1969 R/T SE parts car - Should I buy it.

[Surf Charger]

Pulled the rear defroster/wiring out. Funny how much stuff fell out of the rear defroster. Heres what came out:

-27 puzzle pieces
-1 plastic Gary's Food Center food stamp coin worth .25 cents
-2 wooden matches
-1 old carefree sugarless gum wrapper
-1 dime dated 1970
-1 yellow crayon

I was told it was a mother's car and her son wrecked it. So I guess he had young kids in the back seat at some point in time!

[404NOTFOUND]

Looks like the kids were pretty wild. Maybe it was one of them who wrecked it when he grew up.

[Surf Charger]

Ok last post on this thread with some pictures to boot. I've started to dig into it and there does not seem to be as much major rust as I expected there to be other than skin rust.

Here's the deal: This RT has NO fender tag. NO broadcast sheet. Had a buddy look at it who does body work. Said the frame is slightly bent in the front but not by much. Can be straightened. Upon careful inspection, the frame does not seem to be affected by rust...only outer skin. The connection points for the roof skin (around windshield, rear glass, rain gutters) is rusted through. Rear deck (inside under glass) is eaten away. Definitly bad rust in/around the trunk area. But I've been inspired by some pictures of restorations on this forum and it seems like there are other chargers in far worse condition.

However, with NO fender tag and NO broadcast sheet, do you guys think this would be worth putting money into it to restore a little bit over time? This is not something I would want to lose a bunch of money on. If I had to dump 50k into it then I'd just assume buy one that someone has already done all the work. But if I could put some money into getting the body work done, I could take over with putting it back together a little bit over time and just leave it in the garage. 

I'd love to have an original RT SE restored...even if its just driver condition and not showroom quality. If my buddy can do the body work here and there and eventually get it back to straight with no rust, would it be worth keeping over time and eventually restoring to driver quality? Or does this seem too far gone to fix without dumping boocoo money into it.

I wasn't even looking for this when i found it and to be honest...I listed a want add for bucket seats and A/C parts on craigslist and as a response to the ad, ended up getting an entire R/T SE. I was just going to pull the engine/tranny/3.55 gears, have them rebuilt, and swap them into my current rust free driver (#s matching G-code 383). But now I'm having 2nd thoughts.

I'd like to hear your thoughts. Take in mind, I have no experience with doing bodywork/metalwork. Not to say I wouldn't be afraid of getting my hands dirty. My buddy would do the body work far cheaper than a normal body shop.  I know I will hear both sides but thats what I respect about this forum....the honesty on both sides.

[Ghoste]

It's rotten thats for sure.  With no documentation other than a dash vin, I say if you have the money time and desire to restore, then why not go the restomod route and do it the way you would want to and not have to worry about investment value.  There is something to be said for that too.  Just don't go get a repro fender tag to reflect what you do to the car.

[XS29L9Bxxxxxx]

What are those things in the trunk lid? They look like pipe plugs from here  

See my previous post. Looks like it used to have a luggage rack originally. That was one loaded R/T SE.
If the frame rails are good and there's any chance of giving it a second life, it would be very desirable when finished. If it's soft & squishy and structurally that far gone, well then at least it may live on to save others.

Does look like it had a factory luggage rack 

What did you pay for this car? Just wondering... 

[Troy]

Put the parts on your car and go drive it. If you feel like restoring this one over a long period of time then do that too - but not until you get your other one on the road! That car will need a LOT of sheet metal and a lot of other parts that will nickel and dime you to death. Even with the "good buddy" discount you're going to have a fortune in it. Don't let that impede your desire to have a drivable Charger.

Troy

[PocketThunder]

Put the parts on your car and go drive it. If you feel like restoring this one over a long period of time then do that too - but not until you get your other one on the road! That car will need a LOT of sheet metal and a lot of other parts that will nickel and dime you to death. Even with the "good buddy" discount you're going to have a fortune in it. Don't let that impede your desire to have a drivable Charger.

