Voltage Regulation on High Output Alternator - 1968 Charger

[68neverlate]

Hey guys... hoping for some help on this one.  I've recently upgraded to a 100 amp alternator (single field; 4.2 amp rotor) and have completed all the related wiring upgrades.  Other than the recent upgrades, my car is original.  I appear to have lots of power at idle regardless of the load (ammeter needle to right of centre and no hint of discharge), however, I am encountering pulsating on the electrical output to the car (headlights, dash lights, brake lights etc.).  It appears to be voltage regulation... I have the old style mechanical regulator on right now.  I've checked my main grounds and all appear OK.  All fuses are OK, so I don't think I've got any shorts or anything.  I tried a cheapo solid state regulator from my local shop here and thought I had it licked.  The ammeter needle was again right of centre and rock steady for about 3 minutes after starting the engine, but as soon as I hit the headlight switch, the car engine died immediately.  Attempt to re-start the engine and nothing.  Swapped the old v/r back in and it fired right up again, along with the pulsing. 

Is there a solid state v/r that will handle the output of a 100 amp alternator without issues??

Appreciate any help anyone can pass along!            

[Chryco Psycho]

the 70 up reg should have no issue , it switches ground after the load so it should be fine , the Cummins/Dodge had a HD unit in 89 so that may be a better unit to use but looks the same

[68neverlate]

Appreciate the reply CP.   

If I use the 70 and up electronic regulator, I'd need to do a few wiring modifications and switch to the duel field alternator to make that work... right?

[Nacho-RT74]

yes, however you have elec upgrades old scholl reg kind available around now, what won't need to modify to dual field. Its the same reg from outside than the old one but elec internals. There are several sources for that


here is one:
http://www.davesmopar.com/prod01.htm

dunno if the best or not, but an option

[Chryco Psycho]

but the load on the reg will be higher as the old type switch positive not neg for the field

[68neverlate]

Looks like my voltage regulation issues may be behind me guys.      

I put the same electronic voltage regulator on that I thought I'd burned up the first time and this time I had success.  I took that regulator back to the auto electric shop that I got it from and they tested it out and said it was fine.  So I put it back on.   I think I may have not had a good ground the first time and that's why I had a problem (the engine died when I turned on my headlights).  I've checked and confirmed that my headlight circuit does not have a short, so it's the only other thing that makes sense.

I did find out that the shop did NOT put in a 70's style rotor in the alternator they built for me as first thought.  It's one that is normally used in the alternator that went into 68's. 

I do like the look of stock parts (and my car is stock with the exception of electronic ignition), so I'll be checking into that link you passed me Nacho on the electronic internals in the stock looking case.  I'd much rather do that than switch over to the 70's style regulator which doesn't look anything like the ones on the '68s...   

Appreciate your interest in replying guys...