Block sanding question

[lexxman]

Ok I had a breakthrough.
Using some old rubber snap together floor tile (the kind of stuff you see in kids play area's) I cut two strips and glued them together kind of like a Durablock.
Anyway's it worked 100% better on that problem area than my wood block which was basically a piece of oak from my kitchen remodel.



This also works great on really curved area's like the sail panel.
It bends just enough but not enough to be flimsy. I think I'll just go over the whole car again with this and see what happens.
I saw a Durablock this size at the paint store but thought I could get by without it. I guess they make them for a reason.

Is sounds good,I have some of those. I'm going to give a go tonight. it's funny everyone have a different view on weather to put filler on primer or bare metal. It can drive a person crazy wondering which way to do it,if your not experienced.

[AirborneSilva]

Thanks, good explanation 

[1BAD68]

Priority 1:  Fix the gun so you can spray a light coat followed by 2 wet coats.  If it feels like you're spraying more air than primer it's going to bite you in the butt when it comes time to prep for topcoat.

What gun is it?

Just an old cheap primer gun that I only used because it has a 2.2mm tip. I called the paint guy and he said I could use a 1.7 tip so I'll be able to use my SATA gun next time and eliminate any trouble.
I'm treating this primer like filler, spray it on and sand almost all of it off leaving just what fills scratches and stuff. The paint guy recommended the Finish 1 epoxy sealer just before the color goes on.

[bill440rt]

I can see your highs & lows already! Looks good!

You might not want to or have to take too much off. If you're going to be spraying on another batch of hi-build, give that one a guide coat (black spray bomb dusting, etc), & just block the guide coat off until it's flat.

Are you using a gravity feed gun? It shouldn't come out dry with a 2.2 tip. Check your vent hole at the top of the cup at the cap. Sounds like it's clogged.

[elitecustombody]

Use  Featherfill G2 . If you plan on using that ACME stuff, you will need  3 more gallons

[1BAD68]

you will need  3 more gallons

I hope not, this stuff is $49 a quart w/hardener!
Seriously though, I think 1 more quart and I'll be ready to seal it up finally.

[superbirdtom]

go to   mipa-usa.com            order their    p 60 s poly primer  you won't be dissappointed . I switched because of price.  its 100 dollars for a gallon that includes a quart of hardner.  it is very thick.   they send anywhere.  I also use thir acryfil 2k primer.  it is exellent. and cheap.   our shop has switched now no more ppg primers exept dp epoxys.   Im checking my supplier to try more of their products , made in germany it is high quality stuff that many shops in seattle are switching to.   good luck.

[1BAD68]

This is way too confusing making my head hurt.

[superbirdtom]

theirs some good advise on your car here all ppl just trying to help. and yes theirs so many products out there its mind boggling.   heres the deal.   peoples advise on using poly primer is correct, because it is the highest building primer out there. , all you have to do is epoxy prime the car in dp- 50 grey. then wait a day then use a good poly primer.   as its like spraying a coat of bondo. that way when your blocking it  you have little chance of breaking through if your bondo work is straight enough.----------   or just get some good 2k high fill primer.  do you have a body shop paint supplier close to you?  if so what do they carry.   you can call me anytime, ill be happy to assist you.   907-617-1527   tom ferry  . I have done it all since 1973 and every which way you can think of.. and again will be happy to assist.     

[1BAD68]

Another tip that works is running some masking tape along the body lines as a guideline when blocking. Keeps the line straight & sharp.  

That's a great tip. I noticed my lines were crisp but kind of wavy until I taped them.. then sanded.




Why didn't anyone say this takes a lot of sanding lol!

[elitecustombody]

looks like it's coming along

Should have used Featherfill G2, it's much thicker. If you see metal showing,stop ,bump it and repeat with primer.

[69finder]

No one mentioned 'guide coat'?!

You HAVE to, HAVE to, MUST, must must must Guide Coat.  You're wasting your time sanding without guide coat.  You'll just go back and forth forever priming/sanding without actually knowing what you're doing.

[Patronus]

Really? I thought you just kept sanding.

[69finder]

Really? I thought you just kept sanding.

Didn't see it mentioned.  Seems like he's doing the same work over and over without much results. 

[1BAD68]

I'm using a 3M dry guide coat, it goes on with a pad kind of like applying wax to a car. You can see how dark it is on the top half of this quarter panel.
The bottom half has been blocked.

[hemi-hampton]

I'm using a 3M dry guide coat, it goes on with a pad kind of like applying wax to a car. You can see how dark it is on the top half of this quarter panel.
The bottom half has been blocked.

Yeah, I could see that. After priming, I like to add a little black to my thinner while cleaning the gun. I use this for Blackout/guidecoat, kills 2 birds with one stone & easy, fast to guidecoat this way. LEON.

[Charger-Bodie]

The 3m Dry guide coat is really nice stuff.

[superbirdtom]

What he's not doing though is Epoxying whole car and dumping a gallon of poly prime on the whole thing. you just don't do a resto piecemeal like that.  I just use a rattlecan of black lacquer primer .it dosen't clog paper at all. and I would like to try the 3m stuff its a good idea.   You also have to use guide coat on your mud work  to get that as straight as possible . I never have high spots on my bondo work before priming.  If you get your bondo work realy straight. then you wouldn't have all the high bondo spots coming through.
  and then you have to re epoxy and reprime .  Just guide coat your bondo through every grit then you only do the procedures once.  but he's at a learning curve.  all comments are meant to help him learn how to do it without repeating procedures.

many people try to make up for wavy bondo work with high fill primer. when the bondo work should be straight as hell, then you just prime once and it should block out without one reprime

[69finder]

Sorry my mistake!  I use the spray and I notice the swipe marks now

[1BAD68]

Very true I didn't guide coat my filler work, probably should have. Also didn't epoxy before bodywork started. But the car never sees bad weather, its driven only in summer so after I seal it all up with epoxy sealer, it should last a while.

[Charger-Bodie]

What primer did you end up using? Forgive me if I overlooked that info.

[superbirdtom]

Very true I didn't guide coat my filler work, probably should have. Also didn't epoxy before bodywork started. But the car never sees bad weather, its driven only in summer so after I seal it all up with epoxy sealer, it should last a while.

It will turn out fine in the end. I am glad to see you using tape on the main line.    before you take it off put another piece of tape below it that way  you keep repeating that procedure and the line will come out real straight. I make sure my lines are sharp then after everything  you just knock the sharpness  with some 320.  thanks  for the pics  .

[HOTROD]

  Looks good to me and I took your idea My wife got some kid pads and I maid a couple different sizes,(20.bucks) and using the rest on our trailor.!
I was looken to get some sanding blocks and could not make up my mind. Thanks
I like making stuff any way ,works for me !

[1BAD68]

What primer did you end up using? Forgive me if I overlooked that info.

If you mean filler primer, I used this Acme Finish1 stuff.
It's made by Sherwin Williams and basically a Martin Senour brand sold at NAPA.




Sprays nice and has a lot of time in the gun so you don't have to rush once mixed, very easy to sand also.

[Patronus]

I use that stuff too..