Pictures of Undercarriage with Rails Added

[4402tuff4u]

Does anyone have pictures of the undercarriage of a 68 Charger (or 69-70) with rails installed? Need to see how the emergency brake cable is installed with the rails. I asked my body shop guy yesterday to add a set of them on my R/T. Also, are they stiched weld, spot weld or continous weld? Tweaking the HP on the 440 a bit and dont want to twist the unibody. Any pictures would greatly be appreciated. 

[69pistolgripRT]

Well, these are mine. Put on about twenty years ago.

[4402tuff4u]

69pistol, Any reason you didnt weld them on? My body guy was thinking of a "channel" 1/8" thick type steel section with small rounded radius edges like the existing rails on the car. The channel would have I guess 1/2" flanges on each side of the channel opening that would come in contact with the floor boards and then be welded on to the floor board skin. I would think you get more strength and rigidity on the unibody if the rails are welded to the unibody flloor skin. When you look at the car from the bottom, it would look like the rails from the rear to the front torsion rod assembly would be one unit will not see joints and be part of the floor boards. Any thoughts?? Did you bolt them on to be able to remove or to avoid hiring a welder to install? They sure look strong!

My body guy builds limo's (long) for a living so I'm comfortable on his abilities, but he was not sure what the "norm" construction/fabrication is with the rail extension on Chargers/B bodies. He was asking me. I told him that I had a good source to find out.

[4402tuff4u]

Forgot to thank you for the photo's.
I guess in your car the brake line/cable for the emergency brake passes through the rail and the floor boards correct? 

[Troy]

The bolt-in connectors are Mopar pieces I believe. You can weld them in for strength and many people do. I am using 1"x2" steel that's 1/8" thick with a 2"x4" plate at the front. The ART and Mopar connectors are 2"x2" but the slimmer bars allow you to tuck them up closer to the floor pans. You *could* match the floor pan and weld them along the entire length but it's probably unneccessary unless you want a race car.

Here are some pics that I have (none of these are my cars though):






Troy

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

John Paseman from www.uscartool.com is working on "formed" or "molded" frame conectors for E & B bodies (soon).  These are weld in and are cut/contored to fit under the body & conform to all the different shapes of the floor pan for a "looks like it was there from the factory" look.

Heres a link.....

http://www.uscartool.com/Eframeconn/index.html

[Ghoste]

There are also some bars out there which require some cutting of the floor pan and consequent welding up there but you should be able to do the job without cutting.
As to spot or continuous weld, how hard are you going to be twisting the car?

[4402tuff4u]

Thanks guys for the respond. I just color printed these photos and I'm going to discuss this with my body guy. Going to ask him if it's easier if I buy the rails connectors already made as per Chris's link or have him fabricate them from a steel square tube or channel.

Ghoste, I just figured if the welder is going to be installing these connector's and working under the car, why not just have him weld the whole length. Welding the entire length might seal the joint to avoid moisture penetration. But then again, spot welding might look better "more factory" type. The car is not going to be a race car by any means, it's just going to have a tweaked up 440. Thanks for your advise.     

[Ghoste]

I've heard of cars done both ways.  I think if it were me, I would be mostly concerned about good welds at the ends where it butts up to the rails.  I would likely weld the length along the floor pans too.

[phat69charger]

4402tuff4u, what you asked to see was how   was the emergency brakes were integrated with frame connectors here's two pictures of my car hope you can see what your looking for and I also have the leaf spring inboard kit and the rear mount for the e brake cable had to relocated back into the same area that it was mounted before,   so it had to be welded on to the inboard kit front mounting bracket.

[Rolling_Thunder]

my E-brake cable actually runs over the connector...   sorry no pics right now...     but if you wanted you can cut a 2" slot in the connector which will allow the E-brake calb to pass right through

[Duey]

Troy, did you fab the torque boxes in your pics, as well?  How much does that add to stiffness beyond the sub-frame connectors?

