Factory markings, whadaya think?

[bull]

Dude, it's a D. The 69s had the B.

Believe it was platform-dependant, not model-year  

D is what is on all 68's I've seen. The B was found on most 69 B-Bodies. E-Bodies could have an F (70) or G (71) and sometimes an E as well.

That's interesting, but contradicts the initial pic which clearly shows more than a "D" and would appear to have been applied as a "B" which "wore" off with solvent or the rust (pattern) in the pic.  

I disagree. When I restored my diff housing I hit that yellow paint with all sorts of stuff like a wire wheel and various chemicals trying to get it off and nothing would touch it. Sandblasting is what finally took it off. Based on my experience a splash of solvent isn't going to take half a big B off a diff housing. IMO that pic does not "clearly" show a half-destroyed B. That extra paint could be anything from a paint run or a drip, etc. And why would solvent take the tough yellow paint off but leave the weaker white chalk that's in the same spot?

Hey Mick, how tall are those numbers? About an inch?

[Back N Black]

Dude, it's a D. The 69s had the B.

Believe it was platform-dependant, not model-year 

D is what is on all 68's I've seen. The B was found on most 69 B-Bodies. E-Bodies could have an F (70) or G (71) and sometimes an E as well.

That's interesting, but contradicts the initial pic which clearly shows more than a "D" and would appear to have been applied as a "B" which "wore" off with solvent or the rust (pattern) in the pic. 

What was on your car a "D" or a "B" ?

[XS29L9Bxxxxxx]

What was on your car a "D" or a "B" ?

We're not discussing my car, we're discussing the pics posted by the op.  

I have posted two other images - one an A Body and the other a B Body (Charger) and each have markings consistent with their platform.  


FWIW, you asked in post #3 of this thread: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,87292.0.html if I had any tips, and in this thread I do... So do you have anything to add to threads, or are you just on the site, stirring the pot  

[472 R/T SE]

What was on your car a "D" or a "B" ?

We're not discussing my car, we're discussing the pics posted by the op.  

I have posted two other images - one an A Body and the other a B Body (Charger) and each have markings consistent with their platform.  


FWIW, you asked in post #3 of this thread: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,87292.0.html if I had any tips, and in this thread I do... So do you have anything to add to threads, or are you just on the site, stirring the pot  

He's been on both sites if I'm not mistaken & has added a whole heck of a lot more than what's your favorite color on Wednesdays & why posts.  

Just sayin'...

[XS29L9Bxxxxxx]

What was on your car a "D" or a "B" ?

We're not discussing my car, we're discussing the pics posted by the op.  

I have posted two other images - one an A Body and the other a B Body (Charger) and each have markings consistent with their platform.  


FWIW, you asked in post #3 of this thread: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,87292.0.html if I had any tips, and in this thread I do... So do you have anything to add to threads, or are you just on the site, stirring the pot  

He's been on both sites if I'm not mistaken & has added a whole heck of a lot more than what's your favorite color on Wednesdays & why posts.  

Figured you might be along to swing on his sack...

If you disagree with my opinion, that's fine. However, when responding in a topic of facts, then you have options...

1) ignore and move along
2) post a fact as a rebuttal
3) post opinion and hope it is treated as fact
4) post something irrelevant

Anyways, you do not seem to be doing anything but opt. #4   Do you have facts, or just swinging through?  Just sayin'

[HeavyFuel]

Well this thread went downhill fast.......just looking to show off my work a little bit.

This pic should clear up exactly what mine looked like......no mysteriously "missing" part of a B.  Just sloppy contracted work from 1968.

Is it supposed to be a D?    I don't really care.  

I'm just trying to duplicate the marks.  

[maxwellwedge]

68 B-Body 8-3/4" rears are a D. Never seen one with a B.

My 69 A bodies don't have any large letter on the backside....and every other rear end marking is still on them a plain as day, They did have the "Circle-X".

What year is that A body pic you posted?

It is not a B that is half worn off.....which you seem to think on 2 or 3 examples.

69's got the B.

Next....

[XS29L9Bxxxxxx]

That's a much better angle of the op's diff. Thanks.

Interesting that one person in this thread who has owned their 68 for quite some time said their car had a "B" vs. a "D" How is that explained?

I'd have to see the year on the A Body. I don't want to guess  

[XS29L9Bxxxxxx]

Well this thread went downhill fast.......just looking to show off my work a little bit.
I'm just trying to duplicate the marks.  

I think your work is awesome! Thanks for posting the pics!!!

What isn't cool, are a couple of guys who seem to think because they have a few thousand posts together, they can pile on when they don't like a post or topic. They are not Moderators of the site, and probably for good reason. 

Thank you again for posting the pics. My comments are simply to share my observations and not put down your efforts 

[HeavyFuel]

Here's a couple that I'm not sure if I'll put back on.


The 737 means A/C car.......and I'm not putting the A/C on when she goes back together, so that would be kinda dumb to mark it 737.   Maybe I should put on the mark for non-A/C, but maybe that is a non-marking situation.  

I don't know what the "5" means.....so maybe that'll go on.



My firewall said "4 (circled) 2-2-68"   I suppose that is the final inspection/roll out date?   It was written on the top of the radiator support as well with an "OK".  My projected build date from the broadcast was about a week later, maybe they were running ahead of schedule.

[maxwellwedge]

5 = Automatic kick-down linkage.

A "0" (Zero) would denote no kick-down linkage (standard transmission)

[HeavyFuel]

These..........I'm not even going to attempt.    

