Block sanding question

[Patronus]

I would 600g wet before sealer/paint

[elitecustombody]

I would never go finer than 400 before sealer. What color are you painting it?

[1BAD68]

Bright silver metallic

[elitecustombody]

I like Matrix MP127 sealer, it's available in different colors. Very easy to apply, doesn't have thick build up,covers literally in one coat even when reduced 30-40%. I think I pay $125 per kit ,1 gal. sealer 1 quart hardener.

I'm finishing up a full colorchange on a brand new silver SRT-8 Jeep Grand Cherokee to Ferrari Grigio Silverstone ,which is dark gray metallic. I only used about a quart of that sealer in dark gray to do the whole Jeep,so that should tell you how well it covers 

here is a pic before final teardown and paint

[superbirdtom]

Is that a catalyzed sealer?  Ill bet its nice and thin like tha factory uses on some bumper covers.  the flatter it is the better the paint goes on.  sounds like good stuff.

[1BAD68]

ok I'm confused. All the epoxy sealers state "non-sandable" ?
After all the blocking, what if you spray the sealer and get a run or orange peel or something, what exactly does "non-sandable" mean?

This kit http://www.ebay.com/itm/GRAY-KIT-House-Kolor-KD3000-DTS-Epoxy-Surfacer-Sealer-/110718937593?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item19c75ce9f9&vxp=mtr#ht_3678wt_1163
Says it's a hybrid epoxy/acrylic that can be used as a sealer and sanded. Is a epoxy primer necessary over Featherfill or would just a urethane primer work good?

[superbirdtom]

some urethane primers can be mixed with a different ratio and become sealers. just check the mixing instructions from your jobber.  I still use dp-50 for silvers.  You have to use the fast activator and medium reducer 870 and reduce it out 8%  then just put on a light coat. mist it on 2 coats  wait 20 minutes between coats.  this way  no runs  . and it will dry quickly .  wait one day and paint it.

[elitecustombody]

Is that a catalyzed sealer?  Ill bet its nice and thin like tha factory uses on some bumper covers.  the flatter it is the better the paint goes on.  sounds like good stuff.

It appears to be very similar. It literally has no build up,dries pretty fast to a smooth chalkboard finish.And if there is trash or lint,just knock it down with tack cloth,can also be sanded without clogging the paper. I usually reduce it about 30%,shoot one coat and follow up with second one in a few minutes,let it flash about 15-25 minutes while mixing the base,come in,run tack cloth and shoot the color.

[1BAD68]

ok I have to make a decision today.
I wet sanded and I'm ready for either sealer, primer or color. I have a nice solid coat of Feather Fill G2 that says you can spray base coat right over it.
But there are some spots where I went through to the steel, mainly edges and 2 other spots smaller than a dime, also here and there the epoxy is showing.
I have 2 sprayable gallons of acrylic urethane base and a gallon of clear. Can I spray the car as is or is it necessary to have a sealer, and if so is epoxy necessary or would a urethane primer work?

[elitecustombody]

What grit paper did you use ? You want to cover the busted through areas with primer .I like using Sherwin Williams GBP988 etching primer in aerosol can if I have situation where I sanded through and have bare metal showing. Though it's not a must, a coat of gray sealer would definitely help you when you lay the color down.

[Charger-Bodie]

Etch or etch prime the bare spots, then seal to get a nice uniform undercoat.

[1BAD68]

I wet sanded with P320 and then after it dried I rubbed the whole thing with a maroon scuff pad (360 grit)
I'll just shoot a thin coat of urethane primer as a sealer.
Will this stuff work on the bare spots? Thought I read that you can't spray a catalyst over a aerosol?

[elitecustombody]

I never tried the Evercoat etching primer in aerosol, so I can't comment, but as long as it's gray and not olive color, I think it will work just fine. As for using urethane primer as a sealer, make sure it can be used as a sealer. Last thing you need is all the paint coming off in sheets. If I were you, I take a trip to paint store and buy a quart kit of gray sealer to be safe.

[1BAD68]

If I were you, I take a trip to paint store and buy a quart kit of gray sealer to be safe.

Thanks that's what I'll do

[Charger-Bodie]

If I were you, I take a trip to paint store and buy a quart kit of gray sealer to be safe.

Thanks that's what I'll do

You will definitely want to seal it if you only sanded it to 320. Fine metallics need a smooth surface.

[1BAD68]

Bought a quart of this stuff.
It say's it can be sanded if needed with 600 grit prior to topcoat.

[elitecustombody]

You are on the right track.Don't be scared to add some reducer to make it lay down nice and smooth.Obviously use appropriate temp reducer

[1BAD68]

ok the tech sheet say's you can use this 2 ways.
1K option = sealer+reducer (wet on wet sealer)
or
2K option = sealer+hardener (barrier coat sealer)
If I reduce it can I still use hardener?
The sheet doesn't mention it and I just want to be sure.

[elitecustombody]

Pleeeeease use hardener. Reduce only after proper amount of hardener is mixed in.

[Patronus]

ok the tech sheet say's you can use this 2 ways.
1K option = sealer+reducer (wet on wet sealer)
or
2K option = sealer+hardener (barrier coat sealer)
If I reduce it can I still use hardener?
The sheet doesn't mention it and I just want to be sure.

The wet-on-wet is if you go straight to paint/clear. The barrier coat is when the sealer is allowed to dry then 600 for paint.

[1BAD68]

Sprayed the sealer today.
Even though I have a big compressor, I bought an LVLP spray gun and really glad I did now.
There was hardly any over spray (see picture, taken immediately after I set the gun down) and it's a little slow which is good for a novice like me.

[1BAD68]

I was planning on shooting base today (wet on wet) but in some areas where I layed it a little thick there are little bumps, I think it's "solvent pop" but not sure. It looks like I can knock it down with 600 real quick after the 12 hour window. I should have light coated the whole car, then came back for a medium coat but all in all I think it worked pretty good.



and this idiot landed in it

[AirborneSilva]

Looks good 

[elitecustombody]

Looks good, other than the fly,lol. I'd suggest running to Home Depot and get some plastic drop cloth,hang & tape the walls and cover up anything that might have dust just to keep trash in paint to a minimum. It's getting there

[1BAD68]

cover up anything that might have dust just to keep trash in paint to a minimum

Will do, I was amazed at how much dust and little fuzzy things landed on it.
Have a question about coverage, I used only about 2/3 of that quart of sealer and it covered pretty well. 4:1:1 sealer, reducer and hardener.
The color has the same mix ratio but I've read that a gallon would be minimum for good coverage. I have 2 sprayable gallons but after spraying sealer, I'm thinking I won't even get through half of it?