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What to look for in a good body shop?

Started by 440, February 12, 2012, 01:36:19 AM

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440

I know this has probably been posted countless times before but a quick search revealed nothing. What should I look for in a body/restoration shop? My car has been at the current shop for nearly a year and hasn't been started on yet. It keeps getting pushed aside for insurance work.

I'm going to pull it out and get it booked into another shop. Upon looking around shop rates are vastly varied. Anything from $60 - $88 an hour. I'm going to check these places out before bringing the car in.

What should I look out for and whats the sign of a good body shop, for paint and panel replacement? I know quality work costs but I don't want to be ripped off either. I'm in Australia so good shops are pretty far and few between.

Cooter

DO NOT TAKE IT TO A BODYSHOP for restoration type work....PERIOD....



Need to look for a restoration type shop. Be prepared for anywhere between 6months and 2 year wating list. NO instant gratification when having someone else do your work. Slow going, but does go at least.
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

440

Most restoration shops here aside from top dollar shops double as body shops. I'm not doing a full resto, just freshening up a few problem areas of an older resto

bull

First things first. Get your car out of there before worrying about where to take it next.

elacruze

Quote from: Cooter on February 12, 2012, 02:07:26 AM
DO NOT TAKE IT TO A BODYSHOP for restoration type work....PERIOD....



Need to look for a restoration type shop. Be prepared for anywhere between 6months and 2 year wating list. NO instant gratification when having someone else do your work. Slow going, but does go at least.

I'm inclined to agree with Cooter.

If you have to use a regular bump and dent shop, ask them what they do to prevent rust under and around the panels and repairs. If they have to think about it too long, or tell you something like 'we use weld-through primer' that's not good enough. They should understand what you're trying to achieve and have some idea how to help with that; though it will cost some time, it will pay off a lot in the durability and lasting repairs.
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

jaak

Quote from: Cooter on February 12, 2012, 02:07:26 AM
DO NOT TAKE IT TO A BODYSHOP for restoration type work....PERIOD....



Need to look for a restoration type shop. Be prepared for anywhere between 6months and 2 year wating list. NO instant gratification when having someone else do your work. Slow going, but does go at least.

:iagree: Best advise to listen to! I was just talking to a friend the other day, most body shops now are in the insurance repair business. Most shops don't even like to do complete paint jobs anymore, because quick and easy money is made on 'fender bender' insurance repairs. Your best bet is 1.) A shop/business that specializes in auto restoration. Now this is going to be the most expensive route.  2.) Find a fellow hobbiest who knows how to do body/paint and likes to do 'side work' out of his (or her) own garage. Be sure you look at other work they do and really do your homework before letting them touch your car. Usually folks that do this (around here) require you to pay for and/or deliver the materials they need to them, but their labor rate will be somewhat less than a business. And finally 3.) Which is what I had to do.....do it myself. I had some (limited) body/paint experience, so I got all the education I could, online forums, advise from pros, and friends, and just tackled it myself. I got more time than I do money, took me a while, had to purchase a few tools I didn't have, but completed the job myself.

Good luck,
Jason

bill440rt

Finding a collision shop that also does "restoration" work is far & few between. Most don't want to do it, there's no money in it for them with a car that lingers. Others just don't have a grasp on what a "real" restoration entails. Sure, panel replacement & paint is fine, but for an "actual" restoration most don't have a clue.

Like Bull said, get your car OUT OF THERE. Bring it home, take some time to do some research on local shops if a resto shop is out of your reach down there. Talk to other shop owners. If they are old car enthusiasts themselves you might have a better chance. Talk to owners of cars they have had work done by them. Ask the shop owner for referrals, etc. If they are a good competent shop, then they should have no qualms about giving you a referral (unless there is a privacy issue).

And yes, other options are to buddy up with some knowledgeable friends, or do it yourself. But, if you've never done it before you may not get the results you hoped for.
Good luck to you!
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

charger_fan_4ever

My take on it.

Musclecar hobby is pretty small in most areas, so how can you set up shop to do restorations when there are no people out there with $$ and cars to restore.

My brother used to take on jobs, but most people have no clue what is involved and think they can get a complete restoration on a rust bucket for $5-10k with parts included done and painted.

Wasn't worth the hassle. If he does do any it is by the hour and there has to be a deposit up front and the owners have to come by to see the work in progress. All is documented with pics and once the $$ is used up the work stops. Hard to estimate as who knows what mess lies under the paint.