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Painters please help! It's home and painted!

Started by b5blue, February 02, 2012, 07:19:12 PM

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Silver R/T

Epoxy primer can go on bare steel and does not require self etching primer (self etching primer is old school, barely anyone uses it anymore)
2K urethane primer is usually high build primer that you put on 2-3 heavy wet coats after you've done bodywork/filler and then you block sand it starting with 180 and finishing off with 400/600 wet.
There is primer sealer (you just reduce epoxy primer) and use it as a sealer, you can do this with SPI epoxy. You put on very thin wet coat over entire car before you paint, to fill in any small sanding scratches (400 grit) and to provide better adhesion for your topcoat (paint)
http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks

1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722

jaak

Don't use etching primer, use epoxy. FYI, a lot of epoxy's are not compatible with etching primer. (Be sure to read tech sheets for products you are using!)

Jason

Domino

adding to Silver's post....consider contrasting colors epoxy vs blocking primer (i.e.black vs grey), that way you'll know to stop blocking BEFORE busting through to bare metal.

b5blue

 :2thumbs: If I topcoat my urethane primer soon can I not use epoxy? (Or vise verse). I'm trying to just use 1 type primer.

superbirdtom

Ive gone through this threa before. and ,a friend of mine had a rusty old challenger and the car was in bare metal but sat around for a couple years outside, and was a rust nightmare.    Our shop did not want to tackle that job.    so a back yarder who actually knows a little about painting.  used the eastwood cover it all up  rust block primer..  well its been ten years   until it started showing a little rust,   and im not sure its from the outside surface rust.  anyway   the stuff impressed the hell outta me. 

                          If you just want a protector to put on until you can really get in ther an do it all up right id suggest the eastwood all in one  rust block, best stuff out their besides bouey paint.

b5blue

Tom do you mean Rust Encapsulator? (That's what I started using.)

superbirdtom

Quote from: b5blue on February 08, 2012, 04:58:58 PM
Tom do you mean Rust Encapsulator? (That's what I started using.)

                  I believe thats what he used.    It blocks off moisture and oxygen so rust cannot keep rusting.  But you have to topcoat it.    Ive used por 15  without topcoating it and it will rust like a pig. I would go with the eastwood rust encasulator.  still gring  da or something to get it as clean as you can. first  then aply the stuff and  then do your   thick prime and paint job.   

b5blue

Well this is good news, the roof is striped/sandblasted and coated with that stuff. The whole reason for this topic was to figure out how to proceed from that start. I've read much on primers both urethane and epoxy from several sites and mfg's spec. sheets.   :2thumbs:

Patronus

I've tried Eastwood Rust Encapsulator and primer didnt seem to stick too well on the outer body.. :shruggy:
'73 Cuda 340 5spd RMS
'69 Charger 383 "Luci"
'08 CRF 450r
'12.5 450SX FE

Hudson Hornet !

Quote from: bill440rt on February 04, 2012, 10:36:43 PM
Quote from: hemi-hampton on February 04, 2012, 10:25:31 PM
Could always go to MAACO.  I prefer Dupont Centari single stage. Do they still make that? LEON.


Yep. Last I checked, they still do Leon.  :yesnod:
However, given the heat & humidity where Neal is from is why I suggested a urethane such as ChromaOne. Centari is good as far as acrylic enamel goes, but a urethane based paint is better.

I grew up on Centari and still think the world of it. Don't forget the performance pack which makes Centari like urethane.
You've never heard of a Hudson hornet ? !

bill440rt

Quote from: Hudson Hornet ! on February 09, 2012, 10:53:02 PM
Quote from: bill440rt on February 04, 2012, 10:36:43 PM
Quote from: hemi-hampton on February 04, 2012, 10:25:31 PM
Could always go to MAACO.  I prefer Dupont Centari single stage. Do they still make that? LEON.


Yep. Last I checked, they still do Leon.  :yesnod:
However, given the heat & humidity where Neal is from is why I suggested a urethane such as ChromaOne. Centari is good as far as acrylic enamel goes, but a urethane based paint is better.

I grew up on Centari and still think the world of it. Don't forget the performance pack which makes Centari like urethane.


No way!  :o  They still make the performance pack?? That's great!! I remember using that stuff with Centari, painted many cars with it.  :yesnod:
I thought for sure it would have made it's way to extinction already like Lucite.
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

superbirdtom

Quote from: bill440rt on February 09, 2012, 11:08:39 PM
Quote from: Hudson Hornet ! on February 09, 2012, 10:53:02 PM
Quote from: bill440rt on February 04, 2012, 10:36:43 PM
Quote from: hemi-hampton on February 04, 2012, 10:25:31 PM
Could always go to MAACO.  I prefer Dupont Centari single stage. Do they still make that? LEON.


Yep. Last I checked, they still do Leon.  :yesnod:
However, given the heat & humidity where Neal is from is why I suggested a urethane such as ChromaOne. Centari is good as far as acrylic enamel goes, but a urethane based paint is better.     

going for the cheap  cantari is good Ive shot hundreds of gallons of it  i still like it.

I grew up on Centari and still think the world of it. Don't forget the performance pack which makes Centari like urethane.


