Anyone Use This Type Of Propane Heater In Garage?

[A383Wing]

If so, wouldn't you be afraid of Co2 gas if used in closed garage?

just wondering.....

Bryan

[Old Moparz]

I have one, paid close to $185 for it when I needed one to assemble my lift in February one year. I don't use it & have a kerosene one now that's much bigger with many more BTU's. The one you posted a pic of was too small for my garage, & just sucked up all the propane leaving me cold. The fumes weren't as bad as the kerosene fumes, but they still "stink" so you have to leave a door or window open to ventilate.

The propane one I have was used only once & put back in the box. I had it listed on here for sale for $100, but nobody wanted it.   

[skip68]

I bought one like yours and took it back.  It wasn't efficient at all.  I love my kerosene torpedo heater.  This is mine and is perfect for my climate.   

[bobs66440]

I have this portable one to take the chill off and the ceiling mounted one to maintain the temp. The floor one does suck the oxygen out of the area for sure, but at 250,000 BTU, it doesn't take long to warm up the garage.

[J.Bond]

Bryan;
Any open flame heating device, in a closed area, is just not good. Some of us are limited on exiting brain cells as it is!!!!. Kerosene or propane, really , your only one step away from a 45 gallon drum and a pile of wood. Had a wood stove in my large shop untill my insurance company saw it. They were Ok with it as long as it was not the main heat source, however it is still open flame. Not to menhtion if you turn on the spray booth with out shutting down the stove, the vacume and the draw will empty the ash tray into the shop in less than 2 minutes.

Bottom line, you only get what you pay for, these heaters are construction grade heaters, not permanent heating devices.


Bob;
WOW!!!! Just guessing, your cieling mount furnace is , late 70's early 80's.First thing that might be a concern, I just can't see that unit being zero clearence, you have it butted up to that wood cieling???second it's hard for me to tell from that pic, is that 4 in venting, double wall that passes thru your wood cieling, not to mention the vent hole looks like it was cut in a d shape, I hope the vent is resting against the joist.We are required to install a fire stop at every entrance thru combustibles, gives you an extra inch clearance between combustibles.

I think Canada has tougher standards, than the States. And that would explain why I grew up watching Irv Weinstien always reporting that Buffalo was always on fire somewhere

[chargerboy69]

I use a similar propane salamander to yours, only mine is 175,000 btu I believe.  It works perfect, keeps my 70X45 shop warm.  You have to crack a window or garage door.  

[bobs66440]

Bob;
WOW!!!! Just guessing, your cieling mount furnace is , late 70's early 80's.First thing that might be a concern, I just can't see that unit being zero clearence, you have it butted up to that wood cieling???second it's hard for me to tell from that pic, is that 4 in venting, double wall that passes thru your wood cieling, not to mention the vent hole looks like it was cut in a d shape, I hope the vent is resting against the joist.We are required to install a fire stop at every entrance thru combustibles, gives you an extra inch clearance between combustibles.

There is a 4-1/2" gap between the heater and ceiling. The vent is not touching the joist and is clear of everything until it gets to the roof. Not sure if it's double wall or not. I had this installed about 17 years ago. It has been working fine. 

[J.Bond]

Bob;
WOW!!!! Just guessing, your cieling mount furnace is , late 70's early 80's.First thing that might be a concern, I just can't see that unit being zero clearence, you have it butted up to that wood cieling???second it's hard for me to tell from that pic, is that 4 in venting, double wall that passes thru your wood cieling, not to mention the vent hole looks like it was cut in a d shape, I hope the vent is resting against the joist.We are required to install a fire stop at every entrance thru combustibles, gives you an extra inch clearance between combustibles.

There is a 4-1/2" gap between the heater and ceiling. The vent is not touching the joist and is clear of everything until it gets to the roof. Not sure if it's double wall or not. I had this installed about 17 years ago. It has been working fine. 

BOB;
Is there a rating plate attached to the unit, Btu, rating. Should have the top,side and bottom clearances marked on it,double check just to make sure, even installing a 1/2 sheet of drywal as a fire stop above the furnace is just added protection. Double wall pipe or not, something you should investigate, Is this your house garage or a seperate dwelling. If it's your home shop, I would bring it up to code , plus extra

[bobs66440]

Bob;
WOW!!!! Just guessing, your cieling mount furnace is , late 70's early 80's.First thing that might be a concern, I just can't see that unit being zero clearence, you have it butted up to that wood cieling???second it's hard for me to tell from that pic, is that 4 in venting, double wall that passes thru your wood cieling, not to mention the vent hole looks like it was cut in a d shape, I hope the vent is resting against the joist.We are required to install a fire stop at every entrance thru combustibles, gives you an extra inch clearance between combustibles.

There is a 4-1/2" gap between the heater and ceiling. The vent is not touching the joist and is clear of everything until it gets to the roof. Not sure if it's double wall or not. I had this installed about 17 years ago. It has been working fine.  

BOB;
Is there a rating plate attached to the unit, Btu, rating. Should have the top,side and bottom clearances marked on it,double check just to make sure, even installing a 1/2 sheet of drywal as a fire stop above the furnace is just added protection. Double wall pipe or not, something you should investigate, Is this your house garage or a seperate dwelling. If it's your home shop, I would bring it up to code , plus extra

This is in a separate 20x40 garage. I'll check the data plate. Thanks!

