Hydraulic valve Lifters

[71green go]

Just recently finished the rebuild of my 71 440 motor in my 71 R/T.....now I need to put the valve train in......

What are good valve lifters to buy?.....

also are the factory rocker arm setups good enough as is?

Thanks for your help

Steve

[Budnicks]

What kind of cam are you running ?, if it's a performance style higher lift hydraulic camshaft or you just want to get a little more bottom end torque or vacuum...  Just my opinion , Rhoads, Comp Cams, Lunati, Isky or Crane, all of them make decent anti pump-up/variable duration or bleed off style hydraulic lifters, that perform very well, sometimes a little noisier than original style hydraulic lifters when cold, they kill a little duration & lift at low speeds/RPM's to improve low end torque, increase vacuum & driveability, then pump-up to full lift capacity at higher RPM's... You should still always check for the proper push-rod lengths, no matter what style or make of lifters, rockers or push rods your using, make sure the rockers are staying in or near the middle of the valve stem, through out the lift cycle, check lifter pre-load at manufacturers specs, different styles/types/brands require different hydraulic lifter plunger pre-load, requiring you to either shim the rocker shafts up or use a shorter push-rods or you can use adjustable rockers &/or custom length or style of push-rods, ball & cup style push-rods are the norm for adjustable style rockers adjustable rockers on Mopars or an adjustable style push-rods are also a very good idea, for using stock rockers when you've done a bunch of block &/or Head milling or multiple changes that will effect valve train geometry, especially if you have done a bunch of changes or have aftermarket, cam, springs, valves, heads or have done a bunch of mods, like milling heads/block or thicker or thinner heads gaskets etc.   Call Mancini Racing for lifters/rockers or go to Smith Brothers for custom length push-rods, for either hardened &/or different style ends for adjustable rockers, Good luck with your 71 440 build...

[justcruisin]

I agree, adjustables are the way to go if engine mods are done. Lash can be set properly.

I used Hylift Johnson lifters in my 440 (71 r/t also) and they perform great. A little noisy, kicks up a rumbling noise but it could be the cam (xe275hl) and may be the same with any lifters. The johnsons are designed with the oil feed to be above the oil gallery when the cam is heading towards the top of the lobe.

[71green go]

Here is the thread with all I ended up doing.....

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,67390.0.html

Thanks for your comments!!

Steve

[b5blue]

Steve I'm ordering a set of adjustable pushrods from Smith Brothers for my 440 soon. (800-367-1533) It's more of a pain to adjust then rockers but 100.00's less than ANY other option I found.  I only have a few noisy lifters right now with all stock Mopar valve train, but they will pay off later if I change heads.

[Challenger340]

There are only 2 North American Lifter Manufacturers left, Eaton and Johnson Topline.

No matter whose "Box" you are buying, Comp, Lunati, Crane, blah, blah, you will invariably be getting lifters re-boxed from one of the above.
No way to know whose lifters, are in what box...

What you should be MOST concerned about, is the fact that one of the above Manu's(EATON) is re-boxing Chinese offshore garbage Lifter bodies, then re-selling to whoever, that will NOT hold Cam/Valvetrain stability, on low production applications like BB Mopars, because, it is not cost effective to produce them.

Insist upon Topline Johnson, call them DIRECTLY if you have to.

I've been buying flats of 144 at a time because of some VERY unpleasant Dyno experiences.

[71green go]

  Wow glad I asked......thanks for that info!!

[Chryco Psycho]

I agree Johnson lifters are the only ones to use . 

[charger Downunder]

i got a set of Clevite lifters made in the USA on the box no probs with them.

[Budnicks]

There are only 2 North American Lifter Manufacturers left, Eaton and Johnson Topline.

No matter whose "Box" you are buying, Comp, Lunati, Crane, blah, blah, you will invariably be getting lifters re-boxed from one of the above.
No way to know whose lifters, are in what box...

What you should be MOST concerned about, is the fact that one of the above Manu's(EATON) is re-boxing Chinese offshore garbage Lifter bodies, then re-selling to whoever, that will NOT hold Cam/Valvetrain stability, on low production applications like BB Mopars, because, it is not cost effective to produce them.

Insist upon Topline Johnson, call them DIRECTLY if you have to.

I've been buying flats of 144 at a time because of some VERY unpleasant Dyno experiences.

Thanks that's very good info to know... I didn't Know Eaton was using Chinese crap seems too many mnfgrs are doing that sort of thing nowadays...

[FLG]

Theres a thread on moparts with the xontact info to purchase johnson lifters. Idfind it but im on my phone and its a pain. Got em for my 440 nicely pruced too

[71green go]

Theres a thread on moparts with the xontact info to purchase johnson lifters. Idfind it but im on my phone and its a pain. Got em for my 440 nicely pruced too

Found that thread but seems it is removed?......wont open


Anyone know best place to buy non adjustable rockers?

