has 2 gal of epoxy primer on sale till 5-5-12 for 71.00 shipped also, that is a very good deal. 
Per Tom's recommendation I'm epoxy coating, doing filler then another coat of epoxy and blocking that. I'm thinking if I get my filler really sweet I should not need any Evercoat high build. (Eastwood uses "Kirker" brand re-badged to their label, from what I researched online it's good stuff and sands well after 2-3 days.) 

[1BAD68]

Just checked that Pivco site, what do you guys think of Kirker paints?
Specifically thinking about their "Acrylic Urethane Base/Clear Paint Kits" under $200.00 for a complete base/clear kit, sounds like a good deal to me.

http://pivco.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_6_47_323&products_id=2854

[b5blue]

I'm gonna try it, I got "bright white" single stage urethane to seal the epoxy with. I checked online for 4 months at different forums looking for anyone complaining and only found positive remarks. Their brite blue metallic is very close to B5 Blue from the color chart I have. (That's what I'll end up putting over the white much later.) I'm only doing 80% of the outside of the body right now as I have patching to do in the rear.    Keep in mind I don't think 1 gallon will do the whole car.

[1BAD68]

Thanks to good ole Ebay, the G2 has arrived and only 1 day after I ordered. Hows that for speedy delivery? Plus it was only $72.00 w/shipping 

[b5blue]

Hey that's a good deal!  (I may need some!)

[1BAD68]

superbirdtom sent me this picture. It shows the PPG Shopline clearcoat kit next to the Mipa clearcoat kit, quite a difference in size for not much more.

[elitecustombody]

Thanks to good ole Ebay, the G2 has arrived and only 1 day after I ordered. Hows that for speedy delivery? Plus it was only $72.00 w/shipping  

I would have gotten gray or black, buff tends to dry too fast, so make sure you have a primer gun with 2.0 or larger tip to load this primer wet.

If you're looking for clearcoat that is affordable with awesome results, look into Matrix Autoglas AG-40 ,it's high-solids 2:1 clearcoat. A kit makes 7.5 liters or about 2 gallons. I've been using it for last 10-13 years and wouldn't trade it for anything else

[superbirdtom]

ive heard good things about matrix apparently a chemist from ppg started the company and the quality is fantastic and way cheaper too. 

[elitecustombody]

I've been spraying Matrix since their inception, good prices,great coverage,easy to use,I love it. Supposedly you can switch toners between PPG and Matrix,because Matrix was based off PPG.Don't know how much truth  in that,but that's what my supplier tells me

[superbirdtom]

its true  as  matrix has   reducer numbers slightly different.    like 0870   0885    wheras   ppg is dt 870 and dt 885   same deal.        some shops   use matrix reducers and they work great and are cheaper.    matrix  is advertized all over the body shop mags.    My friend uses it and says its good.    Im just glad to see competition to dupont and overpriced ppg.

[hemi-hampton]

Not sure I'd use the Shopline clear. Pretty sure thats what I put on my Ram Truck 6 years ago. Do you wanta see what it looks like now   LEON.

[jaak]

I have never tried Matrix, but a friend that has used PPG for years, used Matrix for the first time a couple of weeks ago. He was really impressed and said he is switching to Matrix.

Jason

[richRTSE]

I would have gotten gray or black, buff tends to dry too fast...

? Shouldn't they all be formulated the same? I have no experience with this product, just wondering why... 

[elitecustombody]

I would have gotten gray or black, buff tends to dry too fast...

? Shouldn't they all be formulated the same? I have no experience with this product, just wondering why... 

I wish I could tell you why. Hopefully they corrected the drying speed by now because I haven't bought buff color G2 in long time.Regardless,I prefer using gray or black and mix two for closer color shade if needed.