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'68 Grill Repair: Looking for solutions

Started by Surf Charger, December 07, 2011, 03:19:40 PM

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Surf Charger

Hey guys,

Wondering how many of you restore your '68 Grill? The problem I'm running into is that all mounting points (5 I believe) along the top of the plastic grill that connect to the top metal hood latch bracket, are cracked and broken due to age/brittleness. Is there anything out there that can repair plastic or at least provide an alternative to keeping it together?

Overall my grill is in perfect shape...just the top mounting points. Any tips on repairing this or alternative solutions are welcome.


WHITE AND RED 69

1969 Dodge Charger R/T
2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee 75th edition
1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1972 Plymouth Duster

Charger_Dart

I had the same thing on my 68 grill and found that there is a common toggle style drywall anchor that is the same thread as the bolts that go through to the grill u shaped clips. The drywall anchors have a much wider gripping area so they went beyond the broken plastic parts on mine. They have been in my grill now for over a year and have worked great. Simple, easy fix if that's what you are looking for.
68 Charger R/T & 68 Dart GT Convertible

elacruze

This stuff by Wurth is a two-part plastic epoxy, I was told it was developed specifically to replace broken mounting points on modern plastic bumper covers. In the RV shop I worked at, we used it for everything. I did actually use it once for replacing a broken mounting stud on a bumper surround-squirted, drilled, screwed in about a half hour and AFAIK it never broke off afterwards.

http://www.wurthusa.com/web/en/website/produkte_1/bodyshop/plasticrepairfiller/plasticrepairfiller.php
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

Surf Charger

QuoteThis stuff by Wurth is a two-part plastic epoxy, I was told it was developed specifically to replace broken mounting points on modern plastic bumper covers. In the RV shop I worked at, we used it for everything. I did actually use it once for replacing a broken mounting stud on a bumper surround-squirted, drilled, screwed in about a half hour and AFAIK it never broke off afterwards.

http://www.wurthusa.com/web/en/website/produkte_1/bodyshop/plasticrepairfiller/plasticrepairfiller.php

Any idea where I can buy this stuff? Can't seem to find any retailers and the main website doesn't seem to list a price or way to buy?



elacruze

Quote from: Surf Charger on December 07, 2011, 10:42:54 PM
QuoteThis stuff by Wurth is a two-part plastic epoxy, I was told it was developed specifically to replace broken mounting points on modern plastic bumper covers. In the RV shop I worked at, we used it for everything. I did actually use it once for replacing a broken mounting stud on a bumper surround-squirted, drilled, screwed in about a half hour and AFAIK it never broke off afterwards.

http://www.wurthusa.com/web/en/website/produkte_1/bodyshop/plasticrepairfiller/plasticrepairfiller.php

Any idea where I can buy this stuff? Can't seem to find any retailers and the main website doesn't seem to list a price or way to buy?


By distributors only, I think. I've always had the Wurth guy come by in a truck like Snap-On.

http://www.wurthusa.com/web/en/website/unternehmen_1/contact/contactus.php
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

MoparSam

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2646894&Main=2645697

Found that link through the search on this site. I am doing this method and it is working out very well. I used it to make the mounting points on mine where they were busted off. When it sets up, it is not as brittle as the old plastic and i can hold the grill by the mounting points and no breakage.
'68 Charger R/T 440
'74 D-100 Adventurer 318
'75 Ramcharger 360 4x4 4 Speed
'78 Ramcharger 360 4x4 4 Speed
'67 Dart GT (Soon 440)
'05 Ram 1500 4.7
1/2 '71 Dart

elacruze

Quote from: MoparSam on December 08, 2011, 08:15:21 AM
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2646894&Main=2645697

Found that link through the search on this site. I am doing this method and it is working out very well. I used it to make the mounting points on mine where they were busted off. When it sets up, it is not as brittle as the old plastic and i can hold the grill by the mounting points and no breakage.

Sweet!

I love this place.
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

twodko

I had a couple broken top tabs on my 69 too. The fix I did was to use PlastiFix(fantastic stuff) and some thin aluminum tabs. I fabricated these alum tabs to slide inside the tabs and up against the top of the tabs. I drilled holes in each to match the tab holes them epoxied them in place. On those tabs that I had broken pieces of, I used the PlastiFix to fuse them back together, lightly sanded the repair and reinstalled the assembly. This has worked flawlessly and the alum tabs are invisible. Good luck.
FLY NAVY/Marine Corps or take the bus!

Surf Charger

Can any of you guys provide pictures of your plastic fixes? I'd like to see some examples.  :2thumbs:

vancamp

if you can get a piece of grille plastic off another car or a piece of the same type plastic you can cut into little chips put in a glass or metal container with some MEK and it will turn the plastic into a putty like substance that you can patch the original part with once it dries the MEK evaporates out and leaves you with hard plastic again.


68blue

The grill is made of ABS plastic and responds well to common plastic model glue. I had cracked mounts and other parts in my 68 grill and fixed them with it.


Brent69

My '69 grille had the same problem as yours - broken mounts.  I used Plastex (http://plastex.net/).  I was skeptical at first because their website and videos are so cheesy, but the stuff works great.  I had some mounts that just had cracks and small chunks missing and I was able to fill those in.  One piece had too much stuff missing so I cut a good one off a donor grill and used Plastex to glue it on. 

If you buy the kit, it also comes with a molding bar that allows to create molds for missing parts.  I did this for one of the headlight doors that was missing a piece right where the screws go.  The pic I included is before drilling the hole and sanding.

Anywhere I had hairline cracks, I carved a valley right on top of the crack using a Dremel tool and filled it in with Plastex and then sanded it.  It gave it structural integrity where the cracks where.  Great stuff!


Surf Charger

Just curious as to what you guys do regarding repainting the gray part of the grill? What color to use? Same with the headlight surround....what color do you use and where do you buy the paint?




WHITE AND RED 69

I used argent silver wheel paint from eastwood on mine.   :cheers:.


http://www.eastwood.com/
1969 Dodge Charger R/T
2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee 75th edition
1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1972 Plymouth Duster

Surf Charger

Quote from: WHITE AND RED 69 on December 15, 2011, 08:14:20 PM
I used argent silver wheel paint from eastwood on mine.   :cheers:.


http://www.eastwood.com/

That does look nice. I had a silver color...but it was just way too bright. I liked the original dull grey but can't seem to find a paint to match.

Surf Charger

Anyone know where I can find the following hardware for the '68 Grill?

Looking for the T shaped screws to hold the trim onto the front of the grill, the grommets that go along the top and bottom of grill assembly to hold it into the metal housing, and the body bolts/metal pre-threaded clips.


Fred

Try .............
Dante's Mopar Parts Contact Information:
376 Berlin Cross Keys Rd
Sicklerville, NJ 08081


Phone: (609) 332-4194

Fax: (856) 875-4332

Email: sales@dantesparts.com





Tomorrow is promised to no one.......drive your Charger today.

69DodgeCharger

I made my own replacement pieces out of thin gauge sheetmetal and glued them on with qwik set JB Weld with a very small self tapping screw also ran through the sides. Total price, about $4.00 total time 2-3 hours. They work perfect and are much stronger than the original plastic tabs. Hilllbilly repair? maybe. But nobody is ever going to see it anyways.
http://www.mypowerblock.com/profile/69DodgeCharger

The bugle sounds the charge begins. But on this battlefield no one wins.