[472 R/T SE]

XS29L9Bxxxxxx, you haven't contributed a whole lot to this forum that I've noticed, but yet when you finally state something as a matter of fact I took notice.  Maybe it's all the "What's your favorite year?" questions?  

Some of the members' here I have a ton of respect for & their word is the gospel as far as I'm concerned.  You took a shot at one of them so I responded.  It wouldn't have mattered who it was.  

3-4 years from now some newbee might pop off at you like that & I would do the same.  I also realize you don't want any favors from me but you get the point.



Heavy, that's heavy man.  I took a bunch of photos of mine but never got that far.  Maybe some day, I always got Curtis to dial me in.  Curtis is a tough act to follow, but you're doing a fine job of it.

If you plan on the lettering on the firewall, you'll have to make sure it's on top of the runs.  It doesn't seem like it matters what year, they all have runs right there or rag marks.

[HeavyFuel]

5 = Automatic kick-down linkage.

A "0" (Zero) would denote no kick-down linkage (standard transmission)

I'll buy that......mine's an auto.   So I'll put that marking on.

[HeavyFuel]

XS29L9Bxxxxxx, you haven't contributed a whole lot to this forum that I've noticed, but yet when you finally state something as a matter of fact I took notice.  Maybe it's all the "What's your favorite year?" questions?  

Some of the members' here I have a ton of respect for & their word is the gospel as far as I'm concerned.  You took a shot at one of them so I responded.  It wouldn't have mattered who it was.  

3-4 years from now some newbee might pop off at you like that & I would do the same.  I also realize you don't want any favors from me but you get the point.



Heavy, that's heavy man.  I took a bunch of photos of mine but never got that far.  Maybe some day, I always got Curtis to dial me in.  Curtis is a tough act to follow, but you're doing a fine job of it.

If you plan on the lettering on the firewall, you'll have to make sure it's on top of the runs.  It doesn't seem like it matters what year, they all have runs right there or rag marks.

You're right on, there....I had plenty of runs on the firewall.   But the new paint job should be nicer that that, I'm not taking it that far as to replicate runs.   Well, maybe on one part.    Guess which one?

[472 R/T SE]

When I rechromed the bumper on my blue '70 Charger & done up the grill I had this crazy idea of repainting the radiator support.  Another notorious area for runs.

Have you ever tried to duplicate runs?   

[HeavyFuel]

These marks held up pretty good during cleaning, so I left them as is.  (these are before shots)

[HeavyFuel]

When I rechromed the bumper on my blue '70 Charger & done up the grill I had this crazy idea of repainting the radiator support.  Another notorious area for runs.

Have you ever tried to duplicate runs?  

Don't laugh...but, yes.

This piece, whatever it's officially called, had tons of runs on it.  And you could tell exactly how it hung as it was painted.  So I did the same thing.

What the heck, it's under the hood.  

I was tempted to leave it alone, since it was pretty decent........but just a few too many scratches.

[bull]

All the discord caused one of my questions to get buried, so I'll ask it again. Mick, how tall are those white numbers on your housing? Are they about an inch?

That's interesting, but contradicts the initial pic which clearly shows more than a "D" and would appear to have been applied as a "B" which "wore" off with solvent or the rust (pattern) in the pic.  

And regarding the quote above, I'd still like an explanation as to how some errant chemical would eat the bottom of an alleged yellow painted B off but not the white chalk that still existed and would have been drawn over the top of where the bottom of that alleged B would have been. Also, your rust pattern/solvent theory does not explain why/how the bottom of the D is still present since it extends past that point and into the rusty area.

[HeavyFuel]

Gotta try to keep up with Bull.....


Before and after shots.

Your resto looks great! I haven't done the numbers on mine yet. Did you use a stencil set on yours?

Thanks.  

I anguished quite a while on what to do for the numbers, and eventually came up with something that worked pretty well.  I found a font in microsoft word (EngraverTextNCS, size 72) printed out what I wanted on paper, and took it to the local stamp shop .   I had them make up just the polymer part, and not mount it on an actual stamp, so I could cut the individual numbers and also get them into where I wanted to stamp.  Also, I think that route was cheaper, it cost me about 20 bucks.

It was kinda challenging to get the yellow axle stamp to look right, I'm not 100% happy with the way it turned out, but it'll work.  The polymer is firm, and squeezes the ink out from between the stamp and the metal if you push too hard, so if I did it again, I might ask for a spongey type material instead.  I had to try it a few times, so keep the damp rag ready for re-dos.   Font 72 might be just a little too big for the axle (239), but I think it worked well for the assy date (1 22).

I haven't measured the height, but it's about 3/4 inch.

[bull]

Thanks. Not wanting to be a pain but would you mind measuring them for me? I failed to do that when I took the pics of mine.

[maxwellwedge]

These..........I'm not even going to attempt.    

Those are the bore sizes A B C D   They would use these to mate pistons/rings to try and get the target piston to wall clearances.

[bull]

 

[HeavyFuel]

These..........I'm not even going to attempt.    

Those are the bore sizes A B C D   They would use these to mate pistons/rings to try and get the target piston to wall clearances.

So those spec marks would be under the block paint anyway, and wouldn't show on a nicely painted engine.

[HeavyFuel]

Thanks. Not wanting to be a pain but would you mind measuring them for me? I failed to do that when I took the pics of mine.

Mine are 13/16 " tall.   I think that is a good size for the gear housing, but in retrospect, I'd go just a tish smaller for the axle tube, based on the photos.  (I didn't measure mine before destruction, either)