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Need Torque Converter help

Started by jwilk01, February 17, 2012, 11:15:00 PM

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jwilk01

I am thinking I need to replace my Torque converter, I am currently have the tranmission rebuilt.  This might be a very stupid question but when you get a 2500 stall converter what exactly does that mean?  And if I want just a stock type converter what do I need, I have a 440, 3.23 rear and will be running 295/50r15 tires.  The 440 is pretty much just a stock build.  I found this one on autozones website:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Dacco-Transmission-Torque-Converter/1968-Dodge-Charger/_/N-ir8evZ6o2ll?itemIdentifier=263603_168127_0_

Thanks
Josh

Chryco Psycho

using a 2500 torque converter allows the engine to flash higher into the powerband before the converter locks up & puts load on the engine , similar to dropping the clutch at higher rpm , this can be critical with cam upgrades , if the cam starts to make power above 2000 rpm but the converter locks at 1600 rpm the engine will struggle to get to the powerband at all & often the car will perform worse than it was stock . The other consideration is the rpm at typical highway speeds , for example 70 mph , you  want the converter to be locked not slipping at the RPM at 70 MPH or it will generate a lot more heat & lose milage. a 2200 converter should fit well unless you drive 55 on he highway

jwilk01

Thanks chryco,  just trying to get this thing perfect for the power tour, don't want to be breaking down in the middle of nowhere!

Later
Josh

John_Kunkel

There is no such thing as a "2500 stall converter".

The replacement Dacco converter in the link is probably an 11 3/4" which would be the correct replacement for a '68 440HP....it wouldn't stall at 2500. The 10 3/4" from a '68 383HP (Dacco #764) would probably stall at 2500+ behind a near stock 440HP.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

jwilk01

I was just throwing out that number, I had no idea what they ment.  Thanks for the info! 

Thanks
Josh

BSB67

Quote from: jwilk01 on February 17, 2012, 11:15:00 PM
I am thinking I need to replace my Torque converter,...........


Curious.  Why do you think you need to replace the torque converter?

500" NA, Eddy head, pump gas, exhaust manifold with 2 1/2 exhaust with tailpipes
4150 lbs with driver, 3.23 gear, stock converter
11.68 @ 120.2 mph

jwilk01

Quote from: BSB67 on February 19, 2012, 07:44:09 AM
Quote from: jwilk01 on February 17, 2012, 11:15:00 PM
I am thinking I need to replace my Torque converter,...........


Curious.  Why do you think you need to replace the torque converter?

I don't know that I need to, the guy I took the transmission to I guess rebuilds the torque converter.  I didn't know you could even do that.  I just was asking the question I didn't know exactly how they worked.

Thanks
Josh


elacruze

I'm not the expert in choosing particular converters, but in general you want the converter to start moving the car when the engine has achieved a high enough RPM to make good power. Obviously since every engine is different and car weight and axle ratio have to be considered too, choosing the 'best' converter is folly; choose one that suits your 90% driving style. If you spend most of your time cruising town and the highway, something '2500 stall' or less (closer to stock) is best. If you want glorious burnouts and best strip performance, higher numbers let the engine rev more before hitting the rear wheels.
Personally with a stock engine I'd stay close to a stock converter, maybe something like a 'hemi' stock which may be a little higher than yours-others here with more expertise will help. Don't worry about the 'slipping and making heat on the highway' argument if anyone brings it up, all streetable converters are functionally solid after they stabilize, which is somewhere at the end of first gear.
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

firefighter3931

Turbo Action makes an 11in "Street Hemi" converter that works very well with mild/stock builds. It should give you the bump in stall speed you're looking for while maintaining efficiency  :2thumbs:


Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

oldkimmer

.............Yes, the T/A 11 in S H  converter is a great choice.....kim....
Back in the good old days 1968 charger rt 440 magnum . 1968  charger 383 magnum. The Beast has been Unleashed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Orange Bird

Hi,

I was looking for recommendations for my converter purchase in a different thread area. I see this one here. I was considering a 3K stall from TA and Hughes. Any feedback on these two would be great.

440, 10.5 compression, alum heads, 6 Pack, 410, 545 Comp (hyd) cam, new rebuild on trans w/extra clutch. Cruising car but love to have fun w/the gas, you know the stop light mentality - you want to be in front of me you have to take it, as long as its safe to do it.

Anyway, any insight is appreciated.
Monster Garage Montra - If you can't hear it before you see it, what's the point?

Leave the little people alone!

red69superbee

ive used a stock 11 inch small block converter behing a big block such as yours and works just fine for driving around. There is two different bolt patterns with stock converters where it bolts to the flex plate, so you need the correct one. Also more stall and more heat for a driver