Block sanding question

[1BAD68]

Ok so I did all the repairs to the body (welding, grinding, etc.) and then sanded the whole thing with 80 grit.
Then I skimmed with "glaze" and blocked using a 16" board and 80 grit, it's coming out really nice but I'm just wondering about how much filler is left on the car?
This is basically a rust free southern California car with a few weld repairs, door dings and some waviness here and there. But after the first round of block sanding, does this look right?
Or does there seem to be a lot of filler left on the car?

[Cooter]

If it's rust free, and you want all question of whether it will be straight, then yes, that looks about right.

look at any of those fiberglass bodies. By the time the bodyshop is done, they've skimmed the entire body with filler and blocked.

Keep at it and use those hands to feel any imperfections. Move slowly and fast alternating to get a good feel for straightness. Do not stay at for hours though, as I've found you are feeling dents that aren't nessesarily there after about 5 hours of blocking.

[Patronus]

Looks about right. What grit did you take it to? I would get it in x2 coats of high build primer and then block it again. (this can take care of the subtle lows after the highs).. You can always tell how straight a car is by how quickly it blocks. A super straight car will block in minutes. Just remember, from one end of the panel to the other, all 17'-2"...

[elitecustombody]

Try to use longer board. The longer the board usually yeilds better ,flatter surface. Try to send in X-patter as much as possible. I'd make sure there is no surface rust under factory paint/primer. I've seen it and had to strip the whole car because of it,even though the paint looked great.

[bill440rt]

Looks about right to me as well. Heck, I probably had more on mine with the skimcoat. 

I like to give it two coats of sprayable polyester blocked with 100-180 before going to a filler primer. Really gets it nice & straight.
Another tip that works is running some masking tape along the body lines as a guideline when blocking. Keeps the line straight & sharp. 

[jaak]

Looks about right to me as well. Heck, I probably had more on mine with the skimcoat. 

I like to give it two coats of sprayable polyester blocked with 100-180 before going to a filler primer. Really gets it nice & straight.
Another tip that works is running some masking tape along the body lines as a guideline when blocking. Keeps the line straight & sharp. 

Exactly how I did mine.

Jason

[1BAD68]

What "sprayable polyester" did you guys use?
Would something like this work...

http://www.eastwood.com/ew-contour-polyseter-primer-surfacer-gal.html

[Charger-Bodie]

I like the evercoat slick sand. I usually put on 3 coats though. VERY nice non shrinking stuff. I love Poly surfacer.

[bill440rt]

I like Standox Spritzplastik. 2 coats, fills great, sands easily.
You'll need a siphon feed gun with at least a 2.0 tip, I'm pretty sure the one I have has a 2.2 tip or so. 

[Charger-Bodie]

I dont recall what size tip ours has but we use a Sata KLC poly surfacer gun. Works awesome.

[nvrbdn]

 

[68RT440]

Your on the right track. I worked at a hot rod shop for a few years, and we would buy brand new bodies and still would have to skim them top to bottom to make them right. Its the only way to get them dead straight...

[elitecustombody]

Evercoat Featherfill G2 is all you need.Available in few popular colors

[1BAD68]

Ok I'm going to use the Evercoat Featherfill.
How does it sand? Easy, hard, plug up the paper?

[jaak]

Ok I'm going to use the Evercoat Featherfill.
How does it sand? Easy, hard, plug up the paper?

I have used Evercoat's Slicksand, and I have used Mar-hyde's Quicksand, both sanded very easily and did not plug the paper (but I did wait for a few days to really harden before I started blocking).
I have never used feather fill, but I'm sure its just as good... Evercoat makes great products. I use their fillers too.

You'll need a siphon feed gun with at least a 2.0 tip, I'm pretty sure the one I have has a 2.2 tip or so. 

I bought the cheapest new gun with a 2.0 tip I could find on eBay (20 bucks, it was a gravity feed). It worked pretty good, but I think a 2.2 tip would be better....Poly primer is some THICK stuff!

Jason

[furyrestored]

i love evercoat slick sand i have used it on a half dozen cars now and spray it with a cheap gravity feed gun with a 2.5 tip that i bought on ebay for around 30 bucks and free shipping really does a great job spraying those high build primers,just type in primer gun on ebay all categories and presto,best 30 bucks i spent in a while

[1BAD68]

Evercoat recommends using a self-etch or epoxy primer under it.
What do you guy's use self-etching or epoxy?

[bill440rt]

I coated the car with PPG epoxy prime first, then did bodywork over that.
So, then I applied the Standox spray filler over a mixed substrate of epoxy, bare metal, and body filler, it will stick over all of them.

BTW, Standox is now owned by DuPont. 

[1BAD68]

I read about Standox and it sounds like a great product but I have no clue where to get it.
Seems like it's available in Europe.
I'll ask the Guy at the paint shop.

[Aero426]

Evercoat recommends using a self-etch or epoxy primer under it.
What do you guy's use self-etching or epoxy?

Both are ok to use.    I do have a personal preference:

Clean (new or freshly blasted) metal = epoxy sprayed on immediately.  
Repaired or previously worked panel = self etch

Let's say you are working that bare panel a week or so.  The little bit of acid in the self etch will help kill any flash corrosion left on your panel.  
You can't see it, but as soon as it's bare metal, it's rusting. Same with any small pits  that might be left.   The self etch will get a little better bite.    

Epoxy primer will seal off the panel for corrosion resistance.
Self etch does not seal.  

[AirborneSilva]

Evercoat recommends using a self-etch or epoxy primer under it.
What do you guy's use self-etching or epoxy?

Epoxy primer will seal off the panel for corrosion resistance.
Self etch does not seal.  

So then could you or would you use both, first self etch then epoxy?

[jaak]

I recommend epoxy. Here's the order in which I primered my car...
1. Epoxy (after stripping car)
2. Polyester (after all filler work)
3. Urethane High build (commonly referred as 2k, but technically any primer that uses a catalyst is a '2k' or 'Two component'

I personally did 2 rounds of blocking/priming with polyester (blocked with 180 first round, then 220 with second), then 2 rounds of Urethane (400 first round, then wet sanded with 500 second round).

Jason

[Patronus]

My favorite it the dura-block 1-3/8"x11" block-one end to the other-both straight and arched to the body. Over, and over, and over.....

[Aero426]

Evercoat recommends using a self-etch or epoxy primer under it.
What do you guy's use self-etching or epoxy?

Epoxy primer will seal off the panel for corrosion resistance.
Self etch does not seal.  

So then could you or would you use both, first self etch then epoxy?

If you blast or strip your car, epoxy will protect it if you are looking at several months of body work.    Then when you do your body work, you are going to run into bare spots.  Self etch on those will protect it.    Old fashioned bondo should go over bare metal, but it will stick to epoxy primer.  
The catalyzed 2k primer goes over your bondo work and you final block that and repeat prime as needed.  

[AirborneSilva]

Thanks Aero