69 Charger Rear Window Trim---Glued On?

[Chatt69chgr]

I spent all afternoon removing the stainless trim around the outside of the rear window.    For a while I didn't think I was going to get it off.  Why?  Because not only was it held on with the regular clips but it was GLUED ON.  Were these pieces glued on from the factory?

And who makes a good rear window?  I scratched mine getting the trim off.

[Ghoste]

No glue when new, someone added that later.  AMD is reproducing glass but I have no idea about quality.

[Ryan]

AMD glass is good. Mine fit great.

[bill440rt]

The moldings should be held on with clips only, but nearly every one I've ever pulled off have had some kind of goop on them.

[Patronus]

AMD glass will have tempering marks in it. 

[Silver R/T]

I believe factory did glue them on, Mine has never been off and when it was pulled there was glue on both corners

[Brock Lee]

The back window has butyl between it and the body of the car. It appears that the factory would put a wad of extra butyl in the corners and sink the trim into it as well as snap into clips. I have seen it on every Charger I have worked on and it s always the same, funky material. On some cars, the metal is rotted and some comes up attached to the butyl and is stuck to the corners. It is a pain to remove.

[doctor4766]

That butyl tape often oozes out, particularly in hot climates,where the glass can often sink closer to the body too.
There should have been no need to add extra in the corners when new as the tape comes in a roll.

[Brock Lee]

I don't think they used tape. It looks like it was injected on with a gun.

[doctor4766]

Oh, ok. Carry on then....

[bill440rt]

FSM specifies the use of butyl tape.
The butyl will have some liquid properties when softened, such has heat from the sun, etc. Not like it's gonna flow & drip down the 1/4 panel or anything, but it can "ooze".
They very well may have packed a bit more in the corners, but it's not designed to hold the moldings in place. That is what the clips are for.

[superbirdtom]

FSM specifies the use of butyl tape.
The butyl will have some liquid properties when softened, such has heat from the sun, etc. Not like it's gonna flow & drip down the 1/4 panel or anything, but it can "ooze".
They very well may have packed a bit more in the corners, but it's not designed to hold the moldings in place. That is what the clips are for.

                THEIRS ALSO DIFFERENT DIAMETERS OF BUTYL TAPE   MAYBE USE THE NEXT SIZE UP AND IT WON'T SHRINK FROM THE GLASS- LEAVNIG A SPACE . JUST A THOUGHT

[bill440rt]

FSM specifies the use of butyl tape.
The butyl will have some liquid properties when softened, such has heat from the sun, etc. Not like it's gonna flow & drip down the 1/4 panel or anything, but it can "ooze".
They very well may have packed a bit more in the corners, but it's not designed to hold the moldings in place. That is what the clips are for.

                THEIRS ALSO DIFFERENT DIAMETERS OF BUTYL TAPE   MAYBE USE THE NEXT SIZE UP AND IT WON'T SHRINK FROM THE GLASS- LEAVNIG A SPACE . JUST A THOUGHT

Good thought, but if the wrong thickness is used the moldings won't clip on properly or they will be placed too far from the glass & won't sit flush.
Other members have had problems with the back glass moldings not fitting properly with the vinyl top trim where they meet from incorrect thickness butyl.
IIRC, the correct thickness should be 3/8", but don't hold me to that.
Sorry for the tangent...

[Brock Lee]

If you look installed backglass, it is obvious they did not use the tape in the original build. The bead is far from consistent and when you use the piano wire to slice through it, some areas of the bead will be narrow and easy to cut through, some wide and very hard to get through. The tape is designed for easy application in service without requiring a special tool. I know glass guys that use the gun as there are now cordless versions available.

[superbirdtom]

If the factory used some kind of old fashioned stuff from a gun , you can use some rubber set spacers,  that you can whittle down. put spacers in first and cut to exact height and when you use your battery powererd urethane gun like I have then the glass can be set at any height. Our shop does all the glass work in town and weve been through it all.   even old cars , its an old trick cause you have to get it right.  between me and other guys theirs 8 mopars owned.   were starting one resto, a 70 charger r/t   so when the back window comes out ill watch to see whats up and report back later . its getting full quarters and a roof, not to mention about everything else.