Troy

And, we all have a good buddy that does body work and we've read time and time again that sometimes the good buddy doesnt work out then you've lost a friend and have an unfinished car or a car that takes 10 years to complete.  I'm with Troy on this one, get one car driving first, and then worry about this one.   

[charger_fan_4ever]

Check out my resto thread. I have close to 10k in AMD metal alone. I get a pretty good deal on body work as my brothers own a body shop. I'll still have probably 30K in it.

Figure on atleast 15k in parts as the interior is close to 3k. The work has not even started yet.

On the up side maybe the buildsheet will show up someday.

I didn't  have 40k for a nicely done R/T to laydown in One shot. Over 3-5 years its more doable.

[XS29LA47V21]

On this threads car, nice options on nice color, if it was a Daytona everyone would be saying save it.    Some would say here is a case of the extent of remove and replace with AMD or whatever is sorta approaching a rebody by logic also.  That appears VERY rusty to me and wrecked, you will not hear me say it very often on a nice optioned rare Charger, maybe the belly is nice, but not likely, but appears more of a parts car to me.
[/quote]

Still looking for thoughts FWIW, ok here you go.  In those first several photos it showed what was needed at minimum to my head.....  The AMD or other supplier in sheet metal or used parts alone to just deal with the rust be.... of the top of my head 7k to 10k plus in loose parts.  My ten cents is go build a spread sheet with AMD parts you will need and discuss with your good friend, maybe it is a project of love.  You will likely be very deep when done which maybe ok with you.   Some might recommend some guru inspecting the car before the project starts and have it certified which I guess with you chase the repop fender tag/bld sht.  I am not sure that is "worth the money" for some cars.  I am an RTSE hound for sure, go ahead and laugh, I would rather have a very rare RTSE then some Daytona's of certain colors and that there car is "uniquely rare" red RTSE you have by some cool options and love to see them saved.  Laugh some more, I do not care for red on Chargers, but it is not about me, it about you, if you love the options and are dedicated emotionally and financially ............  "save" the car.  

My opinion remains , reluctantly, if it was mine it would be parts car.

[Surf Charger]

What are those things in the trunk lid? They look like pipe plugs from here  

See my previous post. Looks like it used to have a luggage rack originally. That was one loaded R/T SE.
If the frame rails are good and there's any chance of giving it a second life, it would be very desirable when finished. If it's soft & squishy and structurally that far gone, well then at least it may live on to save others.

Does look like it had a factory luggage rack  

Paid $1500 for it.

[bakerhillpins]

With no paperwork or fender tag I would think that you would be better off from a $$ standpoint to rebuild the power train and put it into your G-code car as a RT/SE clone car.  You could even pull the color combo and options from this car. From the resale POV I think you wouldn't be in any worse position with a clone and from an investment POV i think you are going to be way ahead.

I suppose the real difference will boil down to the S in the VIN vs the P. If you or a prospective buyer is going to nit pick over that they would probably pass on the car because the Tag/Sheet is missing anyhow.

 

Good luck what ever you decide.  

[bill440rt]

The real deal killer on this is no tag or broadcast sheet. That is one very desirable RT/SE no doubt, but the lack of documentation is gonna make it a tough call. The evidence of the high options are there: rear defrost, luggage rack, A/C, color combo, etc. You could get (dare I say) a repro tag made for the car.

It does look salvageable, but like others have posted it would be a labor of love. Nothing wrong with that, BTW.

[charger_fan_4ever]

Is the Vin # rotted off the trunk gutter ? What about the # on the rad support ? With no tag/bs or body #'s I'd say junk it. If the body #'s are still there well maybe 1 day a build sheet will surface and might be worth the effort $$ to save it. $1500 was cheap enough, but add another 8-9k for starters and you could start with a solid R/T.