[A383Wing]

well, this is what I have now, but it takes a long time to warm the 5 car garage to a comfortable working level...I was just wondering how to warm it up faster

Bryan

[skip68]

Bryan, you need to get a 150k-200k kerosene forced air torpedo heater.   Ready heater is a good brand.   

[Tilar]

I've had those in the past and you get one big enough they do a great job. I don't use one now, I leave the heat at 50 degrees in our shop and then bump it up to 60 when I want to work in it. Doesn't take long to warm it up another 10 degrees. Cost me roughly $100 a month to keep it heated all the time and it's 34 x 64.

[J.Bond]

I've had those in the past and you get one big enough they do a great job. I don't use one now, I leave the heat at 50 degrees in our shop and then bump it up to 60 when I want to work in it. Doesn't take long to warm it up another 10 degrees. Cost me roughly $100 a month to keep it heated all the time and it's 34 x 64.

Tiller,Leaving some heat on is the way to go, however, you must be in a much warmer climate, my main shop is 35x70x 15 h tinned wood frame with 4 in of spray foam insulation, I can rip thru 20 to 25 dollars a day in heating oil!!!!

Trade you seasonal heating bills

Bryan; Same thing here, oil, 120,000 btu.Cieling fans an absolute must for forced air furnaces. When I get around to it( this is good) I bought an infra red tube heater 10 years ago==I've been really busy, don't ask!!!! This might( I said might) be the year it goes up. Interesting to see if the heating bill goes down or stays the same. Keep in mind with the forced air we are heating the roof, with the tube heater we are heating the floor and the contents

[The70RT]

I had both propane and kerosene heaters at one time but got rid of them. They may be OK if your not in the garage very often. If you have to leave a window open in really cold weather they are useless. Wood is the way to go you just have to use common sense when it comes down to safety. I like working in a tee shirt
So you can her it nice and toasty with minimal cost. For about a grand you can get a used stove and piping if you look around on Craigslist. Wood is free too if you pick it up when they do the regular and pruning around power lines.

[Tilar]

I've had those in the past and you get one big enough they do a great job. I don't use one now, I leave the heat at 50 degrees in our shop and then bump it up to 60 when I want to work in it. Doesn't take long to warm it up another 10 degrees. Cost me roughly $100 a month to keep it heated all the time and it's 34 x 64.

Tiller,Leaving some heat on is the way to go, however, you must be in a much warmer climate, my main shop is 35x70x 15 h tinned wood frame with 4 in of spray foam insulation, I can rip thru 20 to 25 dollars a day in heating oil!!!!

Trade you seasonal heating bills

I'm in north central Ohio, probably 60 miles or so north of Columbus. After spending 30 years in the Great state of Texas, It's hardly what I'd call a "warmer climate"  

Mines insulated well, radiant heat with propane. http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,5863.msg662774.html#msg662774

[bobs66440]

I've had those in the past and you get one big enough they do a great job. I don't use one now, I leave the heat at 50 degrees in our shop and then bump it up to 60 when I want to work in it. Doesn't take long to warm it up another 10 degrees. Cost me roughly $100 a month to keep it heated all the time and it's 34 x 64.

Tiller,Leaving some heat on is the way to go, however, you must be in a much warmer climate, my main shop is 35x70x 15 h tinned wood frame with 4 in of spray foam insulation, I can rip thru 20 to 25 dollars a day in heating oil!!!!

Trade you seasonal heating bills

I'm in north central Ohio, probably 60 miles or so north of Columbus. After spending 30 years in the Great state of Texas, It's hardly what I'd call a "warmer climate"  

Mines insulated well, radiant heat with propane. http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,5863.msg662774.html#msg662774

That's an awesome garage Tilar! It looked so big empty. Amazing how fast it fills up! I have the same problem!

[The70RT]

I've had those in the past and you get one big enough they do a great job. I don't use one now, I leave the heat at 50 degrees in our shop and then bump it up to 60 when I want to work in it. Doesn't take long to warm it up another 10 degrees. Cost me roughly $100 a month to keep it heated all the time and it's 34 x 64.

Tiller,Leaving some heat on is the way to go, however, you must be in a much warmer climate, my main shop is 35x70x 15 h tinned wood frame with 4 in of spray foam insulation, I can rip thru 20 to 25 dollars a day in heating oil!!!!

Trade you seasonal heating bills

I'm in north central Ohio, probably 60 miles or so north of Columbus. After spending 30 years in the Great state of Texas, It's hardly what I'd call a "warmer climate"  

Mines insulated well, radiant heat with propane. http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,5863.msg662774.html#msg662774

That's an awesome garage Tilar! It looked so big empty. Amazing how fast it fills up! I have the same problem!

The more stuff in the garage less space to heat 

[Tilar]

That's an awesome garage Tilar! It looked so big empty. Amazing how fast it fills up! I have the same problem!

Yeah it's full, I can't even walk from one end to the other without walking around something. Now I guess I gotta build one for my cars. 

[Todd Wilson]

well, this is what I have now, but it takes a long time to warm the 5 car garage to a comfortable working level...I was just wondering how to warm it up faster

Bryan

I'd roll some insulation into those walls as fast as you can! It would make a big difference!


We've talked about the fumes generated by the heaters but dont forget about the fumes generated by us working. Paint or solvent fumes!  A build up of fumes and a heater running can go boom!

Todd