Wiring with 2 starter relays...problem.

[J-440]

  Evening all.  Just finishing up some wiring and have a snag.  I have an aftermarket Powermaster mini starter with a built in relay.  I am also using the stock starter relay thats mounted on the firewall near the master cylinder.  I'm getting power from the post marked BAT from the relay on the firewall, but none of the posts going into the bulkhead are receiving any power.  All of the wires are where they should be except there is no power getting to the key switch.  I'm assuming both relays have something to do with it.  I have done the screwdriver method and the engine will turn, but once again, I wanna do this right.  I have checked Powermaster's website but they show nothing with this issue.  Figured I'd ask the gurus.  Thanks!!

[J-440]

  Awww man, either I asked a really dumb and obvious question or you guys are losing your touch.  12 views and no responses?  That one response may be the one that helps another Charger get up and out of the garage. Lemme know something vatos!!

[Nacho-RT74]

check the yellow wire coming from ign switch. Thats the CRANKING trigger. If you don't have power there its the bulkhead, or ign switch plug or ign switch itself.

[Budnicks]

With out photos of exactly what you talking about, it's kind of hard to guess what it is you have... I should be wired the same way as the original starter... Try www.MyMopar.com they have a tech section with wire diagrams & schematics for every 60's & 70's Mopars....

[J-440]

 Thanks Bud...I'll check it out.  Nacho yeah the yellow wire is connected to the ignition switch.  Everything looks good, I'm just wondering if the 2 solenoids have something to do with my problem.  I think the original stock starters did not have a solenoid on them, thats what the relay is for on the firewall.

[Nacho-RT74]

ok, the yellow wire triggers the positive source from ig switch for the relay, the brown traced yellow feeds negative from NSS in N or P if auto OR comes from Clutch pedal switch if manual. You'll have power coming out from stock relay JUST if both are working at the time.

are you getting ground from brown traced yellow ? you can jump this source directly to chassis just to check if you get ground or not from the original source OR to check if even jumping, the relay doesn't work.

BATT stud is simply constant power input and comes directly from batt, then works also as a splice or buss power source ( fuse link goes there to feed all the car ), then the SOL terminal is the output what feeds the stock starter motor signal once all conditions are given. This is the source you must take to feed the second relay you hooked up.

are you sure to have it on this way ?

( note: stock starter motors are also with internal relay... the solenoid at starter motor is also kinda a relay so everything works the same )

[J-440]

  Have another issue but I will handle that later (2nd fuse box).  Just curious, the threaded stud on the starter relay (firewall), is it supposed to be loose and push all the way into the body of the relay?  I bought this thing new about 4 years ago.  Could have sworn that my old one had a fixed stud.  Thanks again Nacho.

[Budnicks]

  Have another issue but I will handle that later (2nd fuse box).  Just curious, the threaded stud on the starter relay (firewall), is it supposed to be loose and push all the way into the body of the relay?  I bought this thing new about 4 years ago.  Could have sworn that my old one had a fixed stud.  Thanks again Nacho.

That stud should be fixed, replace the relay...

[Nacho-RT74]

However I'm one of those guys that restore the relay. Open the backelite and fix or clean anything inside since I DON'T TRUST ANYMORE on replacement parts, but that's just me. My relay is still the factory one and is still a driver car... eeeehm, huuuh, well, except for this last year and a half LOL