Tough call

[Surf Charger]

Is the Vin # rotted off the trunk gutter ? What about the # on the rad support ? With no tag/bs or body #'s I'd say junk it. If the body #'s are still there well maybe 1 day a build sheet will surface and might be worth the effort $$ to save it. $1500 was cheap enough, but add another 8-9k for starters and you could start with a solid R/T.

Tough call

Vin# is still on the trunk gutter and the radiator support. Just missing the fender tag/broadcast sheet. I'd be curious as to what it would cost to get it back up and running as a driver.

Anyways, thanks for all of the tips/suggestions. It definitely had some unique options in its day (luggage rack, rear defrost, A/C, etc). I'm tempted to paint my current G code the same color as the rt...love that color.

Thanks again guys!

[Daytona R/T SE]

Strip it and squish it.

That car is toast.

I've sent rarer cars with less rust to the crusher.

[Carrnutt]

Put the parts on your car and go drive it. If you feel like restoring this one over a long period of time then do that too - but not until you get your other one on the road! That car will need a LOT of sheet metal and a lot of other parts that will nickel and dime you to death. Even with the "good buddy" discount you're going to have a fortune in it. Don't let that impede your desire to have a drivable Charger.

Troy

[BIRD67]

Fixer up, they are getting rarer every day..

[greenpigs]

Put the parts on your car and go drive it. If you feel like restoring this one over a long period of time then do that too - but not until you get your other one on the road! That car will need a LOT of sheet metal and a lot of other parts that will nickel and dime you to death. Even with the "good buddy" discount you're going to have a fortune in it. Don't let that impede your desire to have a drivable Charger.

Troy

I would see if your buddy will show you how to do the work & then do it yourself.  If he is a true friend he shouldn't mind & if he balks then well I wouldn't use him for the work. but that's just me.

Reason would be he is a buddy...not a friend.

[spoolinhard]

^what he said. I also vote to fix. Keep an eye out and you can get sections of rust free metal from chargers past. Much cheaper than AMD that way. Fix up your other car first. This car looks like it will make you wanna pull your hair out if you are waiting to be behind the wheel of it.

[Kern Dog]

Do you know how much the front grill aloen goes for??? those go for a couple grand easy if it has the hideaway lights that is.

I would think that a front end collision would leave the grille in pretty bad shape.

[rt green]

tough call. could pick up a part here and there. in the meantime, sit on it awhile and see how you feel later. it really doesn't have to go anywhere so, keep it awhile. that one fell into your lap, you might run across one that was totalled or something. parts for the parts car. hell, you might get yours running and some fool will run into it. you never know. I've regretted selling alot of stuff in my day.  might be the only charger you own some day               my 2 cents

[Brightyellow69rtse]

well im partial to the r/t se's saying that i say get your car running first. then fix this one over time. i mean unless you have piles of money to throw at the car its gonna take a long time. many a guy have just out right given up during long restorations especially if they had no classic to drive.  i would love to build a 68 one day but i would have to have something to drive in the mean time.

[bull]

I wouldn't restore that one but I wouldn't part it either. Were it me I'd find a buyer who really wanted to restore it and make sure it got saved.

[six-tee-nine]

If I were you I'd be storing it in the best possible conditions (prefered dry in a barn or garage). Then get that other one on the road and where you want it.
Then in a couple of years when you feel like it you can always restore it and go slowly by learning as you go. You wont get frustrated as fast as other guys since you already have a driver.
But thast me of course.

If you dont feel anything for restoring rusted junk (I'm quoting my wife here) then leave it to someone else.

I'm sure there are guys out there like me that really want a body like this one to start out cheap and to build a restomod like they want to....

[BrianShaughnessy]

Strip it and squish it.

That car is toast.

I've sent rarer cars with less rust to the crusher.

      It's possible somebody can save it given enough time and wheelbarrows full of cash.        

         You could always ask for donations from the "save it" crowd...  that oughta shut 'em up