No way!  :o  They still make the performance pack?? That's great!! I remember using that stuff with Centari, painted many cars with it.  :yesnod:
I thought for sure it would have made it's way to extinction already like Lucite.

b5blue

  I see Kirker has the same, Acrylic enamel with urethane added.... :scratchchin:  and good news my supplier will loan me a 3M adhesive gun for my patch panels.  :2thumbs:
  Anyone use Evercoat's Quantum 1 body filler system? My supplier said he will give me some to try for free!

b5blue

 I found a great price for a gal. of Kirker Brilliant White urethane (activator included.) 73.00+shipping. (A 90's Chrysler paint code.)  :scratchchin:
  How many gal. for the whole car?

superbirdtom

Quote from: b5blue on February 11, 2012, 05:25:02 PM
  I see Kirker has the same, Acrylic enamel with urethane added.... :scratchchin:  and good news my supplier will loan me a 3M adhesive gun for my patch panels.  :2thumbs:
  Anyone use Evercoat's Quantum 1 body filler system? My supplier said he will give me some to try for free!



Believe it or not i tied some NAPA tec one supreme bondo. its a little runny but its all our shop uses now it sands very well its the best bondo ive used to date beating uot all others . thers very very little fine pinholes  .. its worth a try I tried some bondo gene winfield got called( Filler up)  and the holes were more like craters.  trust me with the NAPA tec one.

b5blue

The Quantum 1 uses a caulk gun with mixing tips....no air mixed in!   :2thumbs:

superbirdtom

If what you want to do is bury all the old ,,including rust and old paint and crap . then id go with the eastwood stuff.   you can let it sit for quite some time.  and you can always recoat anythig. just go over it with soe 320 on a da  and wipe down with a mild wax and grease  then over reduce some epoxy for your first coat ,and im talking just a fog coat ten follow with two full wet coats , wait 20 minutes for flash time.    

Ive really only used  corlar epoxy from dupont napas epoxy and ppg epoxy.  theirs a lot of shops that use ppg epoxy and topcoat with something else as its very good epoxy.  I reduce out ppg's epoxy 10% so as to not get orangepeel  cause paint goes over it right away.  ppg epoxy will work under any paint system . I like the grey dp-50 LF  it covers very well. you can also tint it ,I just did a yellow mustang and put a little 4% toner in it and it was a yellowish base that covered better.  

superbirdtom

Quote from: b5blue on February 12, 2012, 01:01:32 PM
The Quantum 1 uses a caulk gun with mixing tips....no air mixed in!   :2thumbs:

Ive seen that stuff in a magazine, Id like to try out all new technologies.  but I just use what makes me the most money and is the fastest.    Is it worth gettin?

b5blue

  I'm gonna try some and report back. I found for a production shop with tech's well experienced in this, it is most likely too costly. Retail is 20 a cartridge but I found it cheaper so will see. I suck at gauging how much hardener to add and mixing fast so for the many small repairs I have it could be a great help.  There are videos on YouTube from Evercoat on it. One of the advantages of this "temporary paint job" is I'll find what works and what fails. I can go right back in to fix and re-shoot the area.     

b5blue

  Update, Eastwood has their 1 to 1 epoxy primer gallon on sale for 59.00 with free gallon of activator. I think it's re-branded Kirker products they use so I got some to try. @ 2 gallons mixed for about 71 bucks shipped it's worth a shot. Some forums have said the Kirker epoxy primer is good and Harbor Freight HVLP spray gun is actually not a bad working unit so I picked up one of them and a gravity feed gun to try out. As this first shoot will be sanded down and having filler and other repairs done I'm not to worried if the guns suck.   :lol:  If they do work OK I can use them 1 or 2 times and throw them out they are so cheap.

hemi-hampton

YES, The cheap $30 Harbor Freight spray guns work good for primer & sealer. I use them. Primer guns gets trashed pretty quick & I dont like the ideal of trashing a good $300+ Sata Jet, Devilbiss, Binks, awata, ect, ect.  LEON.

jaak

Quote from: b5blue on April 07, 2012, 09:30:53 AM
  Update, Eastwood has their 1 to 1 epoxy primer gallon on sale for 59.00 with free gallon of activator. I think it's re-branded Kirker products they use so I got some to try. @ 2 gallons mixed for about 71 bucks shipped it's worth a shot. Some forums have said the Kirker epoxy primer is good and Harbor Freight HVLP spray gun is actually not a bad working unit so I picked up one of them and a gravity feed gun to try out. As this first shoot will be sanded down and having filler and other repairs done I'm not to worried if the guns suck.   :lol:  If they do work OK I can use them 1 or 2 times and throw them out they are so cheap.

Yes, Eastwood (and Summit brand) paints and primers are relabeled Kirker. Pretty decent stuff for the money, I have used the epoxy before and its pretty good.

Jason

Dino

Quote from: hemi-hampton on April 07, 2012, 09:37:46 PM
YES, The cheap $30 Harbor Freight spray guns work good for primer & sealer. I use them. Primer guns gets trashed pretty quick & I dont like the ideal of trashing a good $300+ Sata Jet, Devilbiss, Binks, awata, ect, ect.  LEON.

:iagree:

The cheaper guns are perfect for primers, they lack the finesse of the good guns and that's absolutely perfect for primers!
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

bill440rt

Quote from: Dino on April 08, 2012, 08:36:45 AM
Quote from: hemi-hampton on April 07, 2012, 09:37:46 PM
YES, The cheap $30 Harbor Freight spray guns work good for primer & sealer. I use them. Primer guns gets trashed pretty quick & I dont like the ideal of trashing a good $300+ Sata Jet, Devilbiss, Binks, awata, ect, ect.  LEON.

:iagree:

The cheaper guns are perfect for primers, they lack the finesse of the good guns and that's absolutely perfect for primers!

x3   :yesnod:

I'm using a cheap a Central Pneumatic HVLP gravity feed gun purchased at a swap meet for my primer gun. Works just fine, lays it on nice.
I'll save my nice SATA for clear.
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

b5blue