So how easy can I make my Charger start up all the time?

[WH23G3G]

I'm sure the Thermoquad I have on there now is most of my problem for this concern. But I can't imagine these cars being this difficult to get going back in 1973. Maybe it will change once I have someone who knows what they're doing adjust and check the carb. But I've talked to some guys at car shows running other 70s muscle cars and Mopars that say they can get in and fire it up and go anywhere anytime still with stock restorations. Is it the carb or the ignition that really makes this thing easy to start. I know it won't start up without pressing the gas pedal in but having to do it so much after it sits a couple days. What about upgrading to a totally new carb?

[Iron Chef]

Have it completely rebuilt and adjusted by someone who is thoroughly familiar with it and you'll see a world of difference.

If my 440 or 383 sit for a long time, it takes some cranking to get them to fire.  After that, they start right up.

[Cooter]

I gotta feeling no matter how many times you rebuild that carb, the start up after a couple days will always be there. It has to do with the amount of Ethanol (Alcohol) in the fuel. Fuel inj. cars don't have this problem, as soon as you hit the key, the electric pump primes the injectors. unless you install an inline 6 PSI pump, and prime the carb, you'll probably always see this problem.

[y3chargerrt]

Carb rebuild and install a mini starter. That way it cranks faster and helps with start up.

[charger Downunder]

maybe you have a worn fuel pump push rod.?

[71bee]

Thermo-quads are my specialty: http://www.ebay.com/itm/110827545175?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649
If you need a re-build, let me know. I charge $150 (includes shipping.) it will look & run better than new when I am finished with it.

FWIW: The watered down fuel we're using these days could be a big part of your hard starting.

[Paul G]

Back in the day my old 318's, when warm, would start just by tapping the key. I could have the engine running and be in drive before the door slammed shut. My buds new to get in quick, once my ass hit the seat we were rolling, lol. No way they would do that today. I blame the fuel. My 360 still starts quickly when warm, just turn the key, a couple of cranks and it's running. I run a Holley now. Still no where near what it used to be like.

[Paul G]

If your having cold start issues make sure your choke is right.

[bordin34]

My all original 74 318 Valiant would start instantly when warm, literally by barely bumping over the starter. When cold it would instantly start up but would like to occasionally stall.
My rebuilt Holley 4bbl 400 would also start with just a bump, except randomly it would take a couple cranks.
But after a couple days of sitting both had to be cranked a bit to get fuel to the carb.

[tubedriver]

Would a solenoid type fuel pump work inline between fuel pump and tank, to help fill the carb before starting? Would the mechanical pump pull fuel thru the pump after startup?

[BigBlockSam]

If my 440 or 383 sit for a long time, it takes some cranking to get them to fire.  After that, they start right up

[NHCharger]

I bought new Edelbrock's for both my Chargers since both had some crappy carb's when I bought them. With both (one a 383, one a 318) I need to pump the gas pedal a dozen time on a cold start after they have been sitting for more than a week. Neither had a choke, once I installed a manual choke on the 318 it made a world of difference on the start up. Still had to do the initial pumping, but once it started it would idle during warm up without playing with the throttle.
I agree with Cooter on the crappy gas being a problem.

[64dartgt]

Ditto here.  Although my electric choke is a joke.  Doesn't seem to work at all...but I have had bigger fish to fry.  Pump a dozen times before starting is the norm, even with super unleaded.

[AirborneSilva]

I have a holley 750 on my recently built 383, one pump and it fires right up, no choke connected either.  If I let it sit for 3 or 4 weeks it is a bit harder to get it going but not much.

[WH23G3G]

Ok I've noticed since I've gotten my Thermoquad 6321S back from being rebuilt. It seems to start easier so far, but I noticed the fuel line to inlet is dripping a drop every few seconds. I was worried about that when changing carbs because I knew it would leak. These are brand new lines from Fine Lines I think so it shouldn't be the lines. Is it ok to wrap some teflon around the threads? It seems to idle a whole lot more stable too, not so much fluctuation in RPM.

[71bee]

Ok I've noticed since I've gotten my Thermoquad 6321S back from being rebuilt. It seems to start easier so far, but I noticed the fuel line to inlet is dripping a drop every few seconds. I was worried about that when changing carbs because I knew it would leak. These are brand new lines from Fine Lines I think so it shouldn't be the lines. Is it ok to wrap some teflon around the threads? It seems to idle a whole lot more stable too, not so much fluctuation in RPM.

definitely. I always send my carbs out with teflon tape wrapped around the fuel inlets. aint nothin' wrong with a little preventive maintenance my friend!  

[autodynamics]

I would sell it and buy a new charger....

[bill440rt]

I had an original Carter AVS carb restored/rebuilt about 12 years ago, came back looking like NOS. Once I get gas up to it, that car will start with no problem. That is with a stock starter, points ignition, etc.

A hard start problem on a old car that sits is relatively normal. It takes a few cranks to get gas pumped back up to the carb. (3-4 cranks, maybe?)

I wholeheartedly agree with the aforementioned posters. Today's gas is crapola. 

[ODZKing]

Thermo-quads are my specialty: http://www.ebay.com/itm/110794688256?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

If you need a re-build, let me know. I charge $150 (includes shipping.) it will look & run better than new when I am finished with it.

Just wanted to post of a good experience.
I just had my TQ serviced by a 71Bee and he did a fabulous job. Can't recall if I stumbled upon him here or over at the third gen site but Jeff (71Bee) did an outstanding job on it.
I have not tried it yet, but if it runs as good as it looks, it will be great. Great guy to work with, good turnaround and very reasonable. I am very pleased.
TY, Jeff.

[71bee]

Thermo-quads are my specialty: http://www.ebay.com/itm/110794688256?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

If you need a re-build, let me know. I charge $150 (includes shipping.) it will look & run better than new when I am finished with it.

Just wanted to post of a good experience.
I just had my TQ serviced by a 71Bee and he did a fabulous job. Can't recall if I stumbled upon him here or over at the third gen site but Jeff (71Bee) did an outstanding job on it.
I have not tried it yet, but if it runs as good as it looks, it will be great. Great guy to work with, good turnaround and very reasonable. I am very pleased.
TY, Jeff.

Thanks for the positive Bob. glad to hear you got your Thermo-quad back. it should run like a champ when you get 'er dialed in. let me know if you need any help.

sorry for the highjack guys. 

[Brock Lee]

My car came with the original 2 bbl carb that was really worn out and tired. But it fired up every time, even sitting for weeks. I put a new Edlebrock 4 bbl on it and I have to pump it a dozen times, even if it sits a couple days.

[404NOTFOUND]

I agree, new or rebuilt carbs make a huge difference. My car is a real crack start most of the time with the new Holley. I have finally heard enough bad about ethanol to make me switch from Sunoco 94 with ethanol to Shell 91 with no ethanol. Does that mean I'm now running good gas or is it still crap?

[Chryco Psycho]

It does not hurt to go through the ign as well , not sure if you are running points or electronic but the gap is critical with both , .008 for electronic , make sure the coil & wires are in good condition & good plugs gapped properly , we found the more you spent on plugs the more HP it cost the engine so just simple Champion or Autolite is what I use . High output coil  & good spiral core wires .
The fule is definatly a problem , it evapoates very quickly , blocking the heat crossover in the intake makes a big difference & most of these cars are not driven in cold weather anymore . The Fel Pro 1214 B engine & 1215 RB engine block the heat crossover port .

[B5charger]

I've got the same problem with my 318 2bbl.  After a week or so it takes a dozen cranks to start.  I'm convinced it's the fuel.  I've heard guys talking about a carb spacer to help move things a little further from the heat.  Wonder if this would work?

[FLG]

IMO, dont use teflon tape on the threads unless you get one specifically impervious to gasoline...the white one will just get eaten. Best thing to use is pipe thread compound.