1969 B-body A/C - Heater box overhaul , wanna follow along ?

[JThotrodjunkie]

KILLER!  I am doing a 1968 Charger,  Quick story, my dad passed away 4 years ago, he had a summer house on Pender Island here in B.C., he went to check the property line and fell off the cliff to his death.  He inspired me to build cars and even built me a shop. He was never into cars himself, he was highly educated and a lawyer but he saw my interest and helped me start.  I will never forget when he showed me the movie Bullit, I always wanted a Black 68 after that!  I finally went back to the island last year and ran into the guy that found him (search and rescue) we talked I went to his house and he had a black 1968 Charger factory a/c major project, what are the odds!  Initially he did not want to sell it but he just felt like I needed the car, I bought it several months later...
I am so grateful that you took the time to put this together! Thanks!

[nvrbdn]

welcome jthotrod. good luck with the project. when you get time, post a pic up on the show us your charger thread.

[JThotrodjunkie]

I will thanks. Just on holiday till sept 23. I couldn't forget about the Charger Lol!  I want to restore my box, it is actually already apart, I need new heater cores for sure, I need to find a good place to buy them. I was wondering if I should use my evap core, it looks ok, can I test it? and the heater control valve should I replace it?  I really want to do this once. 

[Dino]

I will thanks. Just on holiday till sept 23. I couldn't forget about the Charger Lol!  I want to restore my box, it is actually already apart, I need new heater cores for sure, I need to find a good place to buy them. I was wondering if I should use my evap core, it looks ok, can I test it? and the heater control valve should I replace it?  I really want to do this once. 

The heater valves are pricey.  You would have to send yours in to have it restored as nobody makes these anymore BUT for $10 you can buy a new seal at napa and fix it yourself.  I'm still struggling a bit with mine.  It no longer leaks but I can't shut it off, heat is coming in all the time so I had to disconnect it.  Here's my resto thread.
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,85791.0.html

You can take the cores to a shop to have them tested or you can seal the tubes and dunk them in a bath of water, if you don't see bubbles you should be okay.  I still would take it to a shop to have tested though.  You can buy the cores brand new as well.  Around $60 for the heater, $260 for the a/c.

[fy469rtse]

Ok, now that you have the 2 cases assembled. Re-install your tested and cleaned actuators and linkages.
They look more more complicated than they are, really.

The one actuator is held to the linkages with a 3/16" spring washer clip, it can be installed after all the linkages are on( I did it this way and took some creative thinking to push it on over the stud)So, I suggest installing it before putting the linkages on the box.


My vacuum harness was still nice and flexable, so I cleaned and reused them. Now is a good time to install the heater core to firewall tube with 4 new #8 head head screws .  Hopefully once you have them all on, it looks like this.
great work, been past this point, and its installed in car but i have found it hard to follow the factory diagrams regarding vacum, can you help with a simple diagram regarding restrictors in vacum tubes and which one is tee'd off to the switch that with defrost cycles air con, started with a rolling shell and all this was missing, will very much app the help , left this alone for a while now and moved on to other things because of frustration, thanks in advance

[fy469rtse]

geez, just realised that you gave me an answer to my restrictors and where the tee goes, thanks will finish this part off now

[cdr]

thankyou GTX6970,JUST did mine today,your thread gave me the courage to GET IT DONE .

charlie

[cdr]

complete reseal kit for 68,69 heater valve

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DMT-68-69-B-Body-AC-A-C-RANCO-Heater-Water-Control-Valve-Repair-Kit-Seal-/360657138408?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item53f8d732e8

[sanders7981]

Bill,

  Those ferrules look pretty new, where can I get a set?  Mine were pretty hard to get off and I destroyed one in the process. 

[66 chrgr]

I'm working on the heater box for a 1966 Charger with A/C and this has been very helpful.  I broke the solder connection on one of the tubes with the ferrule.  One came off relatively easily but the other needed more coaxing and I broke it.  Thanks for the instructions.

Bill

[scatpack69]

I know it's been 2 yrs since this thread has been active, but a lot of pics are missing. I just pulled the hvac box out of my 69 Charger factory AC. Got it apart. Now to find all the parts to rebuild it.

[lukedukem]

I know it's been 2 yrs since this thread has been active, but a lot of pics are missing. I just pulled the hvac box out of my 69 Charger factory AC. Got it apart. Now to find all the parts to rebuild it.

Yep, me too. What happened to the pics? I sent the OP a message

Luke

[gtx6970]

No idea, where they went. Unless they fell off the board due to age .
I don't think I had them hosted somewhere else such as a picture hosting site

[lukedukem]

No idea, where they went. Unless they fell off the board due to age .
I don't think I had them hosted somewhere else such as a picture hosting site

I don't suppose you have the pics and could try to repost

Luke

[Troy]

The pictures were on:
home.fuse.net/billstoys/B-Body_AC-box/

Troy

[hjelmsd]

Since a few people are looking over this thread lately....

I have lost my linkage from the AC door to heater bypass valve.  If anyone has their system apart, or partially apart, can someone please tell me the length of the link and possibly take a photo of the link installed or uninstalled?  I think fabricating one from some wire/rod will work, but I am not certain of the length.

Thanks,
Scott

[johnarlitt]

What is the correct way to adjust or set vacuum door linkage after installation. john

[mike337]

Hopefully, someone following this thread will be able to assist.  Many moons ago, I took my 69 Charger apart to begin a restoration.

17 years later it is nearing completion, and I have a question on re-assembling the A/C ducting under the dash.

I have numerous parts, but have a sneaking suspicion that at least one of the is wrong, and that I'm missing a part of the ducting.

In the attached photos I have laid out what I have and am looking for confirmation of:

#1 - Connection between Right dash vent (near glove box to the center register #2
#2 - Center register that is attached with 3 screws to the heater box
#3 - Hard plastic duct with oval section that passes through the dash frame support
#4 - Hard plastic and flexible hose that looks to be too long, and does not have an oval end

Is it #4 that is incorrect?

Mike

[WHITE AND RED 69]

Yep, #4 does not belong there. Everything else is correct. 

[mike337]

Here is a better shot of # 3 & #4.

Is it just a flexible hose (rectangular on one end and oval on the other) that connects #3 plastic duct to the dash vent on the driver's side?

Mike

[Bronzedodge]

Correct.  Sorry i didn't get back to your PM earlier Mike.  Yes, the drivers outboard vent has flex that attaches to the duct under the dash, different shapes at each end.

[rikubot]

Following. I'm looking to do mine with a very tight budget. Any pointers that would be important for me to follow? I've seen those repop cores that are supposed to use the new stuff but they are really expensive. I havent torn into mine yet so im not sure whats in store but the heater worked before I pulled it apart and judging by the condition of the rest of the car I'm assuming no mammals nested in it and its in decent shape...

[cdr]

I replace the heater core & the h valve inside the box. I reused my ac evap core, works great.

[rikubot]

So your core was in bad shape? I am not sure if I know enough to recognize the difference yet.

Might be a stupid question, but is this the h-valve?

[cdr]

When I 1st did it I used my old heater core, after about a month it started leaking so I had to take it all apart again to replace, that was not fun because now the dash assy was in the car, DO IT NOW