Cheers,
Duey

[Troy]

The pics I posted are not of any of my cars (see my note just above the first picture). Those torque boxes are the ones from Auto Rust Technicians and I do have a set going on my car. I just haven't made it to the point of installing them yet or I'd post pics of those too. They should definitely add some stiffness even with the subframe conectors because they help tie the rockers to the front and rear subframes. Every little bit helps on a 37 year old car.

Troy

[Mfr426]

Looks like the guy has them done. B-body is $129 for the pair.

http://www.uscartool.com/Bframeconn/index.html

This is a really, really slick idea!!!! I wish I had seen this BEFORE I did my interior!

NICE!

Mike R

[Rolling_Thunder]

.....ill stick with my $5.00 job

[PocketThunder]

Looks like the guy has them done. B-body is $129 for the pair.

http://www.uscartool.com/Bframeconn/index.html

This is a really, really slick idea!!!! I wish I had seen this BEFORE I did my interior!

NICE!

Mike R

Damn those are sweet!   I wish i had paid attention to getting these when i still had my Charger on the rotisserie!

[472 R/T SE]

Those look nice PT.  I just picked up a set from Mancini that are bolt in.  I like the looks of those so much better.

[Charger_Fan]

Must be the same set these guys have...for one whole dollar less.

http://www.magnumhp.com/drivesusp.php
(scroll almost to the bottom)

[472 R/T SE]

I'm gonna buy their driveline loop, another bolt up piece from them CF.  I don't know what to expect from the 472 so..hold on I guess.

[firefighter3931]

Those look nice PT.  I just picked up a set from Mancini that are bolt in.  I like the looks of those so much better.

Mike, if you got the MP units i would suggest you have them welded in. The last 2 pics in Troy's post are of my 68 with the welded in MP frame connecters. The 472 will make a lot of torque and if it hooks hard the chassis will flex and wrinkle your quarters, tear the door jambs etc...

The us cartool connecters are pretty trick...incorporating the floorpans into the front to rear frame ties. A set of those along with some torque boxes would make for a pretty stiff chassis. 

I've also got the driveshaft loop....a very nice piece and no drilling into the floorpans for brackets which is a bonus. 

Ron

[Mefirst]

I also used the MP frame connectors.. Here is a pic, they are still just bolted on, but Ill be welding them before my ride hits the track this summer..
In the pic you also see the drive shaft loop, one of the prev. owners had already mounted it...



/Tom

[472 R/T SE]

I'm really apprehensive about welding.  I like the looks of the floor forming ones, they look like the best for structural.  Maybe just a few beads, I worked with an ironworker who can thro' down some nice slag.

Ron, what if I leave the slicks off?      I want to at least run it a few times to see where it's at.

[Mefirst]

I'm really apprehensive about welding. I like the looks of the floor forming ones, they look like the best for structural. Maybe just a few beads, I worked with an ironworker who can thro' down some nice slag.

Ron, what if I leave the slicks off? I want to at least run it a few times to see where it's at.

Just let her rip.. I dont think youll hook up like a MOFKér and have 2 feet of air under your front wheels, even if you run her on slicks.. I think youll be OK even if you dont have the subframe connectors welded, only bolted... I only have the ones on my ride bolted on, and depending on how lazy I am, it might be that Ill hit the track without welding them at al.. and im not worried Ill f..k something up cause of that..

My

[firefighter3931]

Ron, what if I leave the slicks off?      I want to at least run it a few times to see where it's at.

Hey Mike, as long as it doesn't hook real hard then you'll be allright. When the car has zero tirespin is when things start to get funky. If you're still running the 83/4 in the purple car it might not be a good idea to run slicks anyway. Big torque + Heavy car + 83/4 = BOOM

With a street tire the 83/4 is plenty strong 'cause the wheelspin saves the rear end. You can bolt in the connecters but they'll eventually tear the frame up around the drilled holes...that's why welding is a better option. Heck if you ever want to remove them all you need to do is grind down the welds and repaint. I'm speaking of the MP (Mancini) connecters of course. The US Cartool units look like more of a "permenant" installation. When i do the 70 r/t over i'm gonna use those (US Cartool) connecters. 

Ron