[Budnicks]

Theres a thread on moparts with the xontact info to purchase johnson lifters. Idfind it but im on my phone and its a pain. Got em for my 440 nicely pruced too

Found that thread but seems it is removed?......wont open


Anyone know best place to buy non adjustable rockers?

Mancini Racing, Mopar Performance parts #P24529743 set

[71green go]

Wow the cost of building a motor adds up quick.......

So thank you for your replies........But is there an affordable Adjustable rocker arm assembly available?....

I ended up buying thru my local speed shop a set of Comp cams Hydraulic lifters....they were affordable and in stock....Now I need to just complete the rest of the valve train

Steve

[Budnicks]

Wow the cost of building a motor adds up quick.......

So thank you for your replies........But is there an affordable Adjustable rocker arm assembly available?....

I ended up buying thru my local speed shop a set of Comp cams Hydraulic lifters....they were affordable and in stock....Now I need to just complete the rest of the valve train

Steve

ISKY or CRANE ductile iron still not cheep... You will need cup & ball style push rods also... I think the PRW adj. roller rockers will work with std. style push-rods... I have never used them & can't swear buy the, durability, quality or value...

[71green go]

 A quick online search ......shows PRW sets at $450 plus tax plus shipping....ouch

When I had the motor rebuilt I assumed I would be reusing the factory Non adjustable rocker arm assemblies.......but as you start to do final assembly I questioned that

Is it wrong to just reuse the factory stuff ?.........or will it cause me issues...........as my block was decked, the heads were shaved......

so do I throw away the factory stuff at this point and just spend the money?.....and also buy the new pushrods

thanks

[Budnicks]

You can shim the rocker shafts up, to compensate for the machine work, buy a adjustable push-rod & check the lifter pre-load rocker valve alignment, make sure the valve stays in the middle part of the valve stem through the lift cycle, if the stock length push-rod it's too short it will vary a ton going too close to the edges, then if need be order a set of custom length push rods to spec, or shim the shafts accordingly... 0.010" isn't a big deal but 0.020"-0.030" can start to effect valve train geometry, check your camshaft/lifter mfgr. recommendations on pre-load, to see what the proper lifter pre-load should be... Smith Brothers Push-Rods is a great place to get the custom length push-rods, if needed...  

[71green go]

thanks Budnicks......

I think I am over my head with this engine stuff......I love the body work part and most of the mechanicals....but this is not my cup of tea..

I should have let my Engine guy do the whole motor....I just thought I would save myself some $$$ and do rest myself.....

[justcruisin]

Don't get to scared to have a go, do your homework, lots of reading and research, the net is a great place to get info, especially on dodgecharger.com. There are some guys on here that have invaluable knowledge and are only to happy to share it. Get a solid understanding of what you are doing and how things work before you buy parts or do something your not sure of. Don't forget - all you need to do is ask.

[71green go]

Thanks everyone....

I am looking at the same rocker assemblies Nacho bought.......the 1.5 PRW steel roller assemblies....priced around $386 complete

I also see allot of proform assemblies on Ebay...are these just over seas junk?.....these are around $200...

Or maybe these?.....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BB-Mopar-Chrysler-440-Stainless-Steel-Shaft-Mount-Roller-Rocker-Arms-1-5-Ratio-/110758519588?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item19c9b8e324

[71green go]

Well...done allot of reading on threads here........
you get what you pay for i guess,,,,,,,,,,I will buy the crane gold rocker setup.......they are $525 at the local speed shop plus tax...so just shy of $600

I guess I will also need the push rods to go along with this setup

Sound like the way to go?

Steve

[b5blue]

Or.....160.00 for adjustable pushrods. 

[71green go]

Or.....160.00 for adjustable pushrods. 

What exactly are Adjustable pushrods?.......how do they adjust?

[Budnicks]

Or.....160.00 for adjustable pushrods.  

What exactly are Adjustable pushrods?.......how do they adjust?

They each have an THREADED adjustment about a 1/2" & lock nut on one end just below the 5/16" ball that rides in the rocker, to get proper lifter pre-load or valve lash, lengthen them if you need less valve lash or more lifter pre-load or you can shorten them, if you need more valve lash or less lifter pre-load, make sure the adjuster portion, is up towards the rocker side of the push-rods, or it would be impossible to adjust, while installed... Check Smith Brothers Push-Rods with 5/16" tips in both ends, tell them your, engine block type {Chrysler wedge either a low deck B 361-383-400ci or a RB 413-426-440ci}, style of heads, style of rockers, valve spring pressure closed & open, camshaft style & gross lift {All should be on your camshaft specs. card}, they won't steer you wrong....

[FLG]

I dont like the sound of adjustable push rods or shimming rocker shafts. Buy a checking pushrod.measure and then buy your rods.