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1970 383 no spark!

Started by RShaips, December 20, 2011, 06:51:05 PM

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RShaips

Hello, after a lifetime of GM products I recently bought a 1970 Super Bee with a 383 and 4 speed. The car had been sitting for 10 years and the coil was out of it. Anyway I bought a new coil, points, condenser, rotor and cap. I am still not getting any spark at the plugs and I don't think at the coil either. I have spark at the points with the key on if I touch them with a screwdriver. I am also getting power through my ballast resitor. What else could I check? I really want to hear this thing run! Thanks for the help!

BigBlockSam

I won't be wronged, I wont be Insulted and I wont be laid a hand on. I don't do these things to others, and I require the same from them.

  [IMG]http://i45.tinypic.com/347b5v5.jpg[/img

elacruze

Do you get spark from the coil while operating the points with a screwdriver?

If yes, check your point gap and dwell.
If no, check your point gap and dwell.

Seriously, if your points have power, and are closing between openings you should have coil spark. If you have coil spark but no plug spark, check your distributor phasing to be sure the rotor points to an output during spark.
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

maxwellwedge

There were a lot of bad condensers out there - Try the original one or another brand.

RShaips

I had all the same problems before I changed everything. I don't think its a condenser. I can't tell if I have spark from the coil when I jump it with a screwdriver, the cap is off.

elacruze

put a long phillips screwdriver in the cap end of the coil wire, and hold the shaft near some point on the engine to create a gap. Then test. You should get a nice bright blue spark. If you don't, you'll have to go on search and destroy. Check coil polarity, resistance, capacitor, etc.
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

RShaips

I am not getting any spark out from the distributor. Everything is tight and all parts are new. Is there anything in the distributor itself that could be causing this? Thanks

firefighter3931

Male sure the tab on your rotor is making contact with the coil terminal on the cap. I've seen a few over the years that needed to be "bent up" to make proper contact. Good luck !



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

RShaips

I've already bent it up but I will check it again. Thanks