69 brake system

[charger01]

I have kinda a loaded question maybe someone here can help me with.  When I purchased my 69 charger a couple years ago, it had all new brakes and brake lines on it.  I do not know how long they have been on the car, but they have never had fluid run through them.  Anyways is there a certain procedure I should  go through to bleed the system out from new like this or just follow the normal tire sequence order?

Now where my problems start,  I bled the master cylinder and started to bleed the brakes.  My car is 4 wheel power drum brakes.  The front resevoir seems to be the only one losing any fluid, Is this correct?  Also the front resevoir the fuid is clear while the rear reservoir seems kinda brown and hazy.  Problems?

Finally, My left rear wheel cylinder was pumping out rusty fluid.   I saw that and gave up.  Do you think the entire system needs replaced or is there hope?

One more, is it ok to bleed the breaks with the rear drums off?  I was doing it this way, and one of the brackets kept sliding off?
I know it is a really loaded question, but Iam at my pocket book and wits end now. Please help.

[Charger_Fan]

I have kinda a loaded question maybe someone here can help me with.  When I purchased my 69 charger a couple years ago, it had all new brakes and brake lines on it.  I do not know how long they have been on the car, but they have never had fluid run through them.  Anyways is there a certain procedure I should  go through to bleed the system out from new like this or just follow the normal tire sequence order?

Geez, that sucks that whoever replaced those parts didn't add fluid. I would think that's just inviting rust.
It's best to start bleeding at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder & work your way up.

Now where my problems start,  I bled the master cylinder and started to bleed the brakes.  My car is 4 wheel power drum brakes.  The front resevoir seems to be the only one losing any fluid, Is this correct?  Also the front resevoir the fuid is clear while the rear reservoir seems kinda brown and hazy.  Problems?

I'm not totally positive, but if I recall, the front reservoir feeds the rear brakes...someone else here will probably know for sure. If the front fluid level is dropping & there's no leaks anywhere, then that's good...that means that air is being expelled & being replaced with fluid.
The brown & hazy part sounds like some of the rust described in your next paragraph...

Finally, My left rear wheel cylinder was pumping out rusty fluid.   I saw that and gave up.  Do you think the entire system needs replaced or is there hope?

I would imagine that either the line going up front, or the wheel cylinder itself has developed rust because of being stored without fluid. You could take the wheel cylinder apart & inspect, if you feel the rust is bad enough...actually, that's probably best anyway.
Just make sure to lube the cups with a little brake fluid before you reassemble it, so it doesn't damage the rubber.

One more, is it ok to bleed the breaks with the rear drums off?  I was doing it this way, and one of the brackets kept sliding off?

No, the drums need to be on, so the shoes have something to push against. If you leave the drums off, once there's enough fluid in the line to move the cylinder pistons far enough, it will more than likely over-extend the pistons, pop them out of the cylinder & shoot fluid all over everything.

Now I'm assuming here that you've got a helper to pump the pedal while you crack the bleeder screws, right?

Brake bleeding 101...
Have your helper pump the pedal 4 or 5 times (or until he feels pressure, whichever comes first), then with him holding the pedal, you crack the bleeder screw...air & fluid will bleed out & his foot will go to the floor. TELL HIM TO NOT LET OFF UNTIL YOU TIGHTEN THE BLEEDER. And tell him he doesn't need to push the pedal hard, just average stopping pressure.
Do that about 3 times, then go re-fill the master cylinder (never let the reservoir go dry), then bleed the next closest wheel in line.
So...right rear, left rear, right front, left front.
Refill the master cylinder after each one.

You may have to redo each cylinder a couple times before you get all the air out.


Oh & being a power brake car, it's probably best to do this with the engine idling, so you don't risk unnecessary strain on the booster.

[charger01]

Thank you so much for your reply Charger Fan,  I appreicate it.

[Charger_Fan]

You're welcome, let us know how it turns out.