Block sanding question

[elitecustombody]

Don't be fooled.Paint ,especially metallic will not offer same or even close coverage as sealer does. Sealer is way more dense compared to paint.Paint usually has binders,converters,metallic flop-control additives,e.t.c., which have no color and when it comes to metallic colors,some just don't have good coverage,period.  .

[Patronus]

1 coat of basecoat (or clear) takes about 60oz of paint. Or about 3 medium to full sized gun cups for the whole entire car. (I use the PPS system from 3m). If you have 2 full gallons you got plenty.. I forget, what color are you spraying?

[elitecustombody]

He's doing it in silver,so two gallons of color should be more than plenty,as log as everything goes well .

OP,I would have shot the base over the sealer within that 30 minute window rather than let the sealer cure . Also if you have never shot light metallic colors, I'd read up on that first. It can be tricky,even with proper temp. reducer ,mixture,air pressure and gun distance.

[1BAD68]

I've been reading up on it and basically plan to spray a light tack coat, then medium wet coats until fully covered, then a misty fog coat to sort of blend the metallic flakes.
Is that about right?
The color is a 3:1:1 mix ratio (thought it was 4:1:1) color: activator: metallic control additive.
It has a 2 hour pot life, would it be safe to mix a full gallon and start spraying or just mix each quart as needed?

[Patronus]

Get your spray pattern down before you start. I would suggest not stopping on the B pillars. Shoot the roof and down the sides to the back of the quarter. Then go to the other side same way. Then fill in the deck lid and finally the sides. You have to be quick, painting is hard work. I prefer to work from the bottom up, but its just personal preference. Also make sure to keep the gun spraying at a 90* to the car at all times. It helps to increase your overlap from 1/2 to maybe 3/4 of an overlap with metallics. Im no expert, so if anyone else has any tips for heavy metallic Im all ears. I'd also add its easier to get a run in the clear than the basecoat, so take it easy.. If you mix up a full gallon, thats a lot of paint. I just did a Duster and mixed up a gallon combined and had a bit leftover from 3 coats. I'd mix up your whole batch at once and a quick stir for every cup. It aint easy, expect to be spraying for close to 6 hours. And in a monkey suit sweating.  

edit: from the pic, that is not what you want it to look like,
We'll be re-shooting this one..

[elitecustombody]

I'd advise against mixing the full gallon, do half first just in case you run into some problems, that way you don't waste bunch of paint.Have your game plan on how you want to spray.Every painter has their own style .I  usually don't paint assembled car,so I ca't really tell you how or where to start from. I shoot my first coat medium wet and  just as it's starting to flash I shoot a light coat. I also like to use slow reducer to make sure that I have plenty of time to get my metallics to lay down right .

[375instroke]

If you're using that stuff in a tube, stop.  Use something like this:

[elitecustombody]

If you're using that stuff in a tube, stop.  Use something like this:

I think you're few months late OP is in the middle of painting,not body work

[Patronus]

I'd advise against mixing the full gallon, do half first just in case you run into some problems, that way you don't waste bunch of paint.Have your game plan on how you want to spray.Every painter has their own style .I  usually don't paint assembled car,so I ca't really tell you how or where to start from. I shoot my first coat medium wet and  just as it's starting to flash I shoot a light coat. I also like to use slow reducer to make sure that I have plenty of time to get my metallics to lay down right .

I basically have reducers per temp ranges. Is a warmer reducer faster?

[Charger-Bodie]

I'd advise against mixing the full gallon, do half first just in case you run into some problems, that way you don't waste bunch of paint.Have your game plan on how you want to spray.Every painter has their own style .I  usually don't paint assembled car,so I ca't really tell you how or where to start from. I shoot my first coat medium wet and  just as it's starting to flash I shoot a light coat. I also like to use slow reducer to make sure that I have plenty of time to get my metallics to lay down right .

I basically have reducers per temp ranges. Is a warmer reducer faster?

Warmer temp reducers are slower when used in temp ranges lower than they are designed for. If you use use a cold reducer when its 90 out it will dry almost as fast as you spray it.

[1BAD68]

Tomorrow is spray day... finally!
Any last minute tips for spraying metallic?
I understand that I can't sand metallic if I get orange Peel or a sag. If I do, should I just keep spraying?

[AirborneSilva]

I can't answer your question, sorry, but i do have one....   what are you going to use as an exhaust fan?  Seems to me when you start spraying its going to get awful foggy in there 

[Patronus]

Looks like you have a full day of masking yet too..

[1BAD68]

I have no fans. I'm using an LVLP gun and after spraying the sealer with it I'm hoping it will be about the same... very little overspray.
I guess I'll be sort of wingin it.

Masking done

[AirborneSilva]

Cool, looking forward to seeing it done and hearing about your experience 

[69 OUR/TEA]

I have no fans. I'm using an LVLP gun and after spraying the sealer with it I'm hoping it will be about the same... very little overspray.
I guess I'll be sort of wingin it.

Masking done

   ARE YOU SERIOUS ?Closed up garage,no air movement???That is not something you should be doing for numerous reasons,last thing being the quality of that job,first thing being SAFETY !!!!! I commend you for diving into it and doing your own work to save a buck,learn,get some experience,but c'mon dude.....go rent a booth from someone,even if it's a crappy one.

[Patronus]

I would agree. I understand you're just wingin' it, but I few tips. Venting is key. I use a wall of furnace filters at one end and 5 box fans exchanging the air and its still nasty. Also, I wet the floor, keeps dust down, and I ground the car to help eliminate static. Get a good respirator and at least a hat to wear.. it'll really be worth it. Are you all alone, or do you have a helper?

[1BAD68]

I have a really good respirator and a full body paint suit.
There is a service door on the back of the garage and also 2 windows. I could put a box fan in the door and pull air in from the windows or push air in and exhaust through windows?
Doesn't wetting the floor cause a lot of unwanted humidity?

[Hudson Hornet !]

If you do anything I would have the fans exhausting the paint fumes to the outside.  If you do it the other way around, it will blow lots of crap onto the paint.  Get as much exhaust going for you as you can.   

[jaak]

When I painted mine in my shop, I had a 'tent' around the car made up of plastic sheeting. I cut two holes in the back and taped in a/c filters and had 2 of those round fans on stands blowing into the rear of my 'booth' and I had two box fans at the front pulling through a/c filters, this creates positive pressure. Worked real well and pulled the overspray out fairly quick. If you don't have any kind of exhaust the overspray just lingers around, and will fall on the car. Not to mention you won't be able to see.

Here's a couple of pics of how I had it set up when I painted...

Rear of 'booth'...


Front of 'booth'...


good luck,
Jason

[NHCharger]

Here's my homemade paint booth. i was inspired after seeing Jaak's. If you look on the driver's side resting on the floor I have two box fans mounted on a piece of plywood. When I paint i open the windows above the fans and install the fans in the lower half of the window. I also wash the entire floor area the night before with a wet mop. I start running the fans a couple hours before I paint. I'm still in the high build primer and sanding stage. When i get ready to paint I will replace all the plastic with new clean plastic and cut some HVAC filters into the plastic.

[elitecustombody]

Please get some sort of fans to help the fumes and overspray out. If you don't,most likely you will end up with  serious die-back (dulling) or overspray . And do not use wet mop to clean the floors, that's asking for lint and trash in paint. Just hose out the garage and leave it,standing water on the floor is not ideal either,as it can contribute to problems during painting as well as after.

[FLG]

Id roll plastic on the floor like jaak does...id imagine the static from the plastic will cause a lot of dust and lint to cling to it rather than get blown around 

[69 OUR/TEA]

Please get some sort of fans to help the fumes and overspray out. If you don't,most likely you will end up with  serious die-back (dulling) or overspray . And do not use wet mop to clean the floors, that's asking for lint and trash in paint. Just hose out the garage and leave it,standing water on the floor is not ideal either,as it can contribute to problems during painting as well as after.

x2,the solvent in the air that is NOT getting away from the painted surface will def affect the outcome of the job,and standing water on the floor,the Iso's in the paint suck humidity into it,thus again causing die-back.Get as much air movement as possible going per your situation.But first and foremost,your safety.I know you said you have a full suit,that is good because any exposed skin will allow Iso's into your blood system.Especially your eyes if you plan on doing this without gogles.After many years of doing this,I am and have been paying alot closer attention to heath conditions related to this trade.Big one to,is cleaning up tools,spray equipment,bondo spreaders,etc with laquer thinner,or reducers....wear gloves,that shit enters your blood stream so quick it is'nt funny and can cause serious damage to you.Again,just sayin.

[1BAD68]

So far so good.
Waiting on the 45 minutes before spraying clear.