headers glowing red

[nvrbdn]

ok, the motor ran after a rebuild, just not good. pulled motor out and found the timing chain they installed was sloppy. while i had it out, thought the mopar purple cam and lifters would be a nice touch. a buddy came over and dialed the cam in. i finally get the motor ready to start.fired it up today and it seemed to be running decent. ran it up to a nice high idle and walked in back to listen to the pipes. when i looked under the hood the headers were glowing. im running a 383/30 over, a 650 double pumper,electronic ignition. the motor hadnt overheated.im trying not to say "am i retarded" knowing what responses i could get. is this all timing, fuel?  thanks

[elacruze]

Retarded timing. Try for about 14-18 initial and 30 total at idle.

[nvrbdn]

thanks, i will advance that tomorrow.

[doctor4766]

Some like their headers glowing

[Chryco Psycho]

I have seen this before during break in runs running at 2000 rpm for 1/2 hr , it can be timing or lean fuel mix

[HPP]

I'm surprised no one has offered bright orange as a ceramic coating yet.

[nvrbdn]

now i ran the motor for 15 min. is that long enough to break in the cam? i have heard different opinions on this, but most have said 15-20 min at 2000. i was guessing about the 2000 but assume i was in the ball park. i also reved it up a few times. should it be done again?

[ACUDANUT]

I have seen this before during break in runs running at 2000 rpm for 1/2 hr , it can be timing or lean fuel mix

I agree.
A 650 Carb is too lean...A big blocks needs a 750.

[elacruze]

I have seen this before during break in runs running at 2000 rpm for 1/2 hr , it can be timing or lean fuel mix

I agree.
A 650 Carb is too lean...A big blocks needs a 750.

Carb size has nothing to do with jetting.

[nvrbdn]

ok, im not real big on alot of this stuff so take me to school. i need advanced timing more jetting, and what octane should i be running? i can take things apart and put them together, but figuring jetting and all that. im gona have to find me a guru.

[Chryco Psycho]

If it survived the break in run it should be fine , redoing the break in now will not help .
the point is there is no direct oiling of the cam , it depends on oil running down off the heads& oil being sprayed up from the crank & rods to keep it lubricated .
As soon as the engine is running & up to speed I immediatly set float levels on the carb if possible , advance the timing until it runs best & start adjusting mixture screws to help balance A/F ratio for the break in .

[Chryco Psycho]

Agreed , the carb size has nothing to do with jetting but I also agree a 750 would be a better choice for a 383
I generally leave the vacuum advance disconnected use a 20 -22 degree curve & run the inital timing between 14-16 * & total timing around 36 *
set the mixtures at idle so it runs best then run it up to 2000 rpm & adjust the mix again , if it runs better with the mixture screws turned out your jetting is lean , or if it is better with them turned in the jetting is rich  .

[elacruze]

ok, im not real big on alot of this stuff so take me to school. i need advanced timing more jetting, and what octane should i be running? i can take things apart and put them together, but figuring jetting and all that. im gona have to find me a guru.

For cam break in you should run the engine 1500-2500 RPM for 5-10 minutes at least. You will have to hold the throttle open some to do this. Meanwhile, have the timing light ready beforehand and set the timing so you have 30* plus vacuum-that may be as high as 45*. Too much timing while free-revving won't hurt anything but you have to spend the time with rpm up to get the cam happy. Don't worry about the jetting until afterwards. You will be able to find a happy timing curve for 91 octane but you may have to send the distributor out for recurving. Jetting is mostly trial-and-error unless you have a dyno handy, but as long as the spark plugs are something less than black and you have no knock you won't hurt the engine. Dialing in your jetting takes a while, and is secondary to getting the timing right.
Worry first about the cam break-in, then about advancing the timing or retarding it some if it pings under load.

[nvrbdn]

the cam had the breakin lube on it. it fired up and died a couple times. you could definately hear the oil dripping back through the engine when she died. fired it up with a little turn of the dist. ran for a few seconds and took it up to a high idle and let it run. the exhaust sounded great. guess ill put a light on it later tonight and see where i sit.

[nvrbdn]

ok, i have a pertronix flame thrower #d142811 mopar dist "no vacuum" red male cap. it has the mechanical advance adjustment.  is this wrong for my set up? do i need the vacuum model? it has springs and limiters for 12=16=20 degrees.(none installed) guess i shoulda held on to that dual point huh. i do have the original point system vacuum advance dist.

[ACUDANUT]

I have seen this before during break in runs running at 2000 rpm for 1/2 hr , it can be timing or lean fuel mix

I agree.
A 650 Carb is too lean...A big blocks needs a 750.

Carb size has nothing to do with jetting.

I never said anything about "jets"..I just think his 650 is too small.

[nvrbdn]

would a regular 750 holly do? that should rich it up.

[Chryco Psycho]

sounds like a good distributor , no need for vacuum advance at all , set the limiter for 20* & set total advance at 36* , your idle should be 16* , the idle advance is less important than the total advance under power

[Chryco Psycho]

750 Holley is a good choice , 3310 is a very sim0le reliable carb , the newer 770 Avenger or 750 HP series are better

[nvrbdn]

thanks alot chryco. and thanks for all helping me. ill keep the dist. also have the flame thrower coil to match. buying the holly 750 and will get this all put together this weekend.

[elacruze]

ok, i have a pertronix flame thrower #d142811 mopar dist "no vacuum" red male cap. it has the mechanical advance adjustment.  is this wrong for my set up? do i need the vacuum model? it has springs and limiters for 12=16=20 degrees.(none installed) guess i shoulda held on to that dual point huh. i do have the original point system vacuum advance dist.

This question will get a hundred different answers...the 'right' curve/vacuum if any will be dictated by your engine. Typically if you have decent vacuum at idle and part-throttle drivability is ok you can benefit from some vacuum advance.

My own engine likes vacuum advance because I require 30* advance at idle but only 16* @ 2700 under load. 16* at idle runs, but is noticeably rougher and adds some coolant temp.

[flyinlow]

My black painted Hooker headers where running a dull red at the first turn by the end of the cam breakin. It was dark and you could see a little glow, did not bother the engine.

[ACUDANUT]

Holley 750 is a great carb.  One more problem you will be facing with those headers, will be your starter burning out.

[XS29L]

I had a set of cast iron manifolds glowing once , it was due to a vacuum leak. The carter avs on my motor had a worn throttle shaft. Switched to a 3310 holley end of story.

[Bob T]

Some like their headers glowing

Hey Doc, you notice that the butterflys are closed? Apparently the photographer was too scared to go in the dyno romm while it was running so they shut it down to let him get the shot.  . I have it framed and up on my wall 

Good info Chryco too, handy